Still on the hunt for schems for this board(RDENCA235WJQZ) went to tomsservicemanuals looked at several Sharp models cross referenced by shopjimmy... Nada
Does anyone have any suggestions on where to look next?
Is this to just establish standby? Does the board have to be reinstalled. If the lamp stays bright then disconnect immediately?
What's the reason for a 75w lamp why not a 60 or 100?
60~100W will be fine too, the main key is that the lamp should not stay bright when you apply the power to the TV without activating the power switch, it should flash brightly then dim down, if it stays bright, it means you still have short circuit, at the same time when the lamp stays bright it will limit the voltage applied to the TV so no further damage will be doen to the TV since most voltage will appear on the lamp.
Thanks, that's a great reference but unfortunately it looks like that model has a RDENCA231WJQZ board-my board is an RDENCA235WJQZ- similar but I doubt the same. I will keep looking around, thanks again!
It looks identical to my PSU board, so it should be close enough. The only difference to me is a missing filter choke probably for the US version, the EMI restrictions are lesser there maybe.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Tom, it is the exact same physical board, if you notice the stamp on the board, the check boxes include 231-235-237. I'm totally game to try this approach after all u know way more than I do. I started down the path from input with this schem everything I saw so far matched-incidentally do u see where the relay is? I've checked the bridge and noodled around some of the power devices but that it. can u point me down the path or do I need to try powering up again as suggested ?
Budm, I was so excited by the prospect of having schems I almost missed your reply,thanks for clarifying! I just wanted to have confidence that I wouldn't make the situation worse. Oh ya does the board need to be totally reconnected?
Just the power supply board and the AC input filter board, the relay (RL7001) is turn on by the main board to by pass the inrush current limiters thermistors (TH7000/7001) otherwise the standby power supply will get the voltage through those two thermistors and it should run if there is no shorts circuit.
Yes, there is shorted circuit some where. This is with just two boards connected, right?
OK, take the resistance reading on the two outside pin of the bridge rectifier.
Most sure blown primary transistors, maybe controller too.
In diode mode, check all the transistors that are near the bridge rectifier. I any causes "beeeep!" or near 0 ohms, then its dead.
Remember the nice bulb trick, if you replace anything always test with the bulb, because if something is still bad it will blow again breaking the new parts, or maybe more!
Still showing short on the outside pin of the bridge then? Next lift one end of the jumper J7207. We have to isolated the loads one at a time that are connected to the bridge first.
OK, the short is in the PFC Voltage booster circuits, you can put that jumper back in place. There are two Power MOSFETs Q7805, 7808 for the PFC circuits, so we need to find out which one (or both) is shorted out. Lift one end of the jumper J7021, that will isolate Q7808 from the circuit.
We are getting close.
Comment