the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
Correct ESR is probably more of a concern, with a cheap PSU, capacitors with ESR too low can actually make ripple and noise worse.
I guess you should base that off the original capacitors."Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHornComment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
As for the ratings of the caps to use, ben7 did provide good ratings, but those are total capacitance. so on the 12V, for example, you could use two 2200uF caps. I'm pretty sure that PSU had room for two caps on the 12V rail.
Probably go with Panasonic FC or Nichicon PW series for this PSU.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
I'd actually say "don't bother" replacing the primary caps on such a cheap poor quality psu. The ones that are now are probably good enough.
Also, probably not really recommended to go up to 3300uF on 3.3v, might be too much for such psu. 2200uF is probably more than enough.
Use 10v rated caps for 3.3v and 5v, from a series with not so low esr, like Panasonic FC, Nichicon PW etcComment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
King World Enterprises, Proprietary Limidet(?!). No Serviceable Components- Inside. Well, they're right about that at least. The poor tiny transformer even says "YME" on it! In fact, it looks smaller than the one out of the 50W PlayStation 2 I disassembled a while ago. The upside? I have another 80mm fan to add to my collection and a PCB with 18 caps waiting to pop outside on 240V.
This thing struggled to power an office PC consisting of a single 10GB Quantum Fireball HDD, a CD-ROM drive, a floppy and a mainboard which didn't even have an AGP slot (the BIOS chip sits in its place). The only add-on card in fact was a 16-pin 56k modem, which was in its own port, blocking the topmost PCI slot. Everything on this PC was (presumably) factory, right down to the single stick of PC133 SDRAM and 800MHz Celeron. The 3 PCI slots and single ISA slot were seemingly never used, and the fan is almost spotless, no dust at all.
Upon plugging in my trusty old 110W Delta PSU, the board came to life immediately, defaulting to May 26 2001.
When I had found this PC, it had minor water damage, there was rust on the rear ports, and the cables had been cut - ATX/Molex cables, even the cables for the LEDs on the front panel and the CD-ROM audio cable (the HDD/floppy cables weren't touched however). Additionally, someone had obviously thrown it around as the case was missing the front panel and was slightly bent, along with the floppy and CD drive being trashed (the tray was completely ripped out!).
Admittedly, the case itself was made of such thin, flimsy metal that I could cut it with tin snips, it wasn't aluminum though since it was magnetic. I haven't yet tried the hard drive, however the floppy somehow still works after being straightened back out. There are no markings on the board saying what it is, but it is most definitely a variant of this board, the only difference being a 32-pin socketed AMI BIOS being in place of the QFP chip on that page, and the fact that my board has an ISA slot.
The mainboard's caps are a mixture of G-Luxon LZ, SM and SX. Surprisingly, none are bloated unlike the PSU which uses the usual Chinese crap like JEE (primaries), HEC and even Rulycon in this case (the two bloated caps around the 5V rail, and the rest of the black general purpose caps). Also of note, check out the middle "FET" strapped to the heatsink!
The PSU also had one inhabitant, which seemed to be a small redback/widow spider of some sort (however it had no red markings, and the abdomen was only 1/8" or 3mm in size).Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
OMG, dual-diode treatmentThe transformer really seems to be good for 100 W at most.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry!Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
Exclusive caps, meters and more!Hardware Insights - power supply reviews and more!Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
Mmmm Rulycon... They fail without bloating most of the time, they just dry out, so i wouldn't be surprised that those are at fault for the demise of this PSU. Not that it's worth anything other than scavenging for parts.Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
I wonder what the schottky's are capable of in that... and if its fan is half-decent... as well as the switching transitor(s)... I'm willing to bet that transformer is fake too..... even the values on the label look underpar for a 250W (and they themselves are obviously lies). IMO. that's more like a 75W PSU (continuously)... I'm also willing to bet that it's less than 60% efficient.
EDIT: In that case, we're looking at a 50-60W continuous PSU... maybe even less...Last edited by Wester547; 07-25-2012, 07:16 PM.Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
The thingy is, 75 W was more than enough for most PIII systems…got here an HP Brio BA410 system with 80 W high-quality PSU insideLess jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry!Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
Exclusive caps, meters and more!Hardware Insights - power supply reviews and more!Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
...Oh Deer.
If you add up the values on the rails you get 256.2W, so at least they were reasonably close with the addition. The HD30D40PT is a 30A part, presumably serving the 3.3 and 5V rails, I'd say that's within the spec given. I can't read the number on the rearmost diodes but if that's for 12V it looks reasonable for a 10A part, although given the way the diodes-on-a-bracket are mounted maybe they're for 12V...
The transformer is probably good for 100W. I have a 95W laptop AC adapter and its transformer is qutie a bit smaller.Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
That would have made for a pretty good fireworks displayI love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
Originally posted by b700029I have a 95W laptop AC adapter and its transformer is qutie a bit smaller.
And that "King World" must have a very weak switching transistor.Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
For example, in the psu discussion thread I posted a HP adapter and its insides and it's a 18.5v @ 3.5A (65w) model - for such voltage/current combo there's no need for a big transformer.
Heat is an issue long term as it can dry out the caps but the temperature usually stabilizes at a certain point so there's no problem with them. Also, the laptops don't really use the maximum the adapters can handle ex this 65w adapter probably averages 35-40 watts throughout the laptop use.Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
Most of the original ones can probably do their ratings, but I don't know about some of the cheap fleabay replacements.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
I worry a bit about my Toshiba's power adaptor though. There are no vents, and the thing gets damn hot under full load, in fact they even have a warning label on it about it getting hot.
It's the original part but the OEM is AcBel, so I'm a bit sceptical about what brand capacitors they've used, considering the AcBel from my Power Mac was mostly full of crappy Teapo.
Problem is, it's all welded shut, no screws. I don't really want to cut it open until I can find a way to get it back together again nicely. Duct tape works but looks horrible."Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHornComment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
True, as can be seen here: http://electricstuff.co.uk/acadapter.html
I worry a bit about my Toshiba's power adaptor though. There are no vents, and the thing gets damn hot under full load, in fact they even have a warning label on it about it getting hot.
It's the original part but the OEM is AcBel, so I'm a bit sceptical about what brand capacitors they've used, considering the AcBel from my Power Mac was mostly full of crappy Teapo.
Problem is, it's all welded shut, no screws. I don't really want to cut it open until I can find a way to get it back together again nicely. Duct tape works but looks horrible.
I find it helps to keep the AC adapter on the floor and not on a shelf or something like. And it's likely the AcBel AC adapter has Teapo's as well (not sure if there would be room for much variety capacitor wise in an AC adapter). Though Teapos should do okay as long as they don't get hot in such an operating condition. One of my family's old Toshiba laptops also has a 75W (15V * 5A = 75W, 2.0A input rating) AcBel AC adapter and after 13,000 hours of use and 12,000 power cycles it's still going. Granted, I don't let it get hot, but I'm not sure of its history heat wise. I've also heard that there are little rubber feet that hide the screws on AC adapters, that you can peel off, though I don't know if that's the case with yours.Last edited by Wester547; 07-26-2012, 12:04 AM.Comment
-
Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame
^
Teapos are gonna get pretty toasty in an AC adapter.I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!
No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards
Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium
Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 ProComment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by bauto601Back in 2020 i bought a (2nd hand) compact ATX psu to replace my current one. My PC case only fits very short ATX power supplies so i didn't really have the choice of buying a decent 80Plus unit. The current unit is a modded YoungYear unit that i made a thread about a while ago:
A "nice" YoungYear unit? - Badcaps
The "new" unit is a KDM-M6480 480W psu, the 480W number is a typical KDM bullshit claim of course, but the 24A rating on the 12V rail seemed reasonable and the "Active PFC" claim gave me a bit of hope that this was going to be decent-ish.... -
by eccerr0rIntroducing... the POS-124Z which really is a POS:
Yep it's a POS allright.
I tried powering it up. It's a KILLER - not fried, but sure will fry things! I got 21V out of it unloaded according to my DMM!
I tried 21W load (car lamp) - got 16V, which is really pushing that lamp.
Then I tried a 50W load (car headlight) - got 13.2V. Not too bad but this is with the heavy load...except the circuit breaker kept tripping.
So I had to take a peek:
EIEW. Looks like a Darlington emitter follower + Zener device. Heatsinking?... -
by tamerelaputeHi,
I'm learning electronics(already have some basics) by fixing a FH52M LA-J891P rev1B. It come from an acer nitro 5. The charger was defaulting upon pluging. The 19V rail resistance is 0ohm (I believe that caps screw my measurement). When i inject 5A, I get a rail tension of 1.3V, and 0.8V vcccore.
Except the cpu, I cant feel anything getting warmer.
I believe that it is normal, because the cpu is "eating" half the power I'm imputing.
I dont know if the cpu is fried, because I did not remove the big capacitor on vcccore.
I believe that if the cpu was fried,... -
by Per HanssonWhile our PSU hall of shame thread is fun I thought It'd be fun to have a ripple hall of shame thread too
I'll go first out, it's an industrial PSU that offers +15v -15v -5v +5v rails.
However it has been mounted on a frame with DC/DC converters for producing +12v and -12v as well.
The caps for this have gone a bit high ESR
The measured ripple is around 1700mV, or 1.7v!
After recapping the ripple is gone, also note that the scale on the scope is 50mV/div instead of 500mV per div in this shot
-And that's how you know you have a qualifying... -
by amuse619Hello!
Looks like I fried something when my EDP cable got squeezed on the hinge. I replaced the cable but still no display. Laptop works fine with external monitor connected through HDMI and Display Port-USB C port. I took it apart and I see a burnt component. Can anyone help me identify what this component is? I tried to use schematics for another G15 but it does not match on the amount of pins and size. I attached pictures. The component has a label on it - (21A29)
Laptop is a Asus G15 Advantage Edition 2021 Laptop Ryzen 9 5980HX - 6800M...2 Photos - Loading...
- No more items.
Comment