Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
If it still works with a fan our suspicions must turn to another bad capacitor :/.
If it still works with a fan our suspicions must turn to another bad capacitor :/.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
GOOD Morning.............It's STILL on !!!!! It's been on for about 15 hours now. Now what does that tell us?Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Getting ready to remove the board to take pics, but have another issue that I wanted your input on. This may or may not be related to the t.v losing picture but you would know better than I.
I ALWAYS noticed that the sound seemed louder on the RT of the soundbar. Anyway, when we hooked the sound bar up last nite I noticed that there was NO sound on the LEFT side. So, I followed it to the ONLY CapXon left on the board. In the meantime, I hooked up both sides of the sound bar to the CN801 side on the speaker connector and now the soundbar works on both sides. I am attaching pics so you can see what I am talking about. That cap is a CapXon220uf25. I don't have a cap of that size, would a 1000uF25v be acceptable or is that too much ?
Even if this doesn't pertain to the "losing picture" problem I want to fix it while I've got it tore apart.
Taking pics of the solder joints next. Thought I'd give you something to chew on till I get back.Attached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I can't see your pictures though I'll make a quick judgement.
It depends on the amplifier, but it's quite likely that those handle the audio coupling... essentially they turn (e.g.) a 0V to 12V signal into a -6V to +6V signal (which a speaker wants, otherwise it will burn out.) If they fail open, they could cause a loss of sound. Fortunately, you can replace the capacitor with essentially any size; a bigger value will make it have more bass but that's likely going to be beyond the range of human hearing so you shouldn't hear a difference from the factory configuration.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Too much. Get the proper value for the replacement. This will do
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ords=P12383-ND
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Okay, from the pics it looks like it's not the audio coupling cap, because there's only one, normally there would be one per channel. I'm guessing the 1000u ones were the ones you replaced. Could be something like the balance setting in the menu? It wouldn't be the first time a bad capacitor has corrupted user settings. (Very common with Samsung LCD TVs.)
If the original cap was put in backwards it would have conducted a high current which might have damaged the speaker. This would not be immediately audible but can be tested using a multimeter. I do have some speakers from a Philips 32"; no idea if they would fit though.
Have you tried running one speaker on the output of the other? The connectors are keyed so it may be difficult to do so.Last edited by tom66; 01-29-2012, 04:18 PM.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Have you tried running one speaker on the output of the other? The connectors are keyed so it may be difficult to do so.
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Yes, I can hook up either side of the speaker sound bar to the Speaker Connector & get sound so it's not the speakers inside the sound bar. It's the left set side of where you hook up the speakers (top RT side of 1st pic) and I followed the trail to a CapXon cap. BTW, there are lots more CapXons there. That was the first board I fixed and only re-capped 2 from that board that were bloated.Attached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Well, I managed to get one decent shot of my soldering. I found out that there are a total of 14 capXons on that board. I have already replaced 3. The others are:
100 uf 25v (qty 3)
220 uf 16v (qty 6)
220 uf 25v (qty2)
Does anybody know what those two green caps are? The name starts with a cursive L and I can't make out the rest. Don't know if they are a decent brand or not. Am wondering if I should replace them as well.
They are 470 uf 35vAttached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
On 2nd thought, gently pull on the green ones as well. They fillet shape looks okay, but it is hard to tell from the photo.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The green ones are cold jointed.
However if the joints are too difficult to get right, it is possible using a piece of wire to bridge it over to the inductors to get better contact. That's a last resort.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The red one was my first attempt at soldering, remember? I was using thicker solder. I took that one off and re-did it and they are both nice and shiny and don't seem to wiggle.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Lelon probably.[/QUOTE]
Is Lelon a good brand ?Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Is Lelon a good brand ?[/QUOTE]
No. One of the worst.
I only trust Panasonic, Chemicon, Rubycon, Nichicon and some Samxon. Although, given their location on the board, Lelon may be okay. Don't replace it just yet, it probably isn't causing problems.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Yes, they are a Lelon capacitor, at least that is what is on my board.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I'm in Tulsa all day today. (The big city) Does anyone know where I might pick up caps while I am here ? Just a thought.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I have a quick question, on the main logic board I have having a difficult time disconnecting the connector with all the colored wired. Is there a trick to it, I don't want to reef to hard on it and chance breaking it... Thanks!Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Please disregard the last post... I got it
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Philips 8200 series 65PUS8204/12 stuck at Philips Logo, it does not reboot it just stays on the logo.
It does power up when pressing the power button.
I already try the power button while plugin the plug with no result.
Also put the latest firmware autorun-TPM191E_R.001.004.100.000.upg on a MBR/FAT32 USB stick at USB port2 with no result either.
Could this be an PSU or eMMC issue ? -
I have a Philips TV that shows no signs of life when plugged in - no standby LED, no response to buttons, no noises, nothing. This model is well known for having bad caps, so I started by replacing a few of them (3x 35v 1500uf and 1x 2200uf 16v). I don't know the history of the TV but it looks like someone's been at it before because some of the solder joints looked really bad, so I re soldered them as well.
After swapping the caps I still got no signs of life so I started checking voltages, and found that the board is supplying 24v but not 12v. Here's what I measured on the connector... -
Hi all,
Wife has 2 Philips hair curling irons half defective - after learning how they're supposed to work and testing them, it turned out that both have defective power cables, and both on the same place; broken wires due to wire bending.
As they were both relatively easy to disassemble, and cables are plugged not soldered (as they can rotate in the handle), I was sure it would be easy to find replacements. But - NO! I'm unable to find anything similar on ebay or Aliexpress.
Not sure if this is something Philips proprietary, or a standard, but the cable plug...Today, 10:04 AM -
Hi
I have here a Philips 47PFS7509/12 LCD TV which came to me with a weird problem : without signal i could access menu, make a factory reset, access menus, etc.
When i applied cable signal to check image, i had normal picture, but TV was restarting.
I downloaded original firmware and applied the update, but the problem remained.
From a colleague i received a "factory package software" which is a lot bigger.
I made another firmware update, but still did not solve the problem.
Somewhere on the way the error got worse, because at the moment the... -
Hello,
I've got a really strange issue with the speakers on my Philips 43PUS7506/12. It makes this awful loud buzzing now. It happened after it was attempted to be wall mounted - I think the back got squeezed and something broke.
I thought maybe the speakers got damaged, so I replaced them - no dice.- Using the internal speakers, it always happens.
- Using the headphone jack, it never happens.
- Using the digital/optical out with a soundbar - it happens after about 2h/movie runtime - it's never as drastic, it just pops in and out, but I didn't want it to damage the sound bar
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