Those prices make no logical sense. You can easily just buy a EFI programmer and do the work yourself. Why pay a website something very expensive to do that when it's something that is free if you do it yourself? Obviously as a service you will charge for your labor but this makes no Logical sense to pay these websites for unlocking services to an extent. I can understand paying them for checking IMEI, or FMI, OR MDM etc. but paying them to remove the locks seems unreasonable to me if you have the capabilities in doing it yourself if you have the right tools.
Also that software relies...
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Ok I figured out what is going on with your issue. So Apple has indeed changed some way to remove the MDM, but however it is not as crazy as you believe. Upon further investigation we have a normal customer that purchases pallets from schools etc with an R2 certification however, they understand that they cannot bother the companies with the removal of MDM if they fail to remove it (per rules of their contract) the process would then move to our shop, we just got a batch of computers that had MDM locks on them, inspecting the serials they are indeed locked however we will not contact that company,...Last edited by Stephen; 03-21-2024, 01:10 PM.
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Update: the serial number I checked was just rejected. It appears you have to use VALID serial numbers from Apple now. Ill update with my findings soon...Last edited by Stephen; 03-21-2024, 12:34 PM.
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This is not the case, if you got this computer from the customer and it wanted the iCloud removed and another showed up, this means the computer was bypassed, iCloud information is not stored on the serial number it is stored on the T2 chip. The serial only has to match for the T2 chip to verify with the server, however the serial has nothing to do with activation, it has everything to do with the T2 chip. FOR example, if a company has an MDM lock on the device, they never sign into the T2 chip or register it because it is tied to just the serial hence changing the serial will result in a free...
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Wanted to update, it seems it doesn't power on anymore now, no water spill nothing, stays at 5.118Volts and .006amps. sometimes coming to .011 amps. I wonder if the battery could be the issue?
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Source a good known battery like mon2 stated. Whoever said you don’t need a battery to DFU is some what correct and incorrect. But most likely you will need a good known battery to DFU correctly. Try that first then proceed further
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Sleep issue seems to be going on with the board, I would pull up the schematics and look at the sleep area and use a good known logic board and check the readings on each area related to sleep. Could have a simple resistor that is failed or cap, not 100% but without knowing what your readings are it would be hard to help until we get some readings. Do you have board view and tools to repair the board?
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MacBook Pro 14" M1 Pro Turns on functions then turns off when I plug in USB C cable
MacBook Pro 14" M1 Pro Turns on functions then turns off when I plug in USB C cable to reset the computer. I disconnect the battery fully and then reconnect it and it won't turn back on. After letting it sit for a day I plug the battery back up, and the MagSafe 3 cable and it powers on and stays ons, once I plug in a USB C cable into the port closes to the MagSafe port it turns off and the Amber light turns off and won't turn on. No water damage, nothing, I want to do a DFU restore to wipe the computer since the customer stated they did an update and ever since it just decided to not work...Last edited by Stephen; 03-15-2024, 09:51 AM.
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Hello, now coming back to this computer. Still boots and runs fine for one minute then crashes and repeats once it warms up. Any idea where I can look on the board to fix this issue? Would like to know where to start for this. Easy fix I believe but would love to know where to start. Thanks again.
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Again those may be POWER IC chips. Looks like it. I may be wrong. Power IC chips are part of the process for the board to turn on hence POWER. If you have a board schematic (highly doubt it) I may be wrong. But again a THERMAL IMAGER will most likely be your best bet to see if any shorts are showing. Since there may not be any schematics out for these particular boards, a Thermal imager and a donor board is your best option.
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That area looks like Power IC chips, I may be wrong since I have yet to get my hand these models. Most likely that area of corrosion is your culprit why it is not working. I would get a Thermal imager handing and see where any shorts may show. These are new so repairs on these may be a little different....
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Can you show us the type of MacBook Charger you are using? I am curious about that first hand. We do not want you to continue using a KNOCK OFF NON OEM charger, most of these issues could arise from hot plugging, however, knock off chargers are known to frying the port even if you plug it in correctly and not send the voltage down the wrong rail. If it doesn't have an Apple Logo on the brick chances I would do is throw that charger away and get a used OEM one online. Not a new one from Amazon or wherever. Secondly, if one port is fried and causing issues but all the other ports are working, I...
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I replaced UC300 and then I found a short on the board after doing that. Why is UT620 shorted? this is the power Touch ID area? That area was reaching 320 degrees and higher that is ABNORMALLY high for a short.
I replaced that chip, but it keeps shorting out, so something is forcing that area to keep shoring. When that area is replaced the board jumps up to .45 amps then drops down to .33amps and stays until that area gets super hot. It came back once I replaced UC300. So I am assuming this is the cause why this board is not turning on.
checking further Q5840 is showing...Last edited by Stephen; 03-04-2024, 05:02 PM.
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Update: swapped out good MacBook top case with good board and put the board we fixed into the top case, battery was left at 30 percent charge. No power, no DFU showing up or recovery, no shorts presently showing on Thermal Imager. When trying to attempt DFU input, the meter shoots up to .28 amps staying at 5Volts. :/
When holding power button only, no spike in amps, but when you input the exact DFU keys the meter spikes up to .30 amps then stays at .28amps then once you let go, it drops to .02 amps
Upon checking further: it seems the UC300 Rail has no power on the ENABLE...Last edited by Stephen; 03-04-2024, 04:13 PM.
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