I personally find most LCD monitors way too bright and often keep the backlight levels at 50% or less. I think I have only a few very old and tired LCDs where I have to keep the BL levels turned up to be able to see anything....
momaka
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Probably better for your eyes anyways, especially at night.
I personally find most LCD monitors way too bright and often keep the backlight levels at 50% or less. I think I have only a few very old and tired LCDs where I have to keep the BL levels turned up to be able to see anything.... -
Because these systems were some of the last to officially support Windows 98 / Win9x, and without being too problematic with it either. Sure there are newer boards that can be made to work with Win98 too... but SATA and PCI-E don't always play nice once you have those.
And if you wonder why anyone would want to have a Win9x rig... well, that one's a more complicated answer. But a big part of it is certainly for nostalgia reasons. A lot of us that are now in our late 40's, 30's, and even 20's, probably grew up with these systems. So for some, it's just trying to re-live your childhood....Leave a comment:
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Yup, that sounds about right.
My 2.8 GHz P4 HT seems to load YT pages about 1.5-2x faster than the Atom. I can also watch in 360p without stutter... or 480p on websites with the video embedded and no other heavy scripts to nibble on CPU cycles. The Atom, I can't even get it to show 360p video without stutter. Even 240p tend to be choppy. LOL!
Then again, I feel the sad part about this is how bloated websites have become these days.
Hmmm.. I also have a P3-933. Would be fun to compare it to the Atom when I get time. I suspect the P3 won't be that much slower, despite...Last edited by momaka; 06-07-2025, 12:40 PM.Leave a comment:
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Surge "protector" devices are over-rated anyways - that is, most electronics are damaged by the large EM pulses from nearby lightning strikes, particularly the generation of voltage on long external conductors (wires) on most electronics (e.g. signal cables.) Shielded wires tend to be affected a little less, but can still generate potential differences large enough to damage ICs if the lightning strike is very nearby. Also, most electronics have MOVs in their PSUs already, so the extra "whole house surge protection" is really not needed (nor very effective, since you want your...Leave a comment:
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Already posted the answer in this thread here:
[url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-power-supplies-and-power-supply-design/69972-help-needed-identify-diode-psu-fsp-hexa-500w#post3654312[/url]
TLDR (if link doesn't work for whatever reason): it's a 2 -Ohm fusible resistor. Use metal film type. Probably 1/2 Watt rating or more. Can use through-hole instead of SMD if that's all you have.
I don't think the resistance rating is too important, though. Probably anything in the range of 1 to 4.7 Ohms will work,...Leave a comment:
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Heh, good too see back another old-time BCN member here.
And even better to see/read a follow-up.
Not surprised that crappy TL cap failed while the other Rubycons are still OK, despite being 85C GP caps - goes to show how much better the old Japanese caps are.
I love "scrap" repairs like this.
Did something similar on a Samsung Syncmaster 19" LCD a few years back, using some Nichicon VR (85C caps) from a scrap CRT TV board. Brought the monitor back to life and one of my nephew took it for use with a desktop PC for school work. The monitor was a...Leave a comment:
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No schematic, but going by the model number, this looks like it's probably a HiPro/Chicony Power OEM PSU (for an HP?)
I have many P2507FWP and similar HiPro PSUs running in many machines, so can look up part number if you post some pictures of your PSU and also tell me which diode was damaged.Leave a comment:
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I don't have this exact PSU, but I have an FSP500-60APN, which appears to have the same 2315(2) PCB and layout.
On mine, R26 = 2R00... i.e. 2 Ohm resistor. Not sure of the power rating, but I would suggest you use at least 1/2 Watt -rated resistor, and it should be metal-oxide FUSIBLE type.
Since your TNY277 IC is dead, also check the state of electrolytic capacitor C47 (100 uF 35V, I think?) before powering up the circuit with a new TNY IC.Leave a comment:
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Presume you were talking about me.
Yes, I actually use both - 450W dishwasher heating element for "lighter" loads and a 700W/1400W mini toaster oven, with the 700W setting being my "medium power" level, and 1400W for when I actually want to test with a fairly "large" load on the PSU (100-120 Watts or less, and I'll explain why.) The idea is to keep the load at less 10% of the heating element's rating so that the voltage going to the PSU doesn't fall too much (below 100V), as otherwise APFC PSUs will turn off below that... so for a 1 kW or more heating...Last edited by momaka; 06-07-2025, 09:42 AM.Leave a comment:
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Wow, LOL
I bought an Atom-based small desktop PC (1.6 GHz single core with HT) by mistake a few months back - thought it would be a little more modern PC given the Windows 7 sticker and that the "seller" (poor gypsies trash picker) said it had Windows 10 on it. Of course as soon as I opened it home and saw the i915 chipset with its "mighty" heatsink larger than the one on the CPU, I knew I was in for trouble. On the plus side, at least it is operational. But boy, is it slow. The seller did not actually lie - this thing DID have Windows 10 installed on it....Leave a comment:
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Hard to say without seeing the board in person.
But given your other thread where you got a RX480 (or was it a 580) instead of a GTX 1080 and that both were from MSI, I think there is a small chance that it could be.
In particular, I can't remember if this was with MSI video cards from that era/age (I think it was)... but I remember there was one OEM where you could swap the back plates between the GTX1070 and 1080 without actually damaging or touching any of the warranty stickers, and the actual model of the card was stickered to the backplate rather than the card itself. At the time,...Leave a comment:
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Not exactly. According to the FK datasheet (the through-hole series, not the SMD ones), FK is supposed to have about 10-30% lower ESR than FC series. And if you compare some random caps from the two datasheets, you will see that FK's ESR is considerably higher than FM, but slightly lower than that of FC. So FK is a "middle" series between FC and FM, but really closer to FC than it is to FM.
Also, FR/FS series, depending on which particular cap you are comparing, tend to have slightly higher ESR than FM. The ripple current tends to be mostly the same, though, at least for any specific...Leave a comment:
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First, to answer the question in the topic (even though it turned out this cap wasn't the issue)... I would rate this as "safe", but *not* a good practice.
For starters, the cap is now placed right above a vertical heatsink, which means this cap will get even hotter than before... and I suspect the slight bulging you see on it is from too much heat (or possibly too much ripple current from the circuit, heating the cap internally.) So any extra heat for that cap would not be a good thing long term. Also, the long wires will increase the impedance to the cap - probably not enough...Leave a comment:
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Actually, I think there were a few Japanese ones that went as low as 47 uF. Forgot which brands and series, though.
Otherwise, I agree, I think Panasonic FC and FP series, along with United Chemicon LZA are the way to go, as those are all approved for automotive use (AEC-Q200 compliance.)
If the original caps are Nichicon PL, those are obsolete series now. Their current replacement is the PM series. I'd say replace them, because I've seen a few PL series start to show signs of "about to leak electrolyte from the bottom", though never seen any do it yet (not...Leave a comment:
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Going from memory here, FK is lower ESR/impedance than FC and probably better suited to replacing that Samyoung NXE cap.
That said, also consider FR, FM, and FS series from Panasonic, as those have even lower impedance and higher ripple current capability.
Similar alternatives from other Japanese brands are -
Nichicon: HE, HW, HV
Rubycon: ZLQ, ZLH, ZLG, ZL
United Chemicon: KY, KYB, KZE, KZH, KZMLeave a comment:
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KMG is UCC's general purpose series... but even these should be better than bad caps with 5+ Ohms of ESR.
Film caps (be it PP or PE) are pretty much always fine to use as replacements in places where low capacitance (under 1 uF) electrolytic caps resided before. Both PP and PE tend to have better high-frequency filtering than electrolytics do.Leave a comment:
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+1
The board damage indeed doesn't seem that bad to abandon repair of the original PSU.
Just remove all of the components that are connected to parts of the PCB that is burned, as that stuff is conductive. Then, populate the parts on a new universal PCB and run wires to the respective components / traces / points on the PCB of the original PSU.
See, for example, how [USER="9870"]everell[/USER] did it on an ATX PSU (small PCB to replace the primary side of the original 5VSB circuit) as show in his thread here:
[URL]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-power-supplies-and-power-supply-design/6131-bestec-atx250-12e-up-and-running[/URL]...Last edited by momaka; 05-26-2025, 02:40 PM.Leave a comment:
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Well, if the PSU is oscillating due to the very low ESR of the output caps, that could cause all sorts of interference, including to the video signal.
From what I remember looking up in datasheets, at least for a few particular sizes that were of interest to me at the time, ZLH had lower ESR/impedance listed than ZLQ... though both weren't that far off from each other. In fact, most of the ZL_ -Rubycon series appear to be a variation of the original ZL series, which themselves tend to be pretty low ESR.
For flyback-type PSUs, I'd say these are OK.
For older SMPSes,...Leave a comment:
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I thought I replied to this before, but maybe it was all in my head. :\
Anyways...
There is NO major difference between the TDA7294V and TDA7294HS, except for the way the pins are bent on the IC - see page 1 of the ST's TDA7294 datasheet.
TDA7294V corresponds to the configuration listed for "Multiwatt15V"
And TDA7294HS corresponds to the configuration listed for "Multiwatt15H"
Again, the pinout is the same of the two ICs, but the way the pins are bent is not.
V-type is intended for applications where the IC is mounted perpendicular to the...Leave a comment:
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^ And that's with the continued [i]presumption[/i] that the issue with this welder is in the firmware IC and not something else.
I do wonder what would happen if you ask Miller to re-program that firmware for you. Well, I know, probably they will just tell you to f-off and buy a new board. But sometimes you can't be 100% sure unless you ask.^ And that's with the continued [i]presumption[/i] that the issue with this welder is in the firmware IC and not something else.
I do wonder what would happen if you ask Miller to re-program that firmware for you. Well, I know, probably they willLeave a comment:
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