Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Doide D925 reads 1 the other way
Diode D912 reads the same both ways... 001
Doide D925 reads 1 the other way
Diode D912 reads the same both ways... 001
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
D925 would indicate its good. You should get a value one direction and either "0L" or "1" the other way if you reverse the probes. Desoldering and checking is still your best bet. Just try to not mess them up to bad incase they are good. That way you can atleast put them back.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Mr. Bill,
Those two diodes were good after testing them off the board. I did what was posted in another board and used the Radio Shack Diodes to see if this fixed it and sure enough it did. I have the needed diodes on order and will replace them as soon as they come in. ~ Now I am testing to see if I have the problem of the set turning off when it heats up...Fingers crossed!! Thanks you guys for ALL your help!!!!Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Hey Guys,
I've been away for awhile taking care of my husbands elderly parents, but am still having TV issues.
Here's what I have done so far :
1) Re-capped bloated caps on Scaler board. (I think it was only 2 or 3)
TV would still shut off after 20-30 mins or so.
2) Re-capped most all caps on the power board
TV still had same issue, but discovered that if we kept a fan running
behind it it would stay on all day & all night.
3) You guys had me doubt my original solder joints on the scaler board, so I went back and removed them and capped them all over again.
4) Still same problem, only fix so far is to keep the fan on.
5) Ordered more caps, (arrived Tues) re-capped the entire scaler board.
6) Still same problem, only stays on with the fan running.
HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
OH, and with the help of TBuch, I tested all the diodes while waiting for the last shipment of caps. They all checked out fine.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
1) My next best guess, and it is a guess, is that something on the t-con may be overheating.
2) A replacement is at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220939145281
3) To verify if that is the case or not, try to think of a way just to keep this card cool (instead of the entire backside of the TV). This may involve some "duct" work or portable hair dryer on the cool setting.
4) There is a voltage regulator on the board (maybe two), but I'm afraid your analog multimeter may not provide enough precision to determine if it is bad or not. A voltage regulator should be within 1% of it specifications.
Now if the voltage regulator is "obviously" bad, then a 3.3V regulator might read 4.5V or 2.4V which is enough to spot with an analog multimeter.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
I have a new digital multi-meter. It's the same one TBuch bought in an earlier post, with which I tested all the diodes.
Where and what exactly is the T-Con???Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...5&d=1327778579
PlainBill also mentioned it as a possibility way back in post #20.
It stands for timing control.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
BTW, it is not uncommon for a TV to have multiple problems in addition to the bad caps found earlier. Most of the time, it is just one thing.--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
1) I marked the two voltage regulators. The pics are almost good enough for me to make out the part numbers, but I can't. So please list the part numbers.
2) To measure them, see my bookmarked answer at
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...13&postcount=3
Use a ground screw on the t-con for your black probe.
3) Obviously, we want comparison readings of these two when the TV is working and when it is not.Attached Files--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Part numbers
ANE 8815
AECS 250
0719
6343
74J3Z
Will post readings momentarily.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Readings with TV ON
ANE 8815 AECS 250 0719
Pin 1=2.49v
Pin 2=0
Pin 3=3.27v
6343 74J3Z
Pin 1=0
Pin 2=3.69v
Pin 3=2.81v
Readings when the TV kicks off=0 across the board.Last edited by PoteauPets; 02-11-2012, 12:17 AM.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
That indicates that something is cutting power to the boards - suspicions rest on the power supply - as the 24V is shutting off as well.
If the power LED stays ON during the failure, the standby voltage is -probably- fine, but we must check that it is at 5V and not at a voltage which is too low.
Need a closer pic of this area. If there are any labels next to the connector, report them.Attached FilesPlease do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Here are the latest pictures. By the way, Thank you all for your help !!!!Attached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
The white label info is as follows:
ADPF 24300R1P
P4P77 773911322Comment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
1) The above is correct. The 250 indicates the output voltage. You have 2.49V.
2) I can't find a datasheet for the above and the readings don't match any of the "common" voltages. Common is 1.8, 2.5, or 3.3V. So this part could be suspect.6343 74J3Z
Pin 1=0
Pin 2=3.69v
Pin 3=2.81v
3) Let's try another set of measurements.
Circled in red are the t-con voltage rails. The red multimeter probe should fit into each of one of those small test points. Your black probe goes on a t-con board ground screw.
4) List each legend and its value when the TV is working and not. Also please post a close up photo of just the section in red.
5) Also please clarify the above "kicks off". The last I remember is that when the TV doesn't work, there was sound and backlights were on (white).Readings when the TV kicks off=0 across the board.Attached Files--- begin sig file ---
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Close up of the area in red per your request. And yes, when it kicks off, we still have sound and back lights.
What do I set the meter to to perform the above mentioned test?
Tested with TV Powered On, Meter set @ DcV -20
GND=0
SDA=3.28
VIN=12.00
SCL=3.28
TSTPGM=.01
Tested when the TV Shut off, Meter set @ DcV -20
GND=.01
SDA=.01
VIN=.45
SCL=0
TSTPGM=0Attached FilesComment
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Re: Philips 42PFL5432D/37
Just found this post in my local area. Wondering if this would be fixable or if I could use it for parts to fix mine. What do you guys think? I just sent her a message to see what her bottom dollar is. Here is her actual picture and description.
42' Phillips Flat Screen w/Ambulight for sale. Also comes with the remote.
It has a black strip down the side of the screen other than that it works fine. My son uses it to play the 360 & watch movies on. Make me an offer.Attached FilesComment
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Last edited by retiredcaps; 02-11-2012, 11:10 PM.--- begin sig file ---
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I have a Philips TV that shows no signs of life when plugged in - no standby LED, no response to buttons, no noises, nothing. This model is well known for having bad caps, so I started by replacing a few of them (3x 35v 1500uf and 1x 2200uf 16v). I don't know the history of the TV but it looks like someone's been at it before because some of the solder joints looked really bad, so I re soldered them as well.
After swapping the caps I still got no signs of life so I started checking voltages, and found that the board is supplying 24v but not 12v. Here's what I measured on the connector... -
Hello,
I've got a really strange issue with the speakers on my Philips 43PUS7506/12. It makes this awful loud buzzing now. It happened after it was attempted to be wall mounted - I think the back got squeezed and something broke.
I thought maybe the speakers got damaged, so I replaced them - no dice.- Using the internal speakers, it always happens.
- Using the headphone jack, it never happens.
- Using the digital/optical out with a soundbar - it happens after about 2h/movie runtime - it's never as drastic, it just pops in and out, but I didn't want it to damage the sound bar
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Hello Team,
New issue on LCD panel where I need to find out the cause and the potential solution.
This is on the Philips 50PUH6400, the LCD panel is an INNOLUX V500dk2 xrs1.
I have image, on the right side, the image is more or less normal even if there is a small blur on edge, on the left there is an issue.
When moving up and down in the menu on the right the image is slow to disappear, and is darker, like red/brown.
I've checked voltages, no issue found comparing right and left side of the panel driver.
VHG VGL CKV... are the sames on... -
Hello partners.
Could someone tell me how to make this Philips TV source work without the mainboard being connected? The model of the board is EAX65423701 (2.1) and the model of the Philips TV is 40PFH40009/88.
The TV is dead, there is no standby light, however there is a voltage of 12v on the pins ( included 12v VAU ) and 3.2v on the PS-ON pin (see photo) when the power board is connected to the main board. If I disconnect both boards I only get 8 volts on 12v pins. I would like to rule out a fault in the main board by making it work, but so far no one has been able to tell... -
i have a philips for repair 55pus7909/12
fault is no display but the white logo philips lit below of the screen
No display
No backlight
no sound
power supply the standby voltages are ok
Any Help regarding this problem?
Thanks
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