I just replaced 7 bulging caps in my old AOpen mb that was working fine prior to taking the bad caps out and now it will not start up. I get an audio that sounds like (cp-ou-fela). What does this mean?
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Check for solder 'splat' or solder hairs that are shorting traces.
Check that you didn't slip a scratch a trace open.
Check other side of board from work for SMD devices that got too hot and shifted off the solder pads.
Make sure no caps got installed backwards.
Remove CMOS battery for a few minutes then try again.
.Mann-Made Global Warming.
- We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
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Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.
- Dr Seuss
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You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Thank PCBONEZ been away haven't had a chance to re check the board. Got a feeling it's solder splat or hairs that is causing the problem it wasn't a pretty soldering job. for what ever reason I had a real problem with the soldering I guess I should have cleaned it first?? Anyway I will post again when I get back at it. By the way unless the board is printed wrong all caps are in right I did check that. I did read here somewhere though that one board was printer in error? If mine is I would have no idea which one is wrong. And I did pull the CMOS battery for about 10 min.Originally posted by PCBONEZLast edited by davg; 11-24-2008, 01:50 PM.Comment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
CPU failure ...!?Originally posted by davg
caps in wrong direction maybe..?
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
This is where an old tootbrush would come in handy. The harder the bristles, the better it would remove solder splatt.Originally posted by davg
As far as cap orientation, google image your board, and see if your caps are oriented like the one on the image (though make sure the board is the same), or just ask someone here that has this particular board post a pic.Comment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Thanks people I just ordered a new soldering station my old pencil type is not doing the job hopeing this will help improve my soldering skills.Comment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Well I replaced the cpu in this board now I get the recording that sounds like testa-twl-auta-mostfela can someone tell me what that sound means? most importantly where can I find what these codes mean?Comment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
What is the model?Comment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Its an AX-34 Pro llComment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Every year in my town the council has a pre-cyclone rubbish collection whereby folks can leave objects that maybe a danger if flying around in cyclonic winds out on their nature strip for collection,
I got out early and bagged 6 dangerous PC's. one dishwasher, and one gas BBQ
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One of the PC cases had this board in it, Sure looks nice no bulging caps etc but as you can see the bios chip is AWOL. I have never had a 370 and believe this board can be modded for the Tualatin?
Around these parts I would be more likely to find the dead sea scrolls as a BIOS chip for this board
Anybody got any suggestions or is it back out in the rubbish?
939 DualCore AMD Opteron, 1800 MHz (9 x 200)
Abit AN8 / Fatal1ty AN8 SLI Series
3072 MB (PC3200 DDR SDRAM)
ATI Radeon HD 4300/4500 Series (1024 MB
Lian LI Aluminium mesh caseComment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Just to add mostly Rubycons and few YXG caps
939 DualCore AMD Opteron, 1800 MHz (9 x 200)
Abit AN8 / Fatal1ty AN8 SLI Series
3072 MB (PC3200 DDR SDRAM)
ATI Radeon HD 4300/4500 Series (1024 MB
Lian LI Aluminium mesh caseComment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
found your bios.cant help you with dead sea scrolls though.sorry.
look above the empty socket.its the chip with sst on it.Comment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Oh..there ya go ..wow this little camera is good!
Um..i got an AWARD PNC/PCI 686 chip out of an AMD board does this help in any way?
939 DualCore AMD Opteron, 1800 MHz (9 x 200)
Abit AN8 / Fatal1ty AN8 SLI Series
3072 MB (PC3200 DDR SDRAM)
ATI Radeon HD 4300/4500 Series (1024 MB
Lian LI Aluminium mesh caseComment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
When I put on my ACME Mr Magoo reading glasses I see there is nothing in that slot anyways...
Thanks for help the board runs a treat....
939 DualCore AMD Opteron, 1800 MHz (9 x 200)
Abit AN8 / Fatal1ty AN8 SLI Series
3072 MB (PC3200 DDR SDRAM)
ATI Radeon HD 4300/4500 Series (1024 MB
Lian LI Aluminium mesh caseComment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Empty socket is meant for a backup BIOS chip, and there's probably a jumper nearby which gets board to boot from the primary BIOS chip soldered direct to the board, or from a backup BIOS chip inserted in that socket
Aopen's approach of using human intervention to fix a BIOS problem makes a lot more sense in my opinion than Gigabyte's "Dual BIOS" which has two soldered BIOS chips and relies on software to fix a low-level software problembetter to keep quiet and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubtComment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
No mod needed.
Supports Tualatin out of the box, at least with the latest BIOS.
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Kick butt board for it's time! [Except maybe for caps used...]
http://www.firingsquad.com/hardware/...o2/default.asp
http://usa.aopen.com/products_detail.aspx?Auno=150
.Mann-Made Global Warming.
- We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.
- Dr Seuss
-
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
-
Comment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Spec says it uses VIA 694X - needs to be a 694T for Tualatin supportbetter to keep quiet and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubtComment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Oops, you're right.
- 694T is not the only VIA Tualatin chipset though.
For some reason I was thinking 694X was the chip number for Apollo PLE133T which I have some of.Last edited by PCBONEZ; 10-04-2010, 01:07 AM.Mann-Made Global Warming.
- We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.
- Dr Seuss
-
You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
-
Comment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
I have one of these boards. You should download the manual from AOpen.
The sound you are hearing id the board trying to talk to you(!).
No kidding, it's called Dr Bios or some such thing. I was never able to figure out what it was saying either.
Make sure your RAM is fully seated in the slots.
You probably have a cold shut - the solder didn't flow properly because your iron didn't get hot enough.
When you get your new iron, try remelting the solder (reflowing). If that doesn't work, you will have to remove and re-install the caps. Tinning the pins can help.
I've never understood people saying they can recap with a 20W soldering iron.
You need at least 50-60 watts in my experience.Comment
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Re: My first try AOpen MB
Lol yeah i had a p4 asus board thattalked too. I didnt realize it and it scared the shit outta me. I happEned to have my speakers on high volume and i restarted it and the rsm wasnt all the way in (i had been messing with it...) and it said like "cpufailure" but it talked wierd and really fast lol and my mom was like wth waa that!
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Hello, I'm a beginner for micro soldering. Right now I have some difficult to solder a qfn 20, I guess I put too much solder on the thermal-ground pad, the result is a corner of chip wich don't touch the board (last try).
I use a wire solder with hot air, I tin the board and chip before with iron and I use good flux.
I will have to solder a LVDS connector (40 pins, laptop pc), I saw a solder paste in seringe, good quality (it does not scatter).
See the test :
https://youtu.be/bNAzC-EvqHs?t=1767
With hot air from bellow the board, that's... -
Can someone recommend any good UV solder mask? But i need a solder mask that will stand high temperetures. The thing is...sometimes i have a bigger cooper ripped from the board, lets say mosfet pad... i reconstract it with cooper sheet, then i "glue it" with solder mask...then i use UV light...and let it cool a bit. After, i try to clean the cooper of extra solder mask..and till that part all is ok. But, when i use a soldering iron to solder that pad/cooper...the solder mask gets weaker or destroyed and finally the pad is ripped again from the board .
Is there any solder mask... -
So I though in my spare time I’d set myself up repairing motherboards mainly pin damaged lga1151 sockets types.
I’m using an achi ir sc pro rework station (gave up on my Achie ir6500 - don’t recommend)
I’ve managed to get my rework profile somewhere in the correct region (after a lot of trial and error) to get the old sockets off and reflow new ones back on again, the problems I’m getting is not all of the solder balls are re-attaching when re-flow occurs. I know this because when socket is removed pads still look clean and have no solder... -
This is a guide that I am writing for helping others to replace their MEC1503 EC chip if it breaks (or to get around an inconvenient prompt to the BIOS). This forum has been extremely helpful to me so I would like to contribute to help others. I will tell you right now that this task is very difficult to do. You MUST have experience and tools to do precision micro-soldering, BGA reballing, trace repair, and general laptop repair skills.
There are some specialty tools needed to do this task. The replacement MEC1503 chips can be acquired from Aliexpress. Do not buy the bare chips as... -
I'm trying to fix a broken MacBook Air, and got a parts board to salvage components from. Following the suggestions of many folks here, I wanted to get in a little practice of using my hot air station (A Quick 957DW+) on the parts board so I know what kind of behavior to expect.
For the life of me, I can't get anything done with this thing. I have tried multiple temperatures (from 210-425c), different air speeds, preheating the board (with the hot air, just warming it all around). I have applied what feels like excessive amounts of flux (Amtech V2-TF-559) and the solder on these components...
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