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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Here are a few pics. I put a red arrow over the new cap that is now bad.Attached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Did you put it in the right way? Negative to negative? Looks like it is reversed.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I suspected that, but wanted to see a picture for confirmation. It is reversed when compared to the original picture at
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...7&d=1325569041
Notice how both negative (the one with the stripe) side is facing towards the RoHS label.
If this cap were put in backwards in the power supply, it would have popped immediately.
Well, good thing you ordered a spare!Last edited by retiredcaps; 01-21-2012, 04:45 AM.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Either way, it looks like those capacitors are for the audio output. Probably not critical to the operation of the TV. (Might make the audio not sound as good, though.)Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Agreed. Post #57 advice/recommendation still stands. This is in addition to the newly bloated cap on the main board.
edit:
Just so it is clear to the OP, these Capxon caps (circled in red) on the power board are the ones likely to supply power to the master and slave inverter boards (the missing 24V DC). Even though they are not bloated, they could be low on capacitance.
In lay terms, it is just like you cannot tell if an AA battery is dead or not by looking at it.
PS. Of course, regulars here will recommend changing all the caps, but we have to consider her inexperience in soldering.Attached FilesLast edited by retiredcaps; 01-21-2012, 06:39 AM.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Changing capacitors on a single layer board is not difficult especially if the OP has succeeded at changing them on a 4 layer (at least) board. I was a noob to soldering before I started repairing stuff and I still struggle to repair 2 layer boards.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Notice how both negative (the one with the stripe) side is facing towards the RoHS label........
Yep, I see it.......
And not only did I order ONE extra, I ordered ONE MORE EXTRA EXTRA...lol
So, the green caps on the power board need to be re-capped? That group of 3 measures abt. 1/2" x 1 3/8" tall, or 13x35, but the only thing I can see on them until I take them out is GF 105 P724.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Was re-reading our previous posts. The info for the capXons on the power board are for the 1500uv35 (group of 3) 2200uF16v (single)Attached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
BTW, to clarify some lingo that you guys are using.........
What is a single layer board, 2 layer board, 4 layer board, and what is OP ?
THANX GUYS YOU ARE SOOO AWESOME !!!!!!!Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
A board with single layer of copper tracks, like your power supply. Copper tracks on the bottom only.What is a single layer board,
A board with copper tracks on the upper and lower side.2 layer board,
Like a 2 layer board, only with an additional 2 layers of copper tracks inside the board that can't be seen.4 layer board,
Original Poster (you in this case)and what is OP ?Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Would these be the correct parts numbers to order replacements. I want to make sure I get the right type, size, etc..
This is (hopefully, the right one) for the 1500v35 Group of 3....
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...27483128860735
Still looking for the 16v.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Possibly the one to replace the 2200uF16v
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...2369-ND/613730Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
First link is broken but second is perfect. Panasonic FM are good for these power supplies.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
How bout this one for the group of three?
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...27540165450379Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Still getting "part not found" for that link...
35V to replace 16V is fine (the rated voltage is just the maximum voltage the capacitor can work at); but check the dimensions as a higher rated voltage will mean a bigger capacitor size.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The number @ digikey is P12369-NDComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Panasonic FM is fine for the 2200uF 16V.
I would recommend these United Chemi-con KZE for the 1500uF 35V caps.
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...1700-ND/756216
They are almost half the cost of Panasonic FR and they will fit. The FR is 16mm diameter and a whopping $1.74 each. UCC KZE are good caps as well.
BTW, the 2200uF 16V cap is obviously not part of the 24V rail because of the cap rating. The group of 3 are rated at 35V and provide the 24V DC output for the inverters.Last edited by retiredcaps; 01-21-2012, 05:23 PM.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The significance of this is that more copper acts as a heatsink as it soaks up all the heat from the soldering iron making it harder to desolder the capacitor. So recapping a power board (single layer) will be easier than a motherboard (possibly 4 or more layers).
Now the decision you have to make is do you replace ALL the caps on the power board or just the larger Capxon ones (1500uF 35V and 2200uF 16V)?
Most of us here would recommend the former and then you know all the caps are high quality brand name ones.Last edited by retiredcaps; 01-21-2012, 05:25 PM.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I would recommend these United Chemi-con KZE for the 1500uF 35V caps.
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...1700-ND/756216
They are almost half the cost of Panasonic FR and they will fit. The FR is 16mm diameter and a whopping $1.74 each. UCC KZE are good caps as well.
I Put these on my order, thank you. I am posting a list of all the other CapXons that I need.Comment
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Philips 8200 series 65PUS8204/12 stuck at Philips Logo, it does not reboot it just stays on the logo.
It does power up when pressing the power button.
I already try the power button while plugin the plug with no result.
Also put the latest firmware autorun-TPM191E_R.001.004.100.000.upg on a MBR/FAT32 USB stick at USB port2 with no result either.
Could this be an PSU or eMMC issue ? -
I have a Philips TV that shows no signs of life when plugged in - no standby LED, no response to buttons, no noises, nothing. This model is well known for having bad caps, so I started by replacing a few of them (3x 35v 1500uf and 1x 2200uf 16v). I don't know the history of the TV but it looks like someone's been at it before because some of the solder joints looked really bad, so I re soldered them as well.
After swapping the caps I still got no signs of life so I started checking voltages, and found that the board is supplying 24v but not 12v. Here's what I measured on the connector... -
Hi
I have here a Philips 47PFS7509/12 LCD TV which came to me with a weird problem : without signal i could access menu, make a factory reset, access menus, etc.
When i applied cable signal to check image, i had normal picture, but TV was restarting.
I downloaded original firmware and applied the update, but the problem remained.
From a colleague i received a "factory package software" which is a lot bigger.
I made another firmware update, but still did not solve the problem.
Somewhere on the way the error got worse, because at the moment the... -
Hello,
I've got a really strange issue with the speakers on my Philips 43PUS7506/12. It makes this awful loud buzzing now. It happened after it was attempted to be wall mounted - I think the back got squeezed and something broke.
I thought maybe the speakers got damaged, so I replaced them - no dice.- Using the internal speakers, it always happens.
- Using the headphone jack, it never happens.
- Using the digital/optical out with a soundbar - it happens after about 2h/movie runtime - it's never as drastic, it just pops in and out, but I didn't want it to damage the sound bar
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Hello Team,
New issue on LCD panel where I need to find out the cause and the potential solution.
This is on the Philips 50PUH6400, the LCD panel is an INNOLUX V500dk2 xrs1.
I have image, on the right side, the image is more or less normal even if there is a small blur on edge, on the left there is an issue.
When moving up and down in the menu on the right the image is slow to disappear, and is darker, like red/brown.
I've checked voltages, no issue found comparing right and left side of the panel driver.
VHG VGL CKV... are the sames on...
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