I am writing this because I came looking for the same information but couldn't find anything. There are certain model tvs that will have 2 or more different backlight strip configurations and there is often no way to tell exactly what you have without disassembling the panel. Twice now I have run into this issue and ended up ordering the wrong sets BOTH times. The previous TV I reordered the correct ones and went on my way. The second one I had no patience for returns or reorders, let alone peeling the brand new strips back out and risk damaging them.
The number of LEDs per pair is...
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Backlight Reflector Modification
Last edited by x_orange90_x; 03-12-2024, 08:40 AM.
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Wow that one does sound cheap! I cracked a Samsung curved trying to open it because the entire back is screw less. It snaps together all over and it wouldn't let go in one of the corners so the screen fractured.
A tip that usually works for me with screws is to turn it backwards slowly until you feel it drop in the groove of the thread. It usually makes a slight click sound. Then you know you're in the thread.
Putting this particular tv back together the other night was a pita because none of the corners wanted to live up with the screw holes. It was like it shrunk while...
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I gave up on diagnosing the original board and just ordered one from eBay. I put it in last night and the tv is working great.
My advice to anyone else with this model power supply is to just get a replacement. There's too many things that fail on it and getting it working may only buy a little bit of time before another component fails....
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It looks like it can't be either of those. 600 M ohms would be a huge resistor, and from what I'm finding .06 ohm doesn't even exist.
I can't find a schematic for this board either
Edit: wow this is frustrating. I can't find a schematic, therefore I can't see on paper what the value is supposed to be. Likewise, searching for the board number and "R9022" turns up absolutely nothing. And to top it off I'm finding this exact same model board with a completely different 5 band resistor instead of the 4 band I have....Last edited by x_orange90_x; 02-22-2024, 06:20 AM.
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using the tool on DigiKey I get either 600M ohms or .06 ohm depending on the color is the third band, which I'm not positive if it's grey or silver. Can you tell what color it is?
Also, my reading of 0.00 ohms means my resistor is bad, right?
Edit: it has to be silver because that's .06 Ohms. Grey would be 600 MegaOhms. I can't however find a .06 Ohms resistor online....Last edited by x_orange90_x; 02-22-2024, 05:35 AM.
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I replaced the diode on the bottom and I STILL have the same symptoms!
Edit: I removed a leg of that resistor and checked it. It reads 0.00 ohm 😑Last edited by x_orange90_x; 02-21-2024, 10:32 PM.
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I'm trying to source a replacement right now. I'm going to call a local electronics store later to see if they carry these, but if they don't I'll have to order some. The SK310C I asked about is too far off spec wise. Comparison of those two are attached
Ir is blank on the datasheet for the SK310C....
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black, blue, silver, gold is correct. When I looked it up I got 600 M ohms. Maybe I did something wrong
I checked other resistors on the board and got similar oddball readings. I think the resistor ok. That one diode on the bottom has been mentioned on these forums several times as causing these symptoms. It's surface mount, so if I take it off to test I'd be replacing it as well....
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Attached is a photo of it. I don't really understand how to interpret the readings from either of my meters as far as resistance goes. I don't get a clear "600 M ohm" or even .600. I get whole numbers with decimals and they'll move around between 20 and 200 ranges...Last edited by x_orange90_x; 02-20-2024, 10:11 AM.
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Last night I checked out a few things. First I tried heating up that capacitor and powering on. No change. Then I checked that resistor. It's supposed to be 600Mohms, and my meter being auto ranging showed it as 1.2. I'm not sure what that means, but it's showing resistance so I assume it's good. Last I checked that transistor. I was getting funny readings from it (different measurements between base/collector as base/emitter) so I replaced it. Also NO CHANGE. I still am getting power cycling and that buzz/tick sound in the video I shared earlier.
Whatever is bad literally prevents...Last edited by x_orange90_x; 02-20-2024, 06:00 AM.
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I have a feeling it's that transistor. I will check that, the resistor, and that capacitor tonight. Id like to have kits of components on hand so I don't have to order so often. Like variety kits of transistors, diodes, resistors. Does anyone else keep stock like that, or just order what's needed when it's needed?
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See if this works:
[url]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FOrGVKVBfTbpG88ZSvRLBThGiyjUOYm8/view?usp=drivesdk[/url]https://See if this works:<br /> <br...drivesdk[/url]...
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