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Yes I'm feeding it directly to the AC input (set to 220V if switchable because the doubler for 120V will not work when fed DC.) Diode loss will be less than 1% for me anyway, so I think that's fine - more loss in downstream components.
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It's a risk I'm willing to take but it stresses two of the bridge diodes 100% duty cycle. Theoretically if I just swap the inputs of the psu every once in a while, it'd heat up the other two diodes and we're back at as if I was powering from AC.
Then again the 120/220 switchable psus the diodes already need to handle 2x current (usually) so it should be good to go.
I'm running DC because...that's all I've got... converting to AC to convert to DC to convert back to AC is kind of ridiculous actually lol....
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Currently trying ~250VDC on these PSUs and they're holding up as expected. Next step up is getting close to that 360ish volts at least theoretical. This is still part of my solar panel experiment - I just got four 90V+ OCV (but not at MPP) panels that I want to reduce the amount of wire so I'll have upwards 360VDC that I want to feed into these PSUs straight. Unfortunately I don't have space for 4 panels yet, so that is the limiting factor for the 360-400VDC experiment.
These PSUs are series connected and fed into my grid tie inverter. I figure this is the cheapest way to tie these...Last edited by eccerr0r; 04-23-2024, 11:20 AM.
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220VAC locales... ever used DC to feed switch mode power supples...and how many volts is generally okay?
For those in 220V locales, anyone power their SMPS with DC, and how high of a voltage is okay?
What kind of PSU?
I suspect that 240V * sqrt(2) = 340V DC is probably fine because that would be about how much the the primary rectifier ends up with peak voltage. Just wondering, other than input capacitor voltages, can one go up above this 340V without damage? Will that input capacitor be the upper bound?
Wondering if exactly that, can I feed near 400VDC into bona fide specced at 220V SMPS without damage?
Currently have a 120/220V switchable SMPS I want to see if I...
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reminds me of a 14" VGA monitor I fixed years ago... there was a hole in the FBT that leaked HV out the side to the closest chassis ground, wicked spark... I stuffed it with plastic and it insulated enough for the crt to work... hah.
hmm that fbt looks similar to one i pulled from a 17" crt I drop cracked... wonder if i still have it...
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TBH I have no clue what the value add of the TO-92 LED is... other than it looks like a light emitting transistor...
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Current is defined as the rate of electrons going through a point, so you have to get in between to know what's going on.
Technically if you know the voltage across two points and the resistance, you can compute current. The problem is that the resistance between the nodes tends to be unknown and may even change. Without it known and stable, there's no way to know current through two points (plus it may "leak" to another node).
Best you can do is using a clamp meter if you can't split the node.
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I'd imagine that DIACs (btw how do most people test these without a high voltage curve tracer?) would fail short or end up blackened/burned, and it's not conclusive here if you see an open DIAC with a modern multimeter?...
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My guess would be that the FPUs are slow anyway and need to do LUT,the main proc probably could do the LUT in about the same time.
Advantage of FTAN and FATAN is that you do both lookups and the divide at the same time......
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fuq. The cpu board/daughterboard is soldered to the analog board via card edge instead of using a connector.... GRR.... cheeep cheep cheeep cheeeeeeep...
BTW, yes the backlight is(was) on so power is good. I've been meaning to check reset and the crystal output but too lazy recently, haven't been feeling well.Last edited by eccerr0r; 12-14-2023, 02:02 AM.
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heh, died and didn't ever expect a response...
Toast = LCD is blank, no response. No burnt areas but someone was in the unit making "mods" so I assume the mods killed the digital portion. I was hoping to use the analog portion at some point.
Anyway, thanks - I did come across a bunch of schematics but the boards are all slightly different from each other, though they look so similar... I'll take a look in a bit and see if it's any better, but the 485 seems like it might be the Albrecht 485 which IIRC was not quite the same.
Alas I've subsequently...Last edited by eccerr0r; 12-13-2023, 02:46 PM.
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Depends on how it's being used. If it's just a smps primary bulk filter cap, usually that would work fine.
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Cold side will look like it's grounded because one side really is grounded...and other side, well it's a transformer and a piece of wire so it too will look grounded.
The second picture is really low resolution, can't really see anything but should look for the switching controller and go from there. Are there SMT components on the other side, or are all the semiconductors and other stuff just hidden underneath the heatsinks?
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Re: OLD Socket 478 custom bracket + NEW generic cooler
[url]https://community.intel.com/t5/Processors/Are-there-any-Socket-478-CPUs-that-support-quot-Intel-64/m-p/395790[/url] might even be a unicorn?Re: OLD Socket 478 custom bracket + ... be a unicorn?Re: OLD Socket 478 custom bracket + NEW generic cooler
[url]https://community.intel.com/t5/Processors/Are-there-any-Socket-478-CPUs-that-support-quot-Intel-64/m-p/395790[/url]
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Re: OLD Socket 478 custom bracket + NEW generic cooler
I have an old P4 3GHz HT 32-bit only. It overheats.
I'm too cheap to use anything but ZnO heat sink paste in it because I'm not sure what I'd use this P4 for since it's so slow... should I put in more expensive heat sink compound on it?
Too bad my other P4, a 3.4GHz HT 64-bit Prescott also is unstable, but probably MB issue.
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Re: DIY PCIe x1 video card...
Lol yeah dont bother with the old crap nvidia cards especially the 8400GS.
And agreed any mid to high end radeon...expect it to fail. Seems any RadeonHD XYZ0 ...
X and Z - doesn't matter what these digits are
Y - if it's 4 or less, it will last forever. If it's 5 or 6, could go either way. If it's 7 or larger, expect it to die in 5 years...
I have an NVS310 that might be worth the hack, though dunno how well these survive over time. However I think a low end Radeon will last forever...
Incidentally, is there...Last edited by eccerr0r; 11-06-2023, 11:03 AM.
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