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-- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full -
Re: The ghetto mod thread
My ghetto mod for this year must've been a cooling fan to cool myself because it was hot in here. I simply used an Allied AL-8400BTX PSU (the one I've repaired in the PSU section here) and a 92mm AVC 12v fan wired up on the PCI-E connector (at least it's worth something
) along with a jumper wire between green and black. (PS_ON and GND)
Main rig:
Gigabyte B75M-D3H
Core i5-3470 3.60GHz
Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5
16GB DDR3-1600
Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW
FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped)
120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB
Delux MG760 case
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
I wonder if my Coolmax PSU fix is ghetto enough... It this jury rig a kludge, bodge, or ghetto fix?
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1501352814
The two brown jumper wires were added by me to fix the burned track underneath.
If I had twisted the wires together and left them above the board, epoxied down or not, then I suppose it would count... LOLComment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
i draw the line at bodging psu's - i dont want to risk anything downstream.Comment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
A lot of these are calculated risks I suppose. Main reason why I went ahead and kludge/bodge fixed this is because this is in the primary circuit - if primary fails, everything is down, anyway - unlike if the control circuitry is bodged, then the output could go out of spec and cause downstream damage. The burned tracks were too weak to reuse so I had to use the solder to make up for the loss of the foil.
I figured that the main risk of repairing this is repeat insulation failure, and that I spent extra effort trying to ensure that it doesn't fail again. I'm not sure how others would have repaired this damage, or could have just treated this as a total loss/parts unit (which I was intending this PSU to be when I first got it).Comment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
i would have cut the burned section of pcb out, and rebuilt it with epoxy.
then probably lined or partially butchered the casing!Comment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
Go for it. Just beware that those rubber bands dry-rot and degrade very quickly. When I made that mod, I didn't know better. Luckily I didn't use the computer like that. I replaced the fan with a better one and got rid of the rubber band.
Exactly.
There's no guarantee you won't get a bad PSU even from a reputable manufacturer that manages to burn itself out and the rest of your equipment. With repaired PSUs, at least I know what was wrong and what I fixed and how I fixed it.
lolComment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
Here's one from yesterday/today. A vestel taken off the wall still with two HDMI cables plugged in.
I possibly should have looked on ebay for a board and I wasn't given the remote so haven't tested it yet.
I will be sealing the wires once I've tested the repair as they are bare strands of copper and not coated magnet wire.Attached FilesComment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
Maybe we need a different thread for bodge/kludge jobs and leave this one for the ghetto, I think that HDMI fix is too "professional" to be a "ghetto" fix (and perhaps my burned track fix too...)
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
Dang, I thought I've done some fine trace repairs, but never so many next to each other. I admire your patience for this one.
On that note regarding removing equipment with the wires still connected... I had a 17" CRT monitor that I forgot was plugged in the wall. So when I lifted it up and started moving it, all of a sudden the CRT pulled away from my hands and fell on the floor. Surprised the crap out of me when that happened. Luckily I have a carpeted floor so nothing broke. Also had a similar accident with the VGA cable plugged in another CRT monitor. But them D-SUB bastards are built tough and made to handle rough handling (lol
).
As for ghetto mods, I am working on a video card + fan upgrade for one of my old PCs. Just made a metal bracket to hold an 80 mm fan to the case where the add-on card screw to. Will take pictures when it's done.
Yeah, I thought about that too when I made the "Worthless/Pointless" repairs thread. I figured that since a lot of my ghetto repairs are worthless, I wouldn't need to... but now I see that we may need one indeed. In fact, you can see that a lot of the "mods" I posted here in the past are actually repairs.Comment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
Thank you for your kind words Momaka, it was you worthless/pointless repairs thread I was looking for, perhaps I should have tried harder (used search).
The repair probably took about an hour on and off, so pointless from a labour point of view vs cost of a replacement board maybe, but more an exercise in can it be done. Certainly quicker than waiting for a replacement board if I can find one.Last edited by diif; 08-20-2017, 01:38 AM.Comment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
You guys should see my (soon-to-be-old) work computer.A working TV? How boring!Originally posted by PeteS in CAComment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
T12 soldering iron stand.
ingredients:
1 weller iron stand - base section for weight.
1 joke stand from china.
1 pencil eraser
2 M5 screws.
Attached FilesComment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
it's actually more comfortable just throwing the iron onto a "V" instead of poking it into a spring!Comment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
Indeed. That's pretty similar to how I made the stand for my soldering station as well.
*Edit*
Looks like I even posted this a while back:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=290Last edited by momaka; 09-04-2017, 12:51 PM.Comment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
anyone remember wordless workshop?Attached FilesComment
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Re: The ghetto mod thread
Power Mac G4 Quicksilver PSU replacement
Original PSU failed, no power at all, and I didn't know how to fix them back then (6 years ago). So I took an ATX PSU and modified the connector's wiring.
And I added a laptop power brick (from a Compaq Armada 4120) to feed the +24V line (with 20V but it works) as I was using the original Apple display which doesn't have an external power connector. Before that the +24V was feeded by the +5VSB.Attached FilesOpenBoardView — https://github.com/OpenBoardView/OpenBoardViewComment
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I've got here an ECU 89661-42840 from an 03 Toyota RAV4. Got the usual transmission problem that is ECU related. Symptoms are not shifting as it supposed to, no shift etc. Turn the car off, wait a minute and back on and it will work again for a bit. I think she's in limp mode here or something.
Anyway... There are tons of those RAV4 that have this problem. My problem with it is, that it's a right steering import vehicle and the dealer can't read the ECU.
I went all over the ECU resoldering a whole stack of resistors, no problem. BUT I am stuck on resetting the transmission... -
I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.
For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772
It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177... -
I have here a Magnum IA.100 which belongs to my parents.
The unit powers on & when the relay kicks in, you get a pop from the speakers (this might sound weird but is usual behavior for this amp). However, you get nothing coming through it from any of the inputs & no pops and crackls from any of the controls.
Because of the sound from the speaker when the amp turns on I have assumed that the output section probably works but I could be wrong & I'm not sure how to test that side of things further.
What Ive done........01-01-2025, 01:26 PM -
Hi,
Anyone have knowledge about this component D3950 ( I suppose to be BD3950) , an application note or equivalent.
Thank you -
Copying DMI information from an old bios to a new one is difficult for some members, often they have no experience with a hex editor,or some that have tried find it too hard.There is an option to make things easier for those members so that they don`t need to post their own bios backup for the DMI copying.
Experienced bios modding members can help by posting in other threads the DMI offsets,macro script generated by the software and a download link to the software at softpedia mentioned in this guide,or post your macros in the comments here with a link to the bios request thread ....
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