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What about cutting the old cap at the very bottom off and use it as an “adapter” and solder the new cap on to that? Looks silly but it works. On old ham radio restorations, forks gut the old cap and put a new cap inside in order to keep that vintage look. I think the diameter between new and old is the same, but the length is different. So you got 3 choices.
A: put the old caps in and wait for them to fail
B: put the cap in I showed you
C: cut the bottom off the old cap and use it as an adapter for the new one you got.Comment
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I was thinking about trimming the leads on the inside, taking about 1.5mm off each blade. That would give me the 10mm I need for the spacing. Those blades are about 4mm wide each. Leaving a good 2mm for each side. More than a regular snap in lead thickness, which is about 1.5 mm per lead. Could that be a possibility?Comment
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Never hurts to try if you are feeling up to it. You can always buy the other ones as a last resort.Comment
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Yea, the ones you found are perfect, but a little pricy. $30.00 each. That's a little more than I want to spend now, but an excellent choice. I can't under stand why there are not more out there. MOUSER only had the ones I have. Who knows. I'm going to cut those blades to fit the slots in the board. I cut the leads, successfully.Attached FilesLast edited by rccrasher65; 07-17-2025, 09:51 AM.Comment
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Good job!
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Well I did not finish the cap install, got a little busy with life,and now vacation time is coming up in a few days, so I'll get back at it when we get home from our trip. I only have the other two caps,and relay to do. Then it's time For the big show. See ya in a few. ThanksComment
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Hi, I'm seeing one 9V relay having temperature 40C on its 9V (primary) side. Does that seem right? I switched 2 relays on that board and the temperature was the same (on the same position), so I'm sure it's not a faulty relay. I measured voltage on that relay and it was 9.5V DC, so that looks good. I don't see any other relay on that board having that kind of temperature and they have 9V on them too.
I thought maybe the transistor that is switching this relay keeps switching on/off, so I also checked for AC and there was almost none: 0.3V using mV range. No steady frequency was shown, but... -
Hi everyone!
I have this board that suddenly stopped supplying power to an output that drives an interchanger cleaner motor.
I checked while the board was in place with all wires attached and there's no AC voltage on the corresponding plug X5
This X5 is driven by fuse F8 (tested OK) which comes from the second orange relay
To make sure there are no charcoaled contacts inside the relay, I got a 24VDC power supply and got it ready to manually power up the coil side of these relays.
I respected the polarity, positive to cathode of protecting diode
So provided all... -
I was working on this CNC machine today found no keyboard functioning no control relay powering on
The screen powered on and was giving an operation error but the manual was not very clear about what the error exactly was but with a little bit of troubleshooting and finding out that the control relays not powering on and no keyboard functions we narrowed down to this one switching power supply which of course does not have any indicator LED light they are on the keyboard interface/relay controller board
Found shorted diodes on main controller relays there are 3 of them that... -
Hello everyone!
Recently I've noticed that some ShopJimmy backlight strips don't have double-sided tape installed upon them when an application calls for it, and I must purchase the tape separately. In a recent chat conversation with a customer service agent I told them if this tape wasn't applied when it was called for I would begin to consider ordering my backlight strips elsewhere. It looks like this time may have come.
I recently got a TCL 65S4 with bad backlights. After looking at the SJ listing here: https://www.shopjimmy.com/tcl-jl-d65...365as-m-led-ba...Yes0%1All backlight strips are the same quality0%1No0%0 -
Hello all,
I'm stumped on this guy, so wanted to see if anyone has any further ideas:
Intro:
This is an Acer Nitro 5 AN515-55-55M1 with unknown prior history (bought "as-is" on eBay). It charges the battery and powers on from both AC adapter and battery, so I think this rules out main power issues.
Upon attempt to boot, it will "reboot" (meaning powers down and then powers on again) only once, and then stays stuck in a status of lights on / no post / no monitor. Powering on with fn+esc maxes out the fans on first boot attempt,...
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