CapLeaker
Leaking Member
Last Activity: Today, 11:07 AM
Joined: 12-04-2014
Location: Atlantic Canada
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Conformal coating is fine, I use it too. Nah, further board repairs are not more difficult, rather you trying to protecting what is left of the PCB and not making hopefully no further repairs. Just glue? I hope some industrial grade not household stuff!? -
Just reflash it through FTP.Leave a comment:
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I hope you did put something like UV curing mask on all the exposed traces on the PCB and changed out whatever made the coolant leak inside the housing.
I’ve dealt quite a bit with coolant submerged (leaked) circuit boards. This will rot the components and expose the circuit board traces. Your findings on traces, resistors, rotten off SMD components with broken solder joints etc is certainly what I would expect on such a repair.Leave a comment:
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Yeah… a bit different failure than all others… plus it is the newer style not the older linear version with the big transformer. So I thought it is worth posting it.
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Deltran Battery Tender Plus 1.25A dead repair
Someone brought me one to repair it. Totally dead. Nuttn at all.
Must be at least the 2A fuse blown. Right on. Why did that blow?
Go fiddling around, no short on the primary cap, 13N50 MOSFET good… Aaaah! Secondary backside right at the corner is a SS34 SMD Schottky diode shorted. No problem.
Should work now!
How about not! 
Luckily I had a dim bulb in series and it was bright as it can be! Again… no short across the main cap, MOSFET good…
but jet there is a short as the dim bulb is bright as it can be. Culprit was the DB107 surface...
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Again. You cannot ask a device to work double the capacity for what it is intended for. Unless you like something like your place to burn.
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I told you not to do that. You can increase current, but do not over volt!
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10 ohms from gnd to output pin is certainly a sign of an shorted MLCC or a bad IC. Don’t get the idea to put more voltage on that 3.3V rail, but you certainly can increase current with a bench PSU.Leave a comment:
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Well... I guess you got excessive current draw on that 3.3V power rail for one reason or another. I suppose you could take the 3.3V LDO out and put a bench PSU to 3.3V and current limit to 1A and see what happens. If the voltage sags... increase current... something will get hot and reveals itself fif you touch it, dose components with IPA and see how fast the alcohol evaporates or thermal imager. How much Ohms resistance do you measure between GND and 3.3V output? Could be a MLCC cap or and IC.Last edited by CapLeaker; 03-01-2026, 07:03 AM.Leave a comment:
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Who cares what the app sez, as long as the robot works and properly charges on its charging station.Leave a comment:
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Either the 3.3v regulator is bad, or not getting enough input voltage, or something is drawing more current than the ams1117 can provide. LDO’s are always treated to be suspects as soon as you see them. These LDO’s should do about one amp, that’s it. There are 2 versions of LDO’s: one is fixed output voltage (middle pin is GND), the other is an adjustable output voltage one (middle pin is ADJ). Look at the spec sheet....Leave a comment:
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Maybe explain more (rather than a one liner) in detail what she is doing…...Leave a comment:
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Probably number one mistake is having no load on it, making your readings go off.Leave a comment:
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Wonder if it is the same as an LS24F350?Leave a comment:
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Well… if you ever find a schematic to this amp… please do share. Fender doesn’t give out schematics anymore,...Leave a comment:
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Usually either something to with the sockets, either damage or something conductive. Clean it with 99% IPA first and then there are some resistor shenanigans that can do this error too. Read the manual from EEVBLOG that lotas posted. This meter isn’t as complicated than the 289.Leave a comment:
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check12 There are a few things that helps troubleshooting: make sure the positive and negative 15V are getting actually to the opamps, not only to the rail itself....Leave a comment:
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good vid tony359!Leave a comment:
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Or repairs the old PSULeave a comment:
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Take the PSU out and make a straight shot picture from top and bottom. I wonder if there is a pinout printed on the PCB. Probably you should see something more like 15V on the main power rail if it is working correctly. 6 or 7VDC don’t cut it.
edit: pin 1 and 2 is positive and pins 3 and 4 is negative.
https://www.xppower.com/portals/0/pdfs/SF_VCB60.pdf...Last edited by CapLeaker; 02-21-2026, 08:51 PM.Leave a comment:
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