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Gonna need a charging circuit hacked in. I just don’t understand why having this opener designed for remote duty with a battery to operate on AC. Unless the cable run along the driveway to the gate would be so long that even on AC the voltage drop would be that high it couldn’t operate an opener in any case. So they use that little power that they get and charge a battery with it and let the battery do the heavy lifting....
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Somehow Mighty Mule is stuck in my head as a purely solar operated remote gate opener used on a ranch or something. It does have a list of issues, but most of them I think you can address no problem. The other manufacturer I never knew it actually existed as such....
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Nothing is cheap anymore. Try getting something repaired is another thing around here. We are getting taken for a ride.
So the opener uses a DC motor to open close the gate. Weird design using the battery as a power buffer to operate. Probably was a AGM battery of some sort?
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Aaah! Thats how it works! I just had the impression it was battery operated only?!
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Not only is the values of uF and V important, also the size LxWxH, leg spacing, temperature rating, etc. You probably cannot deviate much of anything, as size wise the cap has to fit in a certain spot.
So take the cap out match it up with a decent brand something from Digikey, Mouser, LCSC, TME, Farnell or whatever. Don't go buying caps from Fleabay, Ali… they are probably fake.
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You could be lucky and only the Mosfets are dead. But if you look at it the other way: The drain and source are shorted to the gate, means the whole gate drive got full bore power on it. So you have to inspect the whole gate drive circuit and the PWM included. PWM can play dead, but also it could be stuck on and then short out your new MOSFET blowing up everything again. Then you need a fuse, because it is blown too…
Could the PWM be unharmed, yes… but there is equal chance the PWM is toasted too.
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Translation:
Hello friends! I'm going to try to buy the motor inverter module. A friend with experience in washing machines is almost certain that's where the problem is. Where can I find this module?
either you find a whole replacement board at a dealer, eBay etc. or you buy the IC by itself and swap it out on the board. Try suppliers, like Mouser, Digikey, LCSC, TME, Ailiexpress…...
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Overseas they had multiple antennas on the roof. You get cables easily inside with a rubber boot, a pipe and a weather head. That’s what I got.
Back to the antennas… they were single channel antennas, fed with 75ohm coax, on the bottom of the mast / pipe was a multi channel amplifier and a combiner splitter so all the channels (9) were available to watch in bedrooms, living room, basement living room etc.
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I guess this happens with anything that one got multiples off. Cars, machines, devices etc. welcome to the club!...
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If you get 13V with the switch off, then you got a problem somewhere else. Not the bridge rectifier. Could be that big cap is bad, something is loading the 13V down (only thing 13V in that Nintendo is the RF section, so just disable it by cutting the power to it). Maybe a bad 5V regulator, etc.
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I actually DO! For shits and giggles boot that computer up into Linux Ubuntu or Mint and see if you still have this problem.
Same as you, back then I found not much in the internet about it. One is an ASUS with a 4th gen Intel and the other a 6th gen Intel. Both have that problem on their onboard graphics. Only difference is mine are running Linux now....Last edited by CapLeaker; 12-02-2024, 05:29 AM.
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With a little leg bending you get a 30 amp diode in a TO247 case in there. You almost can put anything in there as long as it has minimum the same ratings as the old diode. You can put anything higher voltage, higher amperage and even faster recovery diode in there. Some are full pack (fully isolated). This thing died because it got wayyy to hot.
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Has nothing to do with the monitor at all. This is more like a GPU / mouse settings problem.
I had something very similar where I had the same “tearing” problem under scrolling websites on two different desktop computers, both using onboard graphics. One had a dual screen setup, the other a 40” TV.
Try lowering resolution, frequency setting, how many lines to scroll, etc…
I ended up back then getting two EVGA GTX1050’s, put one in each computer and called it a day. Works fine as kind today....
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Translates to this:
Hello! The shock absorbers are fine, as well as the door lock switch, no error appears on the screen. I understand your logic only that the car does not start to squeeze to the level where it starts to shake so that the vibration sensor comes into operation. the attempt of centrifugation is slow, and lasts very little, jumping from minute 9 to minute 1. Anyway, thank you for your interest. I'm still waiting for suggestions!
I am not really good with Samsung washer and dryers, but on other overseas appliances like Miele, AEG, Bosch, etc I came...
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