I have to go now - it will confirm that
1 the switch doesnt work or
2 the wiring at the switch is defective or
3 the wiring at the kettle connector is defective ( You have said that from the kettle
plug to the mains plug is ok)
OR your meter has an intermittant fault - are the leads on it sound?
yes get you now,does the blue/brown wire have to be plugged in to the pcb ? just use a paper clip to cross wire across plug ok.
Don't plug the connector with the blue/brown leads on it to the PSU board, as you need to get access to the pins on the connector.
Putting your meter probes on the 2 pins on this connector should give a reading of almost zero Ohms when the rocker switch is in 1 position, and open circuit when the rocker switch is in the other position.
If you cannot find something to short out the pins on the mains plug, you could also try putting one probe on the Live pin of the mains plug, and the other probe on one of the pins on the connector that goes to the PSU. One of the pins (probably the one connected to the brown lead) should show zero Ohms when the rocker switch is in the ON position.
Then put one probe on the Neutral pin on the mains plug and the other on one of the pins on the connector that goes to the PSU board. Again, one of the pins (probably the one connected to the blue lead) should show zero Ohms.
It would be a little easier if you could show a picture of the actual path of the mains wiring inside the set from the kettle socket to the PSU board. The photos you posted earlier just showed pictures of the PCB's with the mains wiring underneath.
Pictures are getting better - can you show the other side of the switch in the last pic.
Is the rocker switch and the kettle socket together in the same unit?
Ok - Think I have got it now
In the picture it looks like you can get to metal connectors at the base of each wire by pulling back the shrink a little.
Working only on the switch - no kettle lead and not plugged into the board. Meter on ohms can you get at the metal under 1 and 2 on the pic test with switch one way then the other. This should bottom out if the neg side of the switch is working.
EDIT should perhaps have said put one probe from the meter on 1 and the other on 2
This really doesnt seem to be making much sense. It is almost the same test as in 106/107
Put the switch in what you believe is the ON position and do the ohms test from the
neg pin in the kettle socket to the first the blue position marked 1 then the blue position marked 2
I am still wndering about your meter Hold the probes together (in one hand cross them and hold between thumb and forefinger)) and it should go almost to 0.00 then gently tug the probes and see if it goes to 1 on the left side or OL or whatever it shows when
the probes are apart.
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