Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
If it still works with a fan our suspicions must turn to another bad capacitor :/.
If it still works with a fan our suspicions must turn to another bad capacitor :/.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
GOOD Morning.............It's STILL on !!!!! It's been on for about 15 hours now. Now what does that tell us?Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Getting ready to remove the board to take pics, but have another issue that I wanted your input on. This may or may not be related to the t.v losing picture but you would know better than I.
I ALWAYS noticed that the sound seemed louder on the RT of the soundbar. Anyway, when we hooked the sound bar up last nite I noticed that there was NO sound on the LEFT side. So, I followed it to the ONLY CapXon left on the board. In the meantime, I hooked up both sides of the sound bar to the CN801 side on the speaker connector and now the soundbar works on both sides. I am attaching pics so you can see what I am talking about. That cap is a CapXon220uf25. I don't have a cap of that size, would a 1000uF25v be acceptable or is that too much ?
Even if this doesn't pertain to the "losing picture" problem I want to fix it while I've got it tore apart.
Taking pics of the solder joints next. Thought I'd give you something to chew on till I get back.Attached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I can't see your pictures though I'll make a quick judgement.
It depends on the amplifier, but it's quite likely that those handle the audio coupling... essentially they turn (e.g.) a 0V to 12V signal into a -6V to +6V signal (which a speaker wants, otherwise it will burn out.) If they fail open, they could cause a loss of sound. Fortunately, you can replace the capacitor with essentially any size; a bigger value will make it have more bass but that's likely going to be beyond the range of human hearing so you shouldn't hear a difference from the factory configuration.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Too much. Get the proper value for the replacement. This will do
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ords=P12383-ND
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Okay, from the pics it looks like it's not the audio coupling cap, because there's only one, normally there would be one per channel. I'm guessing the 1000u ones were the ones you replaced. Could be something like the balance setting in the menu? It wouldn't be the first time a bad capacitor has corrupted user settings. (Very common with Samsung LCD TVs.)
If the original cap was put in backwards it would have conducted a high current which might have damaged the speaker. This would not be immediately audible but can be tested using a multimeter. I do have some speakers from a Philips 32"; no idea if they would fit though.
Have you tried running one speaker on the output of the other? The connectors are keyed so it may be difficult to do so.Last edited by tom66; 01-29-2012, 04:18 PM.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Have you tried running one speaker on the output of the other? The connectors are keyed so it may be difficult to do so.
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Yes, I can hook up either side of the speaker sound bar to the Speaker Connector & get sound so it's not the speakers inside the sound bar. It's the left set side of where you hook up the speakers (top RT side of 1st pic) and I followed the trail to a CapXon cap. BTW, there are lots more CapXons there. That was the first board I fixed and only re-capped 2 from that board that were bloated.Attached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Well, I managed to get one decent shot of my soldering. I found out that there are a total of 14 capXons on that board. I have already replaced 3. The others are:
100 uf 25v (qty 3)
220 uf 16v (qty 6)
220 uf 25v (qty2)
Does anybody know what those two green caps are? The name starts with a cursive L and I can't make out the rest. Don't know if they are a decent brand or not. Am wondering if I should replace them as well.
They are 470 uf 35vAttached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
On 2nd thought, gently pull on the green ones as well. They fillet shape looks okay, but it is hard to tell from the photo.
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The green ones are cold jointed.
However if the joints are too difficult to get right, it is possible using a piece of wire to bridge it over to the inductors to get better contact. That's a last resort.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The red one was my first attempt at soldering, remember? I was using thicker solder. I took that one off and re-did it and they are both nice and shiny and don't seem to wiggle.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Lelon probably.[/QUOTE]
Is Lelon a good brand ?Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Is Lelon a good brand ?[/QUOTE]
No. One of the worst.
I only trust Panasonic, Chemicon, Rubycon, Nichicon and some Samxon. Although, given their location on the board, Lelon may be okay. Don't replace it just yet, it probably isn't causing problems.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Yes, they are a Lelon capacitor, at least that is what is on my board.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I'm in Tulsa all day today. (The big city) Does anyone know where I might pick up caps while I am here ? Just a thought.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I have a quick question, on the main logic board I have having a difficult time disconnecting the connector with all the colored wired. Is there a trick to it, I don't want to reef to hard on it and chance breaking it... Thanks!Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Please disregard the last post... I got it
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I have a Philips TV that shows no signs of life when plugged in - no standby LED, no response to buttons, no noises, nothing. This model is well known for having bad caps, so I started by replacing a few of them (3x 35v 1500uf and 1x 2200uf 16v). I don't know the history of the TV but it looks like someone's been at it before because some of the solder joints looked really bad, so I re soldered them as well.
After swapping the caps I still got no signs of life so I started checking voltages, and found that the board is supplying 24v but not 12v. Here's what I measured on the connector... -
Hello,
I've got a really strange issue with the speakers on my Philips 43PUS7506/12. It makes this awful loud buzzing now. It happened after it was attempted to be wall mounted - I think the back got squeezed and something broke.
I thought maybe the speakers got damaged, so I replaced them - no dice.- Using the internal speakers, it always happens.
- Using the headphone jack, it never happens.
- Using the digital/optical out with a soundbar - it happens after about 2h/movie runtime - it's never as drastic, it just pops in and out, but I didn't want it to damage the sound bar
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Hello Team,
New issue on LCD panel where I need to find out the cause and the potential solution.
This is on the Philips 50PUH6400, the LCD panel is an INNOLUX V500dk2 xrs1.
I have image, on the right side, the image is more or less normal even if there is a small blur on edge, on the left there is an issue.
When moving up and down in the menu on the right the image is slow to disappear, and is darker, like red/brown.
I've checked voltages, no issue found comparing right and left side of the panel driver.
VHG VGL CKV... are the sames on... -
Hello partners.
Could someone tell me how to make this Philips TV source work without the mainboard being connected? The model of the board is EAX65423701 (2.1) and the model of the Philips TV is 40PFH40009/88.
The TV is dead, there is no standby light, however there is a voltage of 12v on the pins ( included 12v VAU ) and 3.2v on the PS-ON pin (see photo) when the power board is connected to the main board. If I disconnect both boards I only get 8 volts on 12v pins. I would like to rule out a fault in the main board by making it work, but so far no one has been able to tell... -
i have a philips for repair 55pus7909/12
fault is no display but the white logo philips lit below of the screen
No display
No backlight
no sound
power supply the standby voltages are ok
Any Help regarding this problem?
Thanks
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