[FONT=Calibri]Thanks for reply. I'm still waiting connector, not yet delivered.
I will probably cover the sensor, but I don't want isolate all the board except connectors, because that could create a hot spot around connector and cold spot on board under kapton. I prefer rising slowly the temp to 200 degree on all board, and then increase temp on connector.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]I cant reach the connector pins with solder iron, because there is no pins, the connector has only pads fully under. The « pins » you see on picture is just solder on pads of the board, because pads are longer.[/FONT]...
corrize
Badcaps Veteran
Last Activity: Yesterday, 03:22 PM
Joined: 04-05-2021
Location: Paris
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Soldering plastic low profile FPC close camera CMOS sensor ?
[FONT=Calibri]Hello, I will have to solder a very small FPC connector (pins : 0.3mm), on the pcb of CMOS sensor, it is very close. I was surprised by movie on ytb, someone soldering directly with hot air directly on the sensor without kapton, nothing.
CMOS sensor seems resist to high temps.
But I also directly saw sensor broken because a blocked motor at the corner became very hot and probably bent the metal frame and cracked the sensor.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]I have low melting point solder.
I will probably test hot air directly on one of plastic connector... -
What are the 2 or 3 most used BGA balls sizes please ?
[FONT=Calibri]Hello, I want to buy BGA balls (not stencils, only balls) but I don't know what size, it's just for reballing the new chip balled if the first attempt fail. So I will rarely use it. Probably chips are PMIC with max 60 balls. I don't need to reball EC chips from laptops of big chips like that.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]So what are the 2 or 3 most used BGA balls sizes I should have for cover the jobs please ?[/FONT][FONT=Calibri]Hello, I want to buy BGA balls (not stencils, only balls) but I don't know what size, it's just for reballing the new chip balled if the first attempt fail. -
[FONT=Calibri]Here it's a simple board, DC-DC down convertor so the chip is easy to find as guilty in this case because the other components are easy to check, but this chip is never shorted. I have this one, and in 4 or 5 dead boards : no short. Even if the chip is physicaly broken. It's harder/not possible to diagnose when that sort of chip is on other big board.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]The most of the time, I can't diagnose with power on because the boards are inside box with cables. Sometime, I diagnose like this : if no voltages out of this chip and no short, so chip dead... Because I...Leave a comment:
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How to diagnose little step down and power management BGA chips never shorted
[FONT=Calibri]Hello,[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]I have different sort of those little BGA chips (step down DC-DC, power management battery, …) I replaced 10 on differents mobile devices (no schematics) but I noticed often they can be dead but never shorted. I see some signs : burn marks, resistance drop by comparison with good board (40 KOhms to 1 KOhms for example)… but not easy to be sure of the diagnose. Because I can't access on all tracks (balls) with the meter.
Sometime, I know only after replacing chips.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]Do you have tips for diagnose please ?[/FONT]... -
Wow !
[url]https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005006929352658.html[/url]https://Wow !<br /> <br /> [url]http...658.html[/url]Leave a comment:
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[FONT=Calibri]Who buy on Alibaba ? Indeed, some « shops » had this ship, but I saw it only on the title, no information at all. Nothing. I can't check if it this one. BGA chip ?
I guess those shops are only traders, they receive demands and they send offers to sellers.
I guess they have nothing.
I will ask if they have other way to buy their products like Aliexpress, Ebay or other. I need to see what I buy.
I will try…[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]Who buy on Alibaba ? Indeed, some « shops » had this ship, but I saw it only on the title, no information at all. Nothing.Leave a comment:
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[FONT=Calibri]OK, probably the right list, there is 2 match :[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]R2A23251BM for 23251 chip
R2A23250BM for 23250 chip[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]But no information, no datasheet… « specialized »[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]I already searched for those components some years ago, and found the sames.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]Thoses chips are the keys for easily repair camera motherboards and power boards, but can't be found. The Z6 model was built in 2018, not old.
Thanks for help.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]OK, probably the right list, there is 2 match :[/FONT]Leave a comment:
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That could be a good way, found this [B]DA9210 Renesas chip, quite similar... But not the same, just visualy similar.[/B]That could be a good way, found this [B]DA9210 Renesas chip, quite similar... But not the same, just visualy similar.[/B]Leave a comment:
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[FONT=Calibri]Thanks for help, I have D750, but thoses chips are in lot of models as you can see. I looked in the links but nothing. There is no electronics data in the services manuals. I only saw a boardview in D700 service manual but only a picture, no informations on components.
I have services manuals and parts list for D750 but it's only for mechanic parts, not for electronics.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]I guess the information about thoses chips can't come from Nikon. Maybe someone can recognize the brand by the box ? And balls layout ? (Like picture)[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]Chip...Leave a comment:
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What is this bga chip in all Nikon camera ? – power management
[FONT=Calibri]Hello, do you know what is this chip or where I can buy it please ? This is a main chip managing voltages : battery voltage in input and outputs are other lower voltages needed by camera.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]I have 6-7 boards with this dead chip, but I cant find replacement parts. There is no brand, the number matching with nothing. The top is brilliant and conductive material (yes and it is ground). It's not a plastic like other chips.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]In anothers nikon camera, there is this same chip, with differents numbers like 23250.[/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]Do... -
What is this component pls ? It look like a fuse.
Hello, on a Fuji camera, on the board of top command buttons and flash, at the input part of power, there is 3 components (black with square spot), they look like fuses, but on all 3, I measure resistances : 3K, 150K… They are not like the fuses : ok (0 Ohms) or burned (open).
Do you know what it is please ?... -
Re: A funny fuse story – Lumix LX100 II
There was of something soldered on the pad, so I guess there was a cap. I just never saw the small 0402 cap blown. (The big component is an inductor).
I guess I will replace the fuse by the same original "O" one (32V 2,5A). The max power come probably from the direct charge via USB cable for charging a 1000mAh battery. So it probably don't has fast charge (not in the specs). So the fuse should protect 1A max réal at 7v. So 32V 2,5A seems alwready oversized if i'm not wrong ?Leave a comment:
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Re: A funny fuse story – Lumix LX100 II
I checked that, I disassembled the two fuses, and you are right, there was one « O » fuse under. And it is blow. (The G one is good).
I’m not convainced for the cap, the missing cap is a 0402 one. Too small for blow for me. The big one on the picture is ok and untouched. But possible.
When I pushed a little bit the 2 fuses soldered, they left alone from the board. So bad solder. Maybe the camera repair man did a bad solder and accidentaly moved the cap too ?Leave a comment:
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A funny fuse story – Lumix LX100 II
Hello, I disassembled this dead camera, and found this WTF… Two fuses soldered one above the other !
I was pretty sure nobody touched it before, but that can't be from factory. There is flux, and capacitor is probably missing.
The other weird thing : the fuses are « G » fuse : (0.75A – 8V), seems very low. The original fuse should be « O » : (32V 2,5A).
There is « O » mark beside. All fuses have the same mark letter on main board. So, I can deduce it's a « O » fuse.
And this correspond to the issus I saw : when I plug the battery, I measure the voltage dropping... -
Tips for reduce shaking ?
Hello, I have a little problem. When I use hot air, I'm shaking a little with tweezers, and I'm scared to push a little qfn for check if it floating. So sometime, I prefer to not try and « hope » the solder is done.
I use the blue tweezers mechanic AAC-14 and a I put just my fist on the table.
Do you have tips to reduce shaking pls ? Maybe shorter tweezers, or something for wedge the fist or arm ?
(I add : no coffee, no alcohol and I don't smoke). -
Re: ASUS UX450FDX REV 2.0 Need Schematics ans boardview
Hello, up for UX450 or UX480 pls ?Leave a comment:
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Re: Nikon D5 – dead, power board issue ?
Update : I connected only the boards with stand by 3.3v (and the top cover with the power on button). And without the motherboard.
And when I press the power button, the screen display goes on.
But it is just the display on, the battery symbol turning in loop and give no information.
After, I connected the motherboard, the battery symbol seems indicate a level stable.
But I noticed the PMIC (ADP5080 or ADP5080ACBZ, see the first post) is burning.
I guess, the PMIC has received the enable signal from...Leave a comment:
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Re: What are these components pls ? in the DSLR nikon
The board works. Not yet all the DLSR but that means these components are ok. So I don't need anymore to identify, thxLeave a comment:
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What are these components pls ? in the DSLR nikon
Hello, in a Nikon DSLR D5, I'm following the stand by 3.3v line and the first component is the 555, I don't know what is it ? But it seems working, the 3.3v go out.
And it go to the little 3 pins component with marking code "30". It is weird, at the 2 pins (same side), I measured 3.3v and at the third one : 0v. So that could be a negative comparator.
I didn't find what is it ? Can you help pls ?...
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