Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off
just looking around a few threads here
did find a link to Hermei LZ series, These are suppose to be Ultra low ESR
(and they might be for all of 5 minutes
)
original thread
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...&highlight=lcd
So if they were LZ series then FM series possibly would have been the choice for the specs of the LZ crap
although I tend to find around the FC range of caps being suggested for this type of application
Humm anyway, if FC (or any cap for that matter) are run out of spec they will eventually die the same way.
It really depends on the actual circuit demands even if they are LZ
Just on the PCB I would guess it isn't in the high quality league and is probably a single sided PCB so when removing the caps try not to dump too much heat into it or you could lift the copper (like don't hold the iron on it for a minute)
Also if you got no desolder gear check the FAQ's and use a Needle STAINLESS Steel to clear the holes
Its quicker and less chance of damage from stuffing around with desolder pumps....if you haven't clear it with one of those by the second attempt, run the needle through.
should be easier to do them trying to get VRM caps out of a MB.
Lastly give the solder side a good visual check especially were the transformers are or any components mounted to heat sinks
if you notice discoloration around these area's thats from heat, it can actually warp the PCB
what happens is expansion and contraction on the solder joint with fixed components can cause the solder joint to fracture
(hair line thats sometimes is hard to see)
rework any joints that are suspect in this regard is my advice but there also "if it ain't broke don't fix it" too
Good luck and post back on it, its nice to have a conclusion
Cheers Mike, All
just looking around a few threads here
did find a link to Hermei LZ series, These are suppose to be Ultra low ESR
(and they might be for all of 5 minutes

original thread
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...&highlight=lcd
So if they were LZ series then FM series possibly would have been the choice for the specs of the LZ crap
although I tend to find around the FC range of caps being suggested for this type of application
Humm anyway, if FC (or any cap for that matter) are run out of spec they will eventually die the same way.
It really depends on the actual circuit demands even if they are LZ
Just on the PCB I would guess it isn't in the high quality league and is probably a single sided PCB so when removing the caps try not to dump too much heat into it or you could lift the copper (like don't hold the iron on it for a minute)
Also if you got no desolder gear check the FAQ's and use a Needle STAINLESS Steel to clear the holes
Its quicker and less chance of damage from stuffing around with desolder pumps....if you haven't clear it with one of those by the second attempt, run the needle through.
should be easier to do them trying to get VRM caps out of a MB.
Lastly give the solder side a good visual check especially were the transformers are or any components mounted to heat sinks
if you notice discoloration around these area's thats from heat, it can actually warp the PCB
what happens is expansion and contraction on the solder joint with fixed components can cause the solder joint to fracture
(hair line thats sometimes is hard to see)
rework any joints that are suspect in this regard is my advice but there also "if it ain't broke don't fix it" too
Good luck and post back on it, its nice to have a conclusion
Cheers Mike, All

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