Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

[Bobdee]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Hello Bobdee,

thanks for the quick response.
now my question is what would i notice or see on the transistors.
do i have to measure them and if so what should be the values?
the 4 transistors i have orderd them in the states if they arrive then i will put them in the board and check if the screen is working if not i'llbe back.

Gerrit

Its would have been better to check them first to see if they are the failure before buying

If still in circuit then go with this method by Krankshaft

With a DMM switch it to diode check measure from base to collector then flip the position of the probes. Voltage drop in one direction is fine do that same from base to emitter same testing rule applies.

If out of circuit then test using lowest ohm setting and look for shorts between
B+C
B+E
C+E

Bob

[bossaap]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Hello Bobdee,

thanks for the quick response.
now my question is what would i notice or see on the transistors.
do i have to measure them and if so what should be the values?
the 4 transistors i have orderd them in the states if they arrive then i will put them in the board and check if the screen is working if not i'llbe back.

Gerrit

[Bobdee]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

hello,
i have a screen Prolite E432s llyama. if i turn it on its flashing 3 times (windows,motherboard,mouse) after these 3 things The screen goes black.but the bleu light stays on. it is not going on stand by. i have already replaced the caps but the problem stays.if i push on the button input/auto then i have for a few seconds visual screen. can anyone help?
excuse me for my poor english,dutch is my first language. Gerrit

Hello Geritt
Check out the 4 transistors C5707s or 6s either side of the 2 big blue caps, test for shorts

[bossaap]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

hello,
i have a screen Prolite E432s llyama. if i turn it on its flashing 3 times (windows,motherboard,mouse) after these 3 things The screen goes black.but the bleu light stays on. it is not going on stand by. i have already replaced the caps but the problem stays.if i push on the button input/auto then i have for a few seconds visual screen. can anyone help?
excuse me for my poor english,dutch is my first language. Gerrit

[Chips]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Thanks to these forums I was also able to fix my Iiyama Prolite E481S.
On the basis of the previous post I replaced the four transistors by the inverters and replaced them with C5707s (NB: mine had to be soldered at a 180 degree orientation compared to the existing ones - D1691). This did not fix the blinking blue light, so I took another look at the board and realised I'd missed the obvious: 2 x 1000uF electrolytics that had bulged and leaked. Once I'd replaced those two it kicked into life. I believe they were branded NRSA, so not sure about the ESR rating, but at least they work.

See pics of the board and the leaky caps:
NB: I had removed one of the 4 transistors by the inverters at this point.

[markzplace]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Excellent post replaced all the capacitors but did not work for me but got me in the right direction, turned out to be a short circuit transistor c5706 replaced all 4 with 2sc5707 now works again £3:00 plus postage on ebay.

Thanks

[JEWilson]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

You may have removed all screws

Next step, is to pop the plastic cover to the rear of the screen.

With the stand and all screws removed, turn the VDU face down.
Place the VDU side on a material which will not scratch the panel.

To pop the plastic, use a small screwdriver or similar to run along
the edge of join between the rear plastic cover and the front of
the panel.

The join is only a 1mm wide! Start at the bottom of the screen.

Use the screwdriver to press the on the edge whilst moving along
it. If done correctly, (working from bottom to top) the rear
panel will progressively open just sufficiently to then pop the
next join fixing on the rear cover. The trick is, to persuade the
rear cover to separate from the front of the screen.

Exercise caution. Not so hard as to damage the plastic.
You will just require enough force to press on the edge join!

Once you have done 1 or 2, you'll get the hang of it.

[PlainBill]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Hey, sorry to bump this thread. Ive now got three of these monitors that were junked from my department at university. They all suffer the same problem in that they wont start up. As someone previously mentioned, the little light on the front keeps flashing about once a second, and nothing more. Very annoying. I would like to repair them, as I need to go dual screen for CAD, but dont have the money to buy let alone one new monitor.

The trouble is I havent touched a soldering iron since I was at school. Ive searched about the internet and capicitor failure seems the most likely defect.

I have two questions though, how straight forward a proceedure is it to replace the capacitors, and (utter noob question) how on earth do I get the covers off? I cant seem to locate the last screw which makes it all come loose!

Many thanks to all. I'm very glad I found this forum!

As far as getting the cover off, sorry, I've never worked with that monitor.

Replacing caps on a power supply is no big deal. The FAQ and this thread will help you identify the proper series. In general you want to keep the same capacity, voltage, and physical size. Even though you are on a tight budget, replace all of the caps on the power supply board, (except for the 100 uf 400V one) even if they look good. Expect to pay $.50 - 1.00 for each cap. If I count correctly, there are 11; getting all three monitors working will cost less than $50.

If you've used a soldering iron a few times you shouldn't have too many problems. I suggest a 25 watt. Buy one that uses replaceable tips and use plated tips, they'll last longer. When removing the old caps give the soldering iron plenty of time to melt the solder, remove one leg at a time until it's removed. I suggest making a sketch showing which value of cap was in each location. When soldering in the replacements make sure you have the orientation correct, and again make sure the solder has flowed freely over the pad and is adhering to the pad and the lead. Above all, don't rush. Think about getting $300 of monitors for $50 and take your time.

I always examine the soldering carefully with a lighted magnifier before trimming the leads. Leave just a little bit of lead extending above the solder fillet.

PlainBill

[Benedict]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Hey, sorry to bump this thread. Ive now got three of these monitors that were junked from my department at university. They all suffer the same problem in that they wont start up. As someone previously mentioned, the little light on the front keeps flashing about once a second, and nothing more. Very annoying. I would like to repair them, as I need to go dual screen for CAD, but dont have the money to buy let alone one new monitor.

The trouble is I havent touched a soldering iron since I was at school. Ive searched about the internet and capicitor failure seems the most likely defect.

I have two questions though, how straight forward a proceedure is it to replace the capacitors, and (utter noob question) how on earth do I get the covers off? I cant seem to locate the last screw which makes it all come loose!

Many thanks to all. I'm very glad I found this forum!

[JEWilson]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

I fixed an Iiyama ProLite E481S yesterday

Usual culprits - bad crapacitors
Four of these inc. the Hermei were noticably bulged and
two of 16V 1000uF had electrolyte leakage.

Tested with ESR but reported ok
The fault sympton was screen failed to start - stuck in standby
Replaced the following

O/P Filter
2 of 470 uF 16.0V 105 deg - done, replaced with Panasonic FC, C101 and C916
2 of 1000 uF 16.0V 105 deg - done, replaced with Panasonic FC, C914, C915

Beside Inverter
2 of 220 uF 16.0V 105 deg - done, replaced with Panasonic FC 16V 470uF, C201, C223

Primary
1 of 22 uF 50.0V 105 deg - done, replaced with Panasonic FC 50V 33uF, C907
1 of 33 uF 50.0V 105 deg - done, replaced with Panasonic FC 50V 33uF, C207
2 of 1 uF 50.0V 105 deg - done, replaced with Panasonic NHG same value, C301, c302

The screen is ok now, cleaned up a bit and good to go

[gonzo0815]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Well, Panasonic FM, one of my favorite capacitor series. High endurance, very low ESR and good availability.

[Geddon]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Hi, I'm the guy who repaired/recapped his E431S in the earlier thread. I realise I'm a little late here but the replacement caps I used were bought from RS Components and had the following part numbers:

526-1266
526-1389

7 months later and the monitor is still going strong. Hopefully the info will be of some use to the next person who has problems with this model.

[gonzo0815]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

AFAIK it is an IPS panel screen, still expensive, 16,7M colors and fast response time.

[spunkmyer]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

So far so good no problems very good monitor 8ms response 17in screen very happy as it was given to me by one of my customers.

I supplied the LCD screen 3 years ago and it broke 1 month after the warranty runs out oh well, strange to think that it has come back to me .

So in at cost £18 to fix not bad really and I have a few spare caps that my be useful.

Mike

[gonzo0815]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Nice that you fixed this one, i am getting the same monitor in the next few weeks. I hope that the caps are the problem there too.
As far as i have informations, the problem is that it always is showing a error message, thus it is may be a semiconductor problem.
But until i haven`t replaced some caps, hope is there.

[i4004]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

good to know you fixed it.

[spunkmyer]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Ok...................

Here goes............. Removed the 1000uf 16v cap but it took some time as I am good with solder work but not on this scale of size.

Cleared out the old solder,put it to position the 1200uf 16v using the wait of the board to keep it close to the pcb then using solder lent by a good friend who is the electronics engineer who suggested this type of solder for pcb work, soldered the cap in to place carefully making sure not strays of solder.

After this decided to test the screen so hooked up the kettle lead and d-sub and taking a deep a breath pushed the power button and after a few seconds the screen powered on and showed a clear picture of Call of Duty 4 and did not repeat the fault.

so I will replace other three caps in the next few days.

Again thanks for all your help so far Starfury1 I am grateful for your help and also thanks to for you help Gonzo0815, i4004, Krankshaft

Mike

[starfury1]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

just looking around a few threads here

did find a link to Hermei LZ series, These are suppose to be Ultra low ESR
(and they might be for all of 5 minutes )



original thread

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...&highlight=lcd

So if they were LZ series then FM series possibly would have been the choice for the specs of the LZ crap

although I tend to find around the FC range of caps being suggested for this type of application

Humm anyway, if FC (or any cap for that matter) are run out of spec they will eventually die the same way.

It really depends on the actual circuit demands even if they are LZ


Just on the PCB I would guess it isn't in the high quality league and is probably a single sided PCB so when removing the caps try not to dump too much heat into it or you could lift the copper (like don't hold the iron on it for a minute)

Also if you got no desolder gear check the FAQ's and use a Needle STAINLESS Steel to clear the holes
Its quicker and less chance of damage from stuffing around with desolder pumps....if you haven't clear it with one of those by the second attempt, run the needle through.

should be easier to do them trying to get VRM caps out of a MB.

Lastly give the solder side a good visual check especially were the transformers are or any components mounted to heat sinks

if you notice discoloration around these area's thats from heat, it can actually warp the PCB

what happens is expansion and contraction on the solder joint with fixed components can cause the solder joint to fracture
(hair line thats sometimes is hard to see)

rework any joints that are suspect in this regard is my advice but there also "if it ain't broke don't fix it" too

Good luck and post back on it, its nice to have a conclusion

Cheers Mike, All

[spunkmyer]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

Cheers guys........

OK I have order the 1200uf 16v caps and the 470 16v caps from RS. they should be here next Tuesday.

A friend at work is a whiz at solder work and has offered to do the soldering if I get stuck but I wont learn if I don't try so........ the old trusty dead motherboard will get some use for practice as i'm ok with solder work but.......

As always I will keep you posted

Mike

[starfury1]

Re: Iiyama Prolite E431S Turns off

just really my thoughts on it

normally "same with same" is best idea if you dont know the circuit or what effect it will have on the circuit

but here in lies the problem

Most of what used in these positions on these types of boards "dont" last
I don't know if its cause there just crap or GP crap
but "sooner" rather then later these caps pop and there is a fair few posts on this type of failure on these types of boards

As I said above I think its a Pi filter of a switcher of some kind

Low ESR is recommend for switchers

granted
A quality GP is much more likely to last longer then any crap one when used within specs
and sure GP will work for a time.
but is a GP really a recommended cap for this circuit
or was it just used cause it was cheap and would last a year or 2
(if they were GP caps)

Remember the caps used here were probably selected by the bean counters not the Engineer

If your going to do the job you may as well do it once do it right and be done with it.

I cant see any mention of them being low ESR type cap
so personally I wouldn't use them.
(if you want longest term reliability)

I cant see a problem with going to 1200uf considering it "nominal" 1000uf meaning electrolytics capacitance spec can and does vary by up to 20%

for a bit more on what its all about Mike see the wiki on electrolytic capacitors

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

Just on that board too...its a power supply/ inverter board (for LCD back light)
Mike, sometimes they are build together and other times they are separate pcb's

This appears to be a common type failure from posts around here ( net in general)
and inverters are known to go a lot too with these things
(TFT LCD in general I am talking)

HTH

Cheers