Those look like ceramic bypass caps to me, not resistors (though a bit difficult to tell 100% through the pictures.)
Either way, whether or not they can be put on by a soldering iron depends on the soldering iron your have and a bit on the pad size. On chips like this, the pads are pretty small, so manual soldering with an iron can be more difficult. Hot air with a fine nozzle might be the better way to go. And use a good amount of flux too. Won't get anything to stick without it.
momaka
master hoarder
Last Activity: 07-24-2024, 05:47 AM
Joined: 05-04-2008
Location: VA (NoVA)
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A bit slow... but I finally got to it yesterday.
So here's the parts list:
Q70 & Q12: marking on top "1p", which should be MMBT2222A (i.e. standard 2222a NPN transistor)
Q71 & Q13: marking on top "2F", which according to my search should be FMMT2907 (i.e. standard 2907 PNP transistor, which is complimentary to the 2222a, which makes sense.)
D14: marking on top "A2", which I think is just a standard 1n4148 diode
and finally, Z82: marking on top "WY" with "b3" written sideways (I presume the latter is a datecode...Leave a comment:
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What a funny coincidence. I just logged onto Badcaps to check if I can find any pics/reviews/info on the FSP Hyper HP500, since there's nothing out there on the rest of the internet. Before I could even query my search, I see this thread in the PSU section. LOL!
Anyways... the HP500, HP600, and HP700 are all built on the same PCB, but with just different components to match the power ratings.
So standby. If (hopefully) I get time this week, I'll tare into my PSU and see if I could identify the parts you asked about.
Hopefully my unit wouldn't have the same parts burned,...Leave a comment:
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Looks good.
Yup, it's Nichicon part number RR70J102MDN1
6.3V, 1000 uF, 7 mOhms ESR, 6k RC, 10 mm dia.
Should work fine for all of the MFZ's (or Nichicon HZ if anyone has the 2005 date-coded ones on their board)
As for the dead link... maybe the new forum software is pulling some shenanigans with the link code?? It should be this (hopefully, let's see):
*edit* or it might be something on Mouser's side. Let's try this:
[url]https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Nichicon/RR70J102MDN1?qs=bW1g5Sys4u1zSDWsCMxuFg%3D%3D[/url]
I guess...Last edited by momaka; 06-10-2024, 06:17 AM.Leave a comment:
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For the Rubycon MFZ, you can use anything from 820 uF to 1500 uF polymers. United Chemicon PSA/PSC or Sanyo (now Panasonic) SEPC or Nichicon RR5 or RR7 or equivalent polymers will be fine. Can use 2.5V, 4V, or 6.3V - at least for the ones around the GPU and the CPU. IIRC, the old Xenon also had a few of the 2700 uF MFZs at the bottom of the board for an auxiliary 3.3V or 5V rail. For those, you'll need 6.3V ones.
All in all, the Xbox 360 boards aren't too picky, so whatever polymers you end up using will be fine. Probably fine to go even with cheaper Kemet from Mouser & Digikey.
...Last edited by momaka; 06-08-2024, 07:14 AM.Leave a comment:
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Your calculations are correct...
The approximate resistance of light bulb will indeed be: P = V^2 / R... or R = V^2 / P = 12^2 / 5 = 144 / 5 = 28.8 Ohms.
But here is where you got tricked: you probably assumed that if you use a 28.8 Ohm resistor in series with the bulb, the voltage going to the bulb will be divided in half (6V), which is CORRECT. However, the power usage of the bulb will not be divided in half...
For pure resistive components, dropping the voltage in HALF (1/2) means their power usage will go down to a QUARTER - i.e. 1/4 of what it was.
What's...Last edited by momaka; 06-05-2024, 03:07 PM.Leave a comment:
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Sounds good, indeed let us know how it goes. Seeing that there other failures of this same exact T-con with the same exact IC, it would be nice to get to a resolution with this.
My experience in the past with cheap ICs is that they are usually not fake (counterfeit? -yes, probably, but that's a different story) and have a good chance of working OK, so long as they don't have some kind of a large power transistor inside (e.g. the STK audio modules that are infamous for burning out at much lower output power than genuine ones.)Leave a comment:
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Yes, it's possible the load on the 5VSB is not enough to show if there are any issues. I think 12V 20W or higher bulb would be better (2x 20W might be enough to put 2 Amps on the 5VSB.)
If you don't have any other bulbs to test, try what harp suggested below \/\/
Agreed.
Basically, plug the PSU back into your computer and connect a multimeter to measure the voltage on the 5VSB line. Now put the computer in standby / sleep mode and see what the 5VSB is. Is it still a solid 5V? (+/- 5%... i.e. it can be as low as 4.75V and as high as 5.25V. Anything out side...Leave a comment:
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Hey all, sorry I didn't follow up with this thread. Looking back at it, I notice many of the small electrolytic caps are not really any good brands that I recognize. As such, I do recommend also checking all of the small (and large) electrolytic caps too.
Also, all of those components labeled M1, M2, M3, and etc. indeed seem to be MOVs, and between them are thermal fuses labeled with TF1, TF2, TF3, and etc. I can't really trace out the circuit given the above pictures, but perhaps there's a chance the controller(s) check if there's an open thermal fuse (due to a possibly bad MOV, or just...Leave a comment:
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Same here.
In fact, I just put together / tested a speaker protection circuit on it last week. It worked just as I expected, though that's no surprise, since it's a rather simple circuit... not to mention I did a simulation of the circuit in Multisim as well. Nevertheless, I always like to test out the real circuit on a breadboard before putting it together. At the very least, it gives a very good "live" representation of the thermal aspect of the circuit (i.e. make sure no component runs too hot and etc.)...Leave a comment:
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Agreed with stj.
I've made that mistake many times in my early years learning electronics repair / soldering.
This is the reason I no longer throw away *any* piece of wire away anymore. I have a bin full of scrap wires of all kinds and it always comes in handy at times like this.Leave a comment:
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I suppose that answer that question.
If you don't know what Bitcoin, Dogecoin, or any of the other cryptocurrencies are or if you aren't involved with any, then your GPU is safe, so to speak....
Leave a comment:
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Both your STR s6707 and the one in the YT video look OK... or at least no hard short-circuit on any of the pins of the ouput transistor (pins 1-3) and no short-circuit on Vcc.
So I don't think that's the issue here.Leave a comment:
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Are you sure the original adapter is supposed to be a 19V 5.76 Amp one? That's roughly a 110 Watt adapter. As far as I know, no LED-backlit monitor uses that much power. Most use 15-20 Watts, some even less. I suppose if set to full brightness and "gaming mode" on, it might be using a bit more. But even then, I doubt it would be that much more.
According to search I found online, this monitor is rated for about 58 Watts maximum power consumption... meaning the monitor will probably use a lot less.
The 14V adapter might be OK if there's nothing inside the monitor...Leave a comment:
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It looks like a ferite bead only, so you can replace it with a solder bridge, at least for testing purproses.
MOSFET next to it look like they've been damaged and changed before? If so, and if these are for the RAM V_dd rail, chances are the GPU's dead beyond revival. Common to see V_dd rail shorted on AMD GPUs. But let's cross our fingers here and hope that's not the case. Give the ferite bead a solder bridge across and pray to the GPU gods a little.Leave a comment:
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+1
It depends on the PSU / board manufacturer, really.
Some indeed use heatsinks to bridge/route ground to various places on the board, while others don't and the solder spots that hold down the heatsink(s) are isolated from the rest of the circuit. In any case, it's good to re-solder them if they are cracked. Otherwise, vibration can make the whole heatsink move more, eventually causing solder joint fractures to the parts attached to the heatsink... or in very severe cases, leads pulled out of parts....Leave a comment:
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This is what our labs in university made us buy; ABRA breadboard model ABRA-24:
[URL]https://abra-electronics.com/boards/breadboards-abra/abra-24-breadboard-1680-tie-points-abra-24.html[/URL]
Still have and use it somewhat regularly. I've broken a few contacts over the years (can't seem to insert anything in those few positions), but I can't say I've been nice to it either (I've plugged far too many recycled components from trash/scrap boards before, sometimes with too much solder on the pins of the components or components with leads that are a little too thick to fit... but...Last edited by momaka; 05-01-2024, 07:15 AM.Leave a comment:
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1st: make sure input on the AC-1USB is set to PHONO and not LINE. A phono signal has to go through RIAA equalization (also usually a high-pass "rumble" filter), otherwise the signal will sound "teeny-tiny" with no bass.
2nd: as harp suggested, and this will also depend on the OS you're using, but make sure your input device is set up properly. Assuming Windows 7 or latter and with the AC-1USB connected to the system, go to your system sound icon in the taskbar and click it. On windows 7, you should see several sliders pop up. Go to the "system" sounds (IIRC...Leave a comment:
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No, not normal.
Gate resistance of the IC should be in the high KOhm range to possibly a few MOhms, like Q301 and Q302....Leave a comment:
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Yeah... that points to a bad AUO P303-19 IC... unless your new MOSFET shorted again (probably will have to check to remove.)
Looking for a P303-19 on the internet, look what I found:
[URL]https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/lcd-screen-model-m270htn02-0-need-help-in-identyfying-a-component/[/URL]
Appears to be a different monitor but with the same T-con and very similar problem.
You can see what the OP did to get the monitor fixed.
Q302 looks to be OK in your case, so probably can leave it be. It's -NOT- a PNP transistor as my searches suggested....Leave a comment:
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