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Last edited by c_hegge; 01-13-2015, 11:33 PM.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
WHOA. That's enough for about 10 CPU's, and they're spreading it all over the place.
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
He made a meal out of fitting that !!Comment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
I wonder how many shitheads watched that and squirted the whole tube on the processor then watch the compound ooze out the sides when they clamp down the heatsink.
LOL!Comment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
"Comments are disabled for this Video" ,I wonder why, bet there would have been a few good ones if it was left open LOLComment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
i remember posting a foto from a dual athlon board where the silicone grease was oozing out between the cpu & heatsink.Comment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
I once bought a board with a Sempron on it that looked like that. And it was cheap compound that was a bitch to clean up, too.Comment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
It's a filler compound, he is trying to fill a hole in the cpu...LOL
btw that has to be one of the worst cpu cooler designs I've seenComment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
An Asus.Attached FilesComment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
Speaking of heat sink compound overuse, I was repairing a stereo amplifier using an STK module, there was so much heat sink compound everywhere that it was simply a royal mess, gooped off the edges, was like bead of heat sink compound all the way around the module.
Fortunately a stereo amplifier, even though it was also made for 50W/channel (so 100W) is huge compared to CPU dies and overuse wasn't too bad... but it could have been much better (perhaps this is why I had to replace it in the first place.)Comment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
It seems like most laptop procs look like that when you remove the heatsink, not just Asus. It can be a pain to get it all off in between all the SMD componentsComment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
I agree Pentium4, I just had that to hand on my desk this morning.Comment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
MSI = MeSSI? (as in, messy)
Reminds me of those small Pentium 3 heatsinks with loud screamer fans running at 5k RPM. Ugh!Originally posted by 3d0
At least the Pentium 3 and Socket 462 heatsinks had a nice retention mechanism that didn't warp the boards like crazy.
I think all major manufacturers over-apply thermal compound. I've seen it on Xbox 360 CPUs/GPUs as well. Royal pain to clean if you try to remove it with just rubbing alcohol and paper towel. I usually use a small flat-head screw driver to scrape it off. However, to anyone who hasn't tried that and doesn't have a steady hand - be careful! It's not very hard to scratch traces and ruin the CPU/GPU.Originally posted by Pentium4
Also, some manufacturers use that pink or yellow "chewing gum" crap that hardens and is impossible to clean off with IPA alone. The Radeon 9700 and 9800 used a thick layer of that stuff. No wonder so many of them died, even though they used the good old tough leaded solder for the BGA.Last edited by momaka; 01-15-2015, 03:05 PM.Comment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
I usually use Acetone for that. Seems to do the trick.Comment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
Acetone might also eat the CPU socket and any surrounding plastics.
Wouldn't recommend myself.Comment
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Cap Datasheet Depot: http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/
^If you have datasheets not listed PM meComment
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Re: For crying out loud MSI...
I use turpentine for cleaning. So far, I have not noticed it damage anything and it's safe to power up before it's dried.Comment
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I have peltir element glued to heatsink with something thick and sticky like putty... it cant be separate with force or heat without risk of breaking ceramic or damaged semiconductor layers due to force (eg if try twisted, pulled, lifted)... method that I am using is a single thread for needle (thin and firm thread of pure polyester that cant break with bare hands without glowes), and using it like a saw between heatsink and peltir. I holding a heatsink with knee against table. It slowly cut throug putty and release glued parts. It is slow proces, but preserve undamaged component and heatsink....
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Hello everyone,
I'm looking to upgrade the heatsink on the main processor of my TV's motherboard for better cooling performance.
The current heatsink is a square-shaped one (2.8cm x 2.8cn) with a basic design, and I believe a more efficient heatsink could help with thermal management and potentially extend the life of the TV.
I'd appreciate any advice on the best type of heatsink to use, specific product recommendations, and tips for installation.
If you've done a similar upgrade, I'd love to hear about your experience and any challenges you... -
Hello,
I've got a really strange issue with the speakers on my Philips 43PUS7506/12. It makes this awful loud buzzing now. It happened after it was attempted to be wall mounted - I think the back got squeezed and something broke.
I thought maybe the speakers got damaged, so I replaced them - no dice.- Using the internal speakers, it always happens.
- Using the headphone jack, it never happens.
- Using the digital/optical out with a soundbar - it happens after about 2h/movie runtime - it's never as drastic, it just pops in and out, but I didn't want it to damage the sound bar
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I have RX26PG2 graphic card with incomplete original heatsink, only aluminium plate... but in original solution it look like such bad termal design that I asking if is proper fanless heatsink be adequate replacement ot better... what you think? Till powering on, it is propper hot......
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Hi. Not our mainstream line of work - we work with digital mostly. Will study the schematic found on the internet. The output darlington transistors appear to be ok. Even with no input, the output is extremely loud with static / crackle / pop. Any ideas? Will post more details and fix as we continue the review. Have not checked the main power supply rails yet (+-40V and +-16V).
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