Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Pin 1,2 and 4 nothing MULTIMETER dont even move.
Pin 1,2 and 4 nothing MULTIMETER dont even move.
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Last edited by LEEDASH; 03-13-2013, 09:38 AM. -
Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Just thought that it may have a surge protection (inrush current) thermister in line, but even so, it should show some reading on the meter's 200 Ohm range.
Can you just double check once more that pin 2 of the rectifier doesn't read anything when the other probe is connected to either the Live or Neutral of the mains plug. As before, if the TV has a mains switch, make sure it is in the ON position.________________________________________________
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Yes double checked all still the same only pin 3 showin any sign of life.Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Hmmm...that doesn't seem right.
On the attached photo I have put red & blue numbers. With your meter on the 200 Ohm range place the probes between blue 1 - 2, then 2 - 3, then 3 - 4, then 4 - 5. There should be almost zero Ohms between each.
Do the same for the red numbers.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
blue 1+2 00.4
2+3 00.5
3+4 00.8
4+5 00.5
red 1+2 00.4
2+3 00.5
3+4 00.4Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Check the solder on Pin1 (Blue) I suspect the connector is not soldered correctly.Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Seems ok pin 1Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
So the open circuit is not on the actual PSU board (assuming there are no intermittent dry joints).
Does the mains lead go to another board before going to the PSU board? Is there a mains ON/OFF switch on the TV?
I know you have said that you have tried different mains leads, but could you test the fuse in the one you are using at the moment with your meter.
If you could attach a photo of the route that the mains lead takes, between the kettle socket and the input to the PSU board, that would help.________________________________________________
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Ok the kettle lead socket lead (blue and brown) runs under (pic 2) then straight in to pic 1 ( the psu )
what shall i test the fuse on ?Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
no does not go to another board before the psuComment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
00.5 testing on 200 ohms have tried lead in other tv and ok.Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Radio Fox prbably wants to see the socket where the kettle lead plugs into, that is, the other end of the blue and brown cable.
Well I Do
Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Does the brown and blue connector unplug from the power supply board.
Check there are two pins in therePlease upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Yes you have the on/off switch next to it the glass fuse then the 3pin where the kettle lead goes into,yes there is a 2 pin on the pcbComment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
I'm getting a bit confused now. Are you saying that there is another fuse before the mains supply reaches the PSU board?
We are trying to determine the path that the mains wiring takes from the kettle socket to the PSU board. If there is another fuse in the circuit that you haven't tested, put your meter across that.
Also it could possibly be a broken mains switch. If you can get to the contacts on the switch (they may be covered in heat shrink) then check that out with your meter. It should show nearly zero Ohms in one switch position & open circuit in the other.
As selldoor said, if it's possible, a photo of the path that the mains wiring takes from the kettle connector to the PSU board would be helpfull.________________________________________________
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
we have obviously the plug fuse,that seems ok
we have a 250v glass fuse next to where the kettle lead goes into,that is also ok,having changed this.
i did post a picture couple above this
Right how shall i test this on off switch at the back ? unit on or off or off in the on position ?Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
It depends on whether you can see any contacts on the switch- I suggest you use ohms
200 and NO POWER. What I have in mind is to get a piece of wire or a paper clip - something to connect the positive and negative pins on the mains plug.
Un plug the blue and brown socket at the power supply and connect your meter across the two pins then operate the on off switch.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
Just disconnected the blue/brown form pcb,attached my multimeter to the wire/block,switched on/off and nothing dont even move.Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
do you think its worth changing the rocker switch ?Comment
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Re: Bush LCD37TV016HD
You need to have the kettlelead plugged into the kettle conector - but not into the mains AND short/wire across the mains plug as in the diagram, to complete the circuit.Please upload pictures using attachment function when ask for help on the repair
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39740Comment
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Hi,
Trying to fix a bush TV. The Tcon is integrated onto the main board by the looks of it but before I buy a replacement does this look like a screen fault? The lines at the bottom are concerning me. I have check for shorts on the caps etc and can't see anything obvious. Nothing is overly hot and I've tried heating different boards and pressing down on the flex but no change in picture.
Any advice welcome. Thanks in advance.... -
Hello everyone. 😀
As per thread title, this unit has a serious SMPSU fault. It blows F1001, which is a 10A M205 in the phase from the mains input.
Very first thing I tried, was simply replacing the fuse, but the replacement ceramic fuse blew immediately.
Looking at the schematic for this PSU, I then removed what I thought was the next likely candidate: D1001 - the HV main bridge rectifier.
This isolated the fault(no longer blows the main fuse), but does not point me to the actual fault.
There are no devices that have exploded or otherwise show signs... -
- Prior owner tried a replacement main board. No difference.
- Samsung 2x red blinking standby LED = panel fault
- Jumpered FB_TRDY_1 (pin 1 CN1300 left. main tcon->left side buffer boards) and FB_TRDY_3 (pin 95 CN1301 right. main tcon->right side buffer boards) This allows testing individual T-Con (on main board) connection to panel on this Samsung. Found fault on left side (viewing from rear of TV)
- Each side has 2 buffer boards, disconnected left side flex between 2 buffer boards. Fault is on the left most board.
- Tape masking eventually isolated to CN1300 pin 15 (CKV4_GOA) Display
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I have been having a fun time at work with two pieces of equipment that had shorted components or shorted component cables to machine frame
I would check what my multi meter was telling me about how many ohms I getting with the multi meter was telling versus the ESR was telling me about weather or not it really was a short to machine ground or not
One note at first we thought that it might be a bad I/O card or a malfunction PLC including me as well but I thought I would try and see if removing the I/O cables would make a difference or not and this time it did make a difference... -
Hello Everyone,
I have an Onkyo TX-SR353 Audio/Video Receiver (5.1 ch with HDMI) that I am having a really hard time diagnosing and I'm about to throw this in the junk and go buy a new unit that is on sale until the 7th.
Symptoms:- Intermittent (part of the reason why i'm having a hard time isolating problem), sometimes will work for 10+h at a time without issue
- Original symptom was wife reported loud banging noise (like someone was banging on the wall with their fists) from the LEFT SURROUND speaker and then the unit shut off.
- I swapped the Left and Right surround
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