The "HC" marks indicate that these are Nichicon HC series - a low impedance type of capacitor. So you need to get the same type - i.e. match the impedance/ESR and ripple current to generally within +/-30%. The brands and series I listed in my previous post should all be close enough. So just look for, for example, Rubycon ZLH or ZLQ on Digikey, and you should be able to find good-matching replacements....

Yes, I have found several sellers on ebay that are the same way - most of the caps they sell are NOS (5-10 years old, and a few even older). Have not had any issues with using those.


I have nothing against buying from Mouser and Digikey. The only issue is, both of these tend to be NA-centric (US / Canada.) So if you live elsewhere in the world, options can indeed get more limited. And in that case, it's good to know that there genuine Japanese caps too floating around on platforms like ebay and Aliexpress. One just has to be more careful to avoid the counterfeits. But other...

Their electrolyte (Rubycon MFZ) starts to attack the foil / plates, making the cap unable to withstand the voltage that it is rated for. The leakage current also greatly increases. In some cases, this can cause the cap to short-circuit internally and then rupture. Or, if the cap sits unused for a long time, then the electrolyte will still consume the foil/plates, producing gas inside the can and make the cap vent eventually.
In either case, you can observe this on the cheap ESR meters when the capacity of the cap starts going close or above its tolerance - e.g. the 2700 uF Rubycon MFZ will...

socketa,
I must say, I'm really impressed by your dedication, both in terms of troubleshooting and keeping your threads updated

So it looks like it's boiling down to a bad solder joint, possibly.

I don't think (or at least I would hope so) that the nForce 2 Southbrdige chip is the issue here. It's a wirebonded chip, and these won't (or should not) have the same issues like flip-chip technology chips can... unless the chip was somehow severely overheated and for a long time. So I think it's either a BGA under the Southbridge... *OR* could also be a bad connection...

@ Kabir85: I think those are legitimate.... or at least I have not seen fake/counterfeit ones that can copy the original Nichicon rubber bung.
The datecode also looks real. Looks like these were produced in week 23 of year 2020. The letter in front indicated the COO (Country of Origin - i.e. where the cap was made.) I forgot what all of them are, but I think "C" is for China and B is for Malaysia (can't find the datasheet where I previously found this info, so if someone does, please correct me if I'm wrong.) The one I know for sure is "H" is for Japan.

In...

The cap that scottl31 posted above is Nichicon HC series, as lti correctly identified.
EB series from Panasonic is not quite adequate in that case, if ESR and ripple current capability are to be observed.

Relatively close replacements would be United Chemicon KZE and KZH or Rubycon ZLH or ZLQ. All of these are readily available on both Mouser and Dikigey ATM. Just match the capacitance and the voltage (10V, 470 uF), along with the diameter. Height-wise, UCC KZH and Rubycon ZLH and ZLQ will likely both be shorter, since they are newer miniaturized series.

*edit*...