Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
If it still works with a fan our suspicions must turn to another bad capacitor :/.
If it still works with a fan our suspicions must turn to another bad capacitor :/.
-
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search. -
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
GOOD Morning.............It's STILL on !!!!! It's been on for about 15 hours now. Now what does that tell us?Comment
-
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Getting ready to remove the board to take pics, but have another issue that I wanted your input on. This may or may not be related to the t.v losing picture but you would know better than I.
I ALWAYS noticed that the sound seemed louder on the RT of the soundbar. Anyway, when we hooked the sound bar up last nite I noticed that there was NO sound on the LEFT side. So, I followed it to the ONLY CapXon left on the board. In the meantime, I hooked up both sides of the sound bar to the CN801 side on the speaker connector and now the soundbar works on both sides. I am attaching pics so you can see what I am talking about. That cap is a CapXon220uf25. I don't have a cap of that size, would a 1000uF25v be acceptable or is that too much ?
Even if this doesn't pertain to the "losing picture" problem I want to fix it while I've got it tore apart.
Taking pics of the solder joints next. Thought I'd give you something to chew on till I get back.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Comment
-
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I can't see your pictures though I'll make a quick judgement.
It depends on the amplifier, but it's quite likely that those handle the audio coupling... essentially they turn (e.g.) a 0V to 12V signal into a -6V to +6V signal (which a speaker wants, otherwise it will burn out.) If they fail open, they could cause a loss of sound. Fortunately, you can replace the capacitor with essentially any size; a bigger value will make it have more bass but that's likely going to be beyond the range of human hearing so you shouldn't hear a difference from the factory configuration.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Too much. Get the proper value for the replacement. This will do
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ords=P12383-ND
Hold off ordering because there may be more parts required.--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
--- end sig file ---Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Okay, from the pics it looks like it's not the audio coupling cap, because there's only one, normally there would be one per channel. I'm guessing the 1000u ones were the ones you replaced. Could be something like the balance setting in the menu? It wouldn't be the first time a bad capacitor has corrupted user settings. (Very common with Samsung LCD TVs.)
If the original cap was put in backwards it would have conducted a high current which might have damaged the speaker. This would not be immediately audible but can be tested using a multimeter. I do have some speakers from a Philips 32"; no idea if they would fit though.
Have you tried running one speaker on the output of the other? The connectors are keyed so it may be difficult to do so.Last edited by tom66; 01-29-2012, 04:18 PM.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Have you tried running one speaker on the output of the other? The connectors are keyed so it may be difficult to do so.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yes, I can hook up either side of the speaker sound bar to the Speaker Connector & get sound so it's not the speakers inside the sound bar. It's the left set side of where you hook up the speakers (top RT side of 1st pic) and I followed the trail to a CapXon cap. BTW, there are lots more CapXons there. That was the first board I fixed and only re-capped 2 from that board that were bloated.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Comment
-
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Well, I managed to get one decent shot of my soldering. I found out that there are a total of 14 capXons on that board. I have already replaced 3. The others are:
100 uf 25v (qty 3)
220 uf 16v (qty 6)
220 uf 25v (qty2)
Does anybody know what those two green caps are? The name starts with a cursive L and I can't make out the rest. Don't know if they are a decent brand or not. Am wondering if I should replace them as well.
They are 470 uf 35vAttached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Comment
-
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The green joints look okay. The red joints definitely have too much solder on them. If you pull gently on that cap, does it move?
Lelon probably.The name starts with a cursive L and I can't make out the rest.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
--- end sig file ---Comment
-
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
On 2nd thought, gently pull on the green ones as well. They fillet shape looks okay, but it is hard to tell from the photo.
Let's see what others say.--- begin sig file ---
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.
Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.
--- end sig file ---Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The green ones are cold jointed.
However if the joints are too difficult to get right, it is possible using a piece of wire to bridge it over to the inductors to get better contact. That's a last resort.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The red one was my first attempt at soldering, remember? I was using thicker solder. I took that one off and re-did it and they are both nice and shiny and don't seem to wiggle.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Lelon probably.[/QUOTE]
Is Lelon a good brand ?Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Is Lelon a good brand ?[/QUOTE]
No. One of the worst.
I only trust Panasonic, Chemicon, Rubycon, Nichicon and some Samxon. Although, given their location on the board, Lelon may be okay. Don't replace it just yet, it probably isn't causing problems.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Yes, they are a Lelon capacitor, at least that is what is on my board.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I'm in Tulsa all day today. (The big city) Does anyone know where I might pick up caps while I am here ? Just a thought.Comment
-
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I have a quick question, on the main logic board I have having a difficult time disconnecting the connector with all the colored wired. Is there a trick to it, I don't want to reef to hard on it and chance breaking it... Thanks!Comment
-
Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Please disregard the last post... I got it
Comment
-
Hello,
I bought a SH Philips 55OLED804/12 TV with known defect in an attempt to repair it for personal use.
The symptoms when bought: Philips logo appears then tv turns off
Things tried so far:
1. Powering it on: Philips logo shows on the screen, sometimes with some minor artefacts then shuts down. Red status led flickers rapidly into two batches then repeats
2. Put it in recovery mode by pressing joystick down then plugging it to mains: The tv shows the logo then shows the android animation along with some minor artefacts on the screen... -
Hello, guys!
The same 32" Philips TV I was having video issues, but now I don't have standby led at all. Someone here shared with me the schematic of the power supply, and checking the voltages, I see right after the resistor R604 I'm getting 1.6 v which is too low for enabling the Gate of the Q601 mosfet (the diagram says 4.2). On the R614 resistor I'm getting 181 V in and 117 V out, then through R603 I'm getting the same 117 V in and 59.9 V out, finally getting the latter voltage in the R604 BUT getting just 1.6 V out, which is the voltage that goes on to the Gate of the Q601... -
Philips 8200 series 65PUS8204/12 stuck at Philips Logo, it does not reboot it just stays on the logo.
It does power up when pressing the power button.
I already try the power button while plugin the plug with no result.
Also put the latest firmware autorun-TPM191E_R.001.004.100.000.upg on a MBR/FAT32 USB stick at USB port2 with no result either.
Could this be an PSU or eMMC issue ? -
I have a Philips TV that shows no signs of life when plugged in - no standby LED, no response to buttons, no noises, nothing. This model is well known for having bad caps, so I started by replacing a few of them (3x 35v 1500uf and 1x 2200uf 16v). I don't know the history of the TV but it looks like someone's been at it before because some of the solder joints looked really bad, so I re soldered them as well.
After swapping the caps I still got no signs of life so I started checking voltages, and found that the board is supplying 24v but not 12v. Here's what I measured on the connector... -
Hi all,
Wife has 2 Philips hair curling irons half defective - after learning how they're supposed to work and testing them, it turned out that both have defective power cables, and both on the same place; broken wires due to wire bending.
As they were both relatively easy to disassemble, and cables are plugged not soldered (as they can rotate in the handle), I was sure it would be easy to find replacements. But - NO! I'm unable to find anything similar on ebay or Aliexpress.
Not sure if this is something Philips proprietary, or a standard, but the cable plug...
Comment