Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
Poverty rig lol
Poverty rig lol
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
This makes me wanna build an old-school AMD Socket A rig!
Just saw an old DFI Lanparty nForce2 board from a local Computer shop. Was in prestine condition and selling for $40. If it's still there, I wish I could haggle the owner.. LOL
@ratdude
Nice rig overall! Especially the 9800 AGP card..
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
Originally part of the design was to use a dual 462 Board... turns out that something went wonky with the recap and nuked one of the CPU sockets... hence where the RAM came from.This makes me wanna build an old-school AMD Socket A rig!
Just saw an old DFI Lanparty nForce2 board from a local Computer shop. Was in prestine condition and selling for $40. If it's still there, I wish I could haggle the owner.. LOL
@ratdude
Nice rig overall! Especially the 9800 AGP card..
If you do build a dual 462, let me know as I have a pair 2600+ T-bred MPs and a pair of decent (but whining fast) coolers up for grabs...sigpic
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
The system still runs but I think you might be right... come to think of it, the board came out warped when I gutted the system for the dremel mod...
The only fix I can think of is to install the original clips and pay $60-$80 for some standard mount coolers. Thats IMHO out of budget... maybe I could cut some spacers of the correct thickness to go between the board and the heatsink?sigpic
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
I had a "Eureka!" moment and found a solution:
I took 8 of the obscure M3 standoffs in a raidmax screw kit and stacked them by 2 and threaded them into the screw plate. Since the screw plate's threaded studs stick out of the board, I took the #6 washers from the old setup and placed those on the exposed studs. In order to get the height right, I also had to add a #4 washer. These standoffs fit nicely into the oversized holes in the the heatsinks:
The tops of the standoffs are ever so slightly recessed, so the screws can actually provide the pressure needed for a good fit:
I only had enough standoffs and #4 washers for one CPU, so I removed the other CPU and as shown in the first pic, used the top screws to hold down the screw plate and #6 washers. I did that so I can install the second set of hardware w/o removing the mobo (you remove and replace the screws one at a time).
I personally think this is a pretty elegant solution. My only beef is that I had to stack the standoffs; if they made M3 standoffs in that height it might have looked prettier.
Fry's has the standoffs and I'll be in indy this weekend; I'll pick up another screw kit and more washers and get CPU #2 back on line. I'll also swap the washers for non-stainless ones (I borrowed these from my dad's stainless washer stash) and maybe even use some blue thread locker on the standoffs.
Comments?Attached FilesLast edited by ratdude747; 06-18-2012, 08:04 AM.sigpic
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
Wow that is a nice fit for that CPU cooler!
Noob question! Why are the metal washers in use for? I see two of them in each 4 sockets.. heheheComment
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
The lower ones are larger and they are there to cover the exposed studs protruding from the backplate. This is done to keep the backpate firmly clamped to the board (this reduces Board flex).
The upper washers are smaller and are used to raise the standoffs to the correct height. In this design, the height is extremely critical to preventing board flex.sigpic
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
Good measurement on placing those washers. Board flexing reminds me of the Xbox 360 with the 3RL/X-Clamp fixes.Comment
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
In that case, your new stud-mod should help a bit. The board may still flex a little, but that's inevitable. A thick back plate is the only way to go.
But don't worry - those BGA sockets will usually take a lot of board warp before they loose contact with the board.Comment
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
FWIW, I was surprised at how much the board flexed when I put the copper sinks on my last SM 771 build....hasn't been a problem. it wasn't extreme, but it was noticeable.<--- Badcaps.net Founder
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
The other worry I had regarding flex is that the board might have warped to a point where the HS no longer was held tightly to the board.sigpic
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
s775 boards always flex slightly with the stock coolers.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
Well that means investing on a much "better" aftermarket cooler. The Freezer64 series! I Want..Comment
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Re: Ratdude's Main rig V2
Good news: I bought the washers and standoffs today
Bad news: I snapped a standoff and thus I am still down to 1 CPU.
I didn't give it that much torque before it went... brass is a weak metal.
My new plan is to buy some M3 13mm Standoffs (to replace the 2x 6.5mm stacks):
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...QiNbuUkvX7s%3d
OR
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...DKV1uorAWBA%3d
Both are the same diameter Hex as well.
One is SS, one is AL. The backplate's studs are Galvanized steel... so should I go with SS?Last edited by ratdude747; 06-23-2012, 11:53 PM.sigpic
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I suppose the real question is whether the existing pinouts from ether a 17IPS71 psu are cross compatible with a 17IPS12 psu? If they are then the exchange of the main boards should have no issues providing the screen is compatible with both main boards. Obviously you can change the screen configurations easily enough (providing you have the correct files) for the main board. Why may you ask would I do this? Well a lot of the smart features are no longer working on a Hitachi 48HBT62U main board I wish to give it a new lease of life!
Obviously the same LVDS connector for the screen connection... -
Hi and thanks in advance for any input you might provide!
I have a Sceptre U550CV-UMRD8POTV83BB 4K LED (this is a dumb tv) that I bought new in August 2021, so It's just completed 3 years.
Main power board model: TP.MS3683.PC821 T-Con board: N4TP546UHDPU2L_BO
Last Sunday I was watching a dvd and fell asleep for about half hour, when I awoke the tv screen was black and couldn't get the dvd menu to show, so I changed the input to antenna and had sound but no picture, turned it off. I then got online and found this great site! ....read many troubleshooting tips and this... -
Hi everyone,
Iām looking for help with a persistent issue on an LG TV model 55NANO77SRA, which uses the main board EBU66792103 (also used in LG UQ80 and NANO75/NANO80 series).
š§© Problem Summary:- The TV keeps scrolling through the menu or selecting items by itself.
- I removed the physical button board (the entire panel with power and volume buttons) and also disconnected the flat cable (CN202) from the main board.
- The remote control is not in use (batteries removed), and the TV still shows the same behavior.
- I
07-28-2025, 08:34 AM -
Hi everyone,
Im looking for some advice regarding my Samsung UE55MU8000 TV with main board model BN94-11606C. The TV suddenly stopped turning on and now shows no signs of life at all not even the standby light at the bottom.
Initially, I suspected an issue with the PSU, so I took it to a repair center. They tested it and confirmed that the PSU works perfectly, even on other TVs. Based on that, I started investigating the main board.
I disconnected the main board from the PSU, and the backlight turned on, which seems to confirm the main board is the issue.... -
Hoping someone here could possibly help. I have a few questions in regards to compatibility with main boards. But I'll give a quick short run down on what's going on first;
I have Samsung Smart TV UA65MU6100WXXY version DA01
Now years ago it started intermittently playing up after a lighting strike. Lighting hit the block of units i was living in at the time. Ever since that night the TV started having a mind of its own, It would randomly turn itself off or on, and all inputs stopped responding like HDMI, aerial, but USB still worked. Anyway, over the next few months...
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