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so ive tried 2-3 power cables
clear fuse next to power cable ive tested
also the fuse in position f2 tested
no physical blown caps or burned out parts
so now im stuck at a crossroads.
If TV repair were this easy everyone would do it. Very rarely is it something obvious.
SO, I would suggest you test everything. And if you do not know how to test something, look it up or ask on here.
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I don't know. Without clear pictures, I can't really suggest much.
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Power supply as for now I think that's where the fault is.
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Sorry to butt in (you are doing a fine - and patient - job tom), but have you checked the fuse in the mains plug LEEDASH? I know it sounds like an obvious question, but you haven't mentioned it so far.
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Can you test at the glass fuse near the mains inlet for a voltage.
If you just have the Power supply board that will do for this test.
Put it on a non conductive surface.
Set your meter on AC Volts600
Connect the board to the mains and VERY CAREFULLY put one probe on each end of the glass fuse, as you did when you tested its resistance. If you have crocodile clip attachment for your meter use them. - Connect it first then plug in.
Can you test at the glass fuse near the mains inlet for a voltage.
If you just have the Power supply board that will do for this test.
Put it on a non conductive surface.
Set your meter on AC Volts600
Connect the board to the mains and VERY CAREFULLY put one probe on each end of the glass fuse, as you did when you tested its resistance. If you have crocodile clip attachment for your meter use them. - Connect it first then plug in.
I don't understand what you are trying to measure here? If we need to know if the mains voltage is reaching the fuse, it can be done with absolute safety by measuring continuity between the Live pin on the mains plug and the fuse.
No disrespect LEEDASH but you are obviously a newbie to faultfinding, so I think it is safer to do as many unpowered tests as possible before doing potentially dangerous ones!
My next step would be to measure continuity between the Live pin on the mains plug and the bridge rectifier. Then the neutral pin on the mains plug & the bridge rectifier.
LEEDASH...in photo 008 in post #71, there is a component bolted to the heatsink (behind the orange capacitor). It looks to me like a D15XB-60. There should be continuity between the Live pin on the mains plug and to one of the inner pins marked with a ~.
With the set unplugged from the mains supply and the PSU board connected to the mains input connector, set your meter to it's lowest Ohms range. Ensure that the mains ON/OFF switch on the TV itself is switched to ON (if it has one). Put one of the meter's probes on the Live pin of the mains plug. Put the other probe on one of the inner pins of the D15XB-60 (marked with ~). It should read almost 0 Ohms. If it doesn't, then put the probe on the other inner pin. One of them should read almost zero.
Now put one of the probes on the Neutral pin of the mains lead, and the other probe on one of the inner pins on the D15XB-60. This time you should get almost zero Ohms on the pin that didn't give zero Ohms last time.
ok,multimeter is set to 200 ohms
d15xb-60
number 1,2 and 4 pin no reading,just '1' on the meter.
number 3 pin ~ with this symbol is reading 00.8
That's good. Can you confirm that pin 2 on the D15XB-60 also measures 00.8 on the meter when the other probe is touched on the other pin of the mains plug.
What I am getting at is that the Live pin on the mains plug should show a very low resistance to one of the pins marked with a ~ on the D15XB-60, and the Neutral pin on the mains plug should show a very low resistance to the other pin marked ~ on the D15XB-60.
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