From the main board while doing the voltage test, i got 3.47vdc from pins 5,6,7. The caps at c710 reads 1.88vdc, c702 reads 3.48vdc while both c705&c716 reads 5.51vdc. I found one cap at c433 with zero volt , no voltage whatsoever. It...
mikey5791
Badcaps Veteran
Last Activity: 01-31-2024, 02:43 AM
Joined: 12-19-2014
Location: Sabah
-
For your info, the 5V is not present at the 5V test point at TCON board. From the power board at the output pins CN902 and doing dc voltage test, i got 5.50v from pins 8,9,10 (+5V). In addition, i got about 30v from pin 4(+15V). I also did voltage test at caps C908 and C907 and the positive side i got 31vdc. Not sure if these readings are normal.
From the main board while doing the voltage test, i got 3.47vdc from pins 5,6,7. The caps at c710 reads 1.88vdc, c702 reads 3.48vdc while both c705&c716 reads 5.51vdc. I found one cap at c433 with zero volt , no voltage whatsoever. It... -
Yes, it is 786 ohms on continuity reading. That means there is resistance. If the reading is "0" zero on my digital multimeter it means complete continuity.,no resistance whatsoever.
I will try to trace why the 5v is missing from TCON board.Leave a comment:
-
By DMM set to continuity mode, TCON board connector disconnected from main board, my black probe on pin 4 ground while red probe on VIN test point, i got reading of 786. If i put my DMM black probe on the furthest right side ground copper plane near the brown sticker, i got reading of 623.
By the way, where else can i check for possible short? Kindly assist.Leave a comment:
-
Based on your reply, my understanding is the 5v pin should be last five pins on the right side of the connector. By DMM resistance test set to 2k scale, black probe on ground near CN1 and red probe on the 5v pin(as mentioned up here), i got "1" infinite reading. I attached an image of my 5v pin test point as shown by tip of a ball pen. Correct me if i am wrong.
To your question earlier, the TCON was attached to main board.
Fyi, on the right side of connector there is a white color component with "I" marking which i think is a fuse. It has continuity. There is also...Leave a comment:
-
From my DMM resistance set to 2K, red probe on the 5V pin and black probe on ground near CN1 pin on the LVDS connector i got resistance of 0.268
The sticker on display panel says LM185WH2 (T2)(BB) from L&T Display but i couldn't find any info from Panelook.com
Attached image of the LVDS connector....Leave a comment:
-
Fyi, the monitor does not display any image if i connect the flex ribbon cable and the power led indicator does not light up or turn on. That is the reason i suspect somewhere is shorted as the power led indicator on the front side is not lighted.Leave a comment:
-
Philips 196V3L monitor power led off
Hi, i was given this lcd monitor last week with the issue of power led blinking. Upon checking the power board, i found 2 pieces electrolytic caps bulged and replaced them.
Later, when i switched on ac power and detected 5v and 15v dc at output pins. But as soon as i pressed on the front power button, the led on power button lights for 1 second and it turns off.
So, i tried disconnect the flex ribbon cable from t con board. But all i got is a white screen with nothing on. I suspect there is something short somewhere that prevent the display being turned on. Can someone with... -
Hi all,
Thanks for all the help and suggestions received so far. It is very likely i will abandon this project to revive the motor due to the cost of finding brushes and holders unless i come across the same motor again.
However, i gained more knowledge on "vacuum cleaner motor" and its related component which will be useful if i ever encounter another similar incident.
Leave a comment:
-
Yes, the carbon brushes or holders are confirmed missing. I used a string to measure the outer diameter of the shiny part (commutator) and it is about 10cm.
My next questions are:
1) Is it possible to get the right kind/size of carbon brushes with springs behind
2) Any item i can use to hold the carbon brushes or modded item as holder of the brushes
3) Is it possible to get this motor running after the first two issues are resolved?
Looking forward for any kind of help to get this motor working....Leave a comment:
-
How do i power the brushes? Fyi, i am clueless on which component are the brushes....Leave a comment:
-
Thanks for the reply.
Fyi, i applied 12vdc from a computer psu but it does not spin. Then i applied 12vac from a wall wart adapter, it does not spin either. Didn't see any thermal cutouts /fuses but i tested for continuity from the spade connector to the black wire and it has continuity. I did the same continuity test on the other spade connector to the other black wire and it has continuity too.
Any other suggestions please kindly share.
Thank you....Leave a comment:
-
Help identify this motor
Hi all forum members,
Found this unknown motor discarded in a junk yard and took home for learning experience. By the look of it, I suspect it is taken out from a type of air blower probably running on ac power. I used digital multimeter on ohm/resistance scale and it doesn't read anything on those 2 black wires. So, this motor is not shorted and should be good to run.
Correct me if i am wrong on the initial test.
Can anyone kindly advice on how to test run this motor based on visible external two black wires. Fyi, i don't see any marking on the motor body nor smell anything... -
Re: Need help replacing led strip on Iiyama monitor
Measured the led size of old broken strip on LBM230P1603 and it is module type 8520(8.5mmx2.0mm) which is the same type leds on the HP strip.
Done soldered a jumpwire by connecting to anode side(+) of led no.51 as mentioned on earlier post. Switched on power and led lights up from led no.1 to led no.30. At least a little progress up to now. I wondered why the rest of led from led no.31 to no.51 not lighting up.
Checked the whole strip and found led no.30 and no.31 not connected. The other led on led...Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help replacing led strip on Iiyama monitor
Hi,
Attached picture of led no.51 which was cut to length to fit inside the Iiyama monitor backlight casing.
After cutting i used dc3v AA size battery to test the led on no.50 and no.51 separately. They still lit up fine. (I had label the(+) and (-) in blue for positive and negative side respectively.)
Is my label of the red jumpwire suppose to work and will light up the whole led strip? Please give your comment and advice if i got it all wrong. Thank you....Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need help replacing led strip on Iiyama monitor
Thanks for quick reply.
Attached picture i made a cut after led no.51 and i tried a jumpwire to connect the scratched horizontal line to positive side of the led no.51, but no lights on led. Fyi, i am using led no.60 being the last led as guide line on how the connection works.
Appreciate your further assistance if possible. Thank you....Leave a comment:
-
Need help replacing led strip on Iiyama Prolite XUB2390HS monitor
Hi,
Got this working ips led monitor by the brand of
Iiyama Prolite XUB2390HS presumably a 23 inch type given to me with suspected bad led backlight. To test it, i unplugged the bad flat ribbon type connector and plugged it a good flat ribbon led connector scrapped from a HP Pavillion 27cw (led strip with 60 led). Good news is the HP led strip lights up but not fully, in between there are about 15 unlit leds.(as picture attached shows).
Fyi, i had not opened and removed the old bad led strip. My question is whether is it possible to cut some of the extra leds(say... -
Re: Need help building a cheap ac dc adapter
Trying my best effort to sketch a rough schematic. Looking at my attached image of the first pcb with the 2A glass fuse on the upper right side corner, i am labelling the diode nearest to fuse as D1, then next to it is D2. The last diode is D9 as shown on bottom of pcb. Hope this helps....Leave a comment:
-
Need help building a cheap ac dc adapter
Found these two pcb from my junk bin and unsure if i can reuse them to build an ac to dc adapter of 12vdc. If i remembered correctly, these pcbs could be from a damaged fluorescent light set box.
The first pcb is with 2A glass fuse, 4 pieces 1N4007 diode, one black inductor, 2 pieces 22uf250v big cap, one blue 630v ceramic cap, 2 pieces green 104k ceramic cap, another 4 pieces 1N4007 diode and one brown MZ2 cap. To me, this looks like the primary supply in dc form.
The second pcb has 2 pieces 13005 transistor on the side mixed with resistors, 2 green 334k green ceramic caps and finally... -
Re: Help needed on unstable HP power supply
After keeping this unstable hp power supply for almost one year, i suspected IC501 (TNY287PG) is faulty and with no exact replacement i decided to try with TOP258PN. In addition, i also desoldered two electrolytic caps at c503 and another one near c504. The original type is 120uf 35v with esr over 0.10 ohm, so i replaced with 330uf 35v for testing.
Upon power on, while with fuse removed and connected to a 60 watt bulb as current limiter, the bulb lightly dim and no more blinking and no clicking sound. The psu fan spins briefly less...Leave a comment:
-
Re: Dell laptop model PP24L won't start from ac adapter
Had been occupied with other matters until recently i changed both the bad resistors to 1k ohm type. Wow, the laptop is powering up to windows after i installed all the board, cables, connectors, etc.
Thank you to all the forum members whom had contributed their time and effort to help diagnose this dead laptop to working condition.
...
Leave a comment:
No activity results to display
Leave a comment: