Philips 42PFL5432D/37

[backoi]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

1) Do you have a source hooked up like a DVD player to see if there is a picture and sound?

2) Does the power always go off after 1 minute?

a) If you turn off the TV and turn it back on, does it stay on 1 minute and go off again?

It can't be turned on. I tried to hold/release the power button on the side of the TV and sometimes, I was able to turn the unit on after hitting the power button few times, then the power button worked and I could turn it on/off as usual until I shut off the main power, then the problem re-occurred.

3) Can we get a picture of the entire TV backside so all the boards are in view? We want to see the relationship and cabling between boards.

See attached pictures.

4) PS. Sharp eyed readers and future people will notice this is why we always INSIST on photos on your own TV. The boards are completely different even though backoi says the models are the same in post #36.

1) Do you have a source hooked up like a DVD player to see if there is a picture and sound?

Yes, I have one. Since TV can't turn on, so the dvd wouldn't do anything.


2) Does the power always go off after 1 minute?

Yes, after pluggin in the main power cord, one of the LEDs on main board stayed on 1 min, then it went off at the same time with a blue indicator LED in front of TV. See attached pictures.

a) If you turn off the TV and turn it back on, does it stay on 1 minute and go off again?

It can't be turned on. I tried to hold/release the power button on the side of the TV and sometimes, I was able to turn the unit on after hitting the power button few times, then the power button worked and I could turn it on/off as usual until I shut off the main power, then the problem re-occurred.

3) Can we get a picture of the entire TV backside so all the boards are in view? We want to see the relationship and cabling between boards.

See attached pictures.

[PlainBill]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

The service manual is available from Elektrotanya. This TV uses a split power supply design that makes troubleshooting a LOT more interesting. I'd suggest downloading the service manual, Philips is excellent about supplying troubleshooting information. I'll be downloading a copy myself and be ready to help.

The fact that you have 24 volts to the inverter and the blue light goes on and off indicates both power supplies may be working. The first step is to check that. Since it does not appear the connectors are labeled, the manual is going to be a big help.

PlainBill

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Dang it. Still no caps today. Ordered them Tuesday before noon, was hoping to have them today for sure..............=(

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Did you change any of the caps on the power board?

All the caps look like Rubycon ("K" vent) and then there are 2 blue caps with the "+" vent.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Still no caps today.

From all the feedback Digikey usually delivers in 2 days with USPS 1st class to USA residents.

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Tracked my caps and found they were mis-delivered to another town, but only 10 miles away, so I went and got them. Now, caps in hand, ready to begin.......=-)
Looks like I have to take out the main power board before I start.

[PlainBill]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

backoi, there is something very strange going on here. I downloaded the service manual for the 42PFL5432D/37 and got the chassis illustrated below, which is a good match to the one PoteauPets is working on, but not at all like the pictures you posted.

What is the model number and chassis number of your TV?

PlainBill

[rmoody]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Tracked my caps and found they were mis-delivered to another town, but only 10 miles away, so I went and got them. Now, caps in hand, ready to begin.......=-)
Looks like I have to take out the main power board before I start.

Not sure if you got any or not but Solder Wick is a great tool for desoldering the old caps, I have removed and replaced caps without solder wick but it's a pain and isn't as clean of a job as using the wick.

[backoi]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

My apology to PlainBill! I checked the model and it's 42PFL7432D/37 chassis Q523.1U LA
I mixed up the 7432 with 5432. I am searching for the service manual, hope to find one soon.
Backoi

[PlainBill]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

My apology to PlainBill! I checked the model and it's 42PFL7432D/37 chassis Q523.1U LA
I mixed up the 7432 with 5432. I am searching for the service manual, hope to find one soon.
Backoi

The service manual is available from Elektrotanya; you have to search on the chassis number.

There are already several threads for that chassis; I suggest asking the mods to either move your posts to this thread or to open a new thread.

PlainBill

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Now, caps in hand, ready to begin.......=-)

Success??

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

If the sound and power light stayed on, that implies the main board is working correctly.

Check again when the TV goes off if 24V DC is present on the master and slave inverter board.

If not, that implies that the power board has a problem. Since other past owners of this set have posted pictures with bad caps on the power supply, I would suspect you will have to recap the power board given Capxon's poor reputation.

Remember caps don't have to bloat in order to be bad.

If 24V DC is present when the TV goes off, then that implies a bad t-con as PlainBill mentioned in post #20.

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

I only re-capped the 2 that were bloated. Do you think that's my problem? I didn't want to tempt fate since it was my first time soldering, but now I am regretting it. I will re-check to see that the 24V DC is present on both master and slave, but if it was good before, shouldn't it be good now?
About the bad t-con in post #20, I never could see a picture when I shined a light inside, either before or now. But the green power light is staying on now after the recap, before the recap, it turned amber.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

I will re-check to see that the 24V DC is present on both master and slave, but if it was good before, shouldn't it be good now?

In post #21, you reported that 24V DC was not present after the screen went blank. We are testing for the same thing. If 24V DC is not there, that points to the power supply.

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Sorry, I"ve been away. (Had some family emergencies) Anyway, I have re-tested both master and slave sides with power on and still get the 24v reading. Now, I am waiting for it to kick itself off or go black again to re-test. Be back in a few....=)

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Yep, it kicked off, no reading on either the slave or master side. Light on front is red or amber.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

If 24V DC is not present on the inverter boards, then I would suspect those Capxon caps on the power supply.

Soldering on the power board will be easier than the logic board because most power boards are only single layer.

I suggest changing all the caps on the power supply with Panasonic FM equivalents from digikey.com.

Make a list of all the existing caps and we can help make the order.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

If you search this forum for 42PFL54*, you will see a lot of power boards with bloated Capxon caps.

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Remember, I replaced the 2 capXons that were bloated but didn't replace the third one since it looked okay. Do you think I should replace that third one and re-test everything again?

[PoteauPets]

Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37

Hey Retired, Just took a look at the two caps I replaced and one has already bloated !!
What is causing that?