DrDos
Member
Last Activity: Today, 09:45 AM
Joined: 08-08-2025
Location: crystal river florida
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Okay so now the lights come on but if I move the reciever around on the table they go off and on like there is a short. Unsure how to check that. -
Well tough job. Pin 8 seems to have something like 40 to 45 volts. Pin 11 seems to show closer to 72 volts. Having a hard time finding pin 5 but none of the pins on that side shows less than 10volts and 3 are. OMG I was just poking around the side of pins and the lamps all lit up. I now have a lighted dial and have no idea what I did. Any thought or maybe something else to check?Leave a comment:
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I wonder, if it is the switch (on/off - speakers) I have a single pull single throw 250v switch to use to bypass the carbonized points in the current switch, although I cleaned the switch and I show continuity from 0 to 100% by turning the unit on (not plugged in). Would that work? I'm going to test the supply board now. ThanksLeave a comment:
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Thanks Agent24, That info is awesome. I get nothing when I try to fire it up. I currently only have an analog meter but will try to see what I get looking for the voltages. I'm glad the ceramic is still good it looked kinda fried on one side. Leme get to checkin the power board, oh and the relay yes, it's the one that is supposed to click just after turning the unit on speaker safety I guess. ThanksLeave a comment:
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Well, I cleaned the board. Might try to doa bit better but I wonder if it is completly screwed up now. I'm thinking if the cap was laying across the (rails?) and shorted out then it may have ruined other items on the board. Perhaps the only way to know is change the cap and see or why was it put in such a place anyway? All it does is connect one pin to another on the same plugin. Of course I don't know for sure if it really belongs there or not. Any advice would be welcome, thank you. Meanwhile I will check the relay.Leave a comment:
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In my research I found that it is a ceramic cap. The P stands for +100% - -0% and the 103 stands for 10,000 uF or 10nF. Is this correct? how do I order one not knowing the volts? btw this is all my fault. I inadvertingly pressed the cap up against the board when I put it back in after taking pics. I don't think I tried to turn the reciever on after that so I'm unsure how it broke down like that. Do you think I should give this up?Leave a comment:
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I couldn't find it anywhere on the schematic or the parts list. The object (cause I am not sure it's a cap) says e103 and a y inside a circle on it.Leave a comment:
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I went to connect the battery 9v to try and look what I found (see pic) I belive this is a bad capacitor on the bottom of the board. This was not there before as I cleaned all the boards with 91% rubbing alcohol. I'll see if I have one of these caps. I wonder what it does, This must have happened when I last tried to fire it up.Leave a comment:
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is there a specific size of battery?Leave a comment:
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Yes, thank you sage I got those pictures from the manual I have except yours has 19 pages instead of 18 and I think it looks better. The parts list is what I am using to pick out capacitors. Unfortunatly I do not know how to check a transformer or relay with an analog meter. I have to wait until I get my next retirement check and go buy a digital one. The relay does not click like it is supposed to when I fire it up.Leave a comment:
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Hmmm, I noticed in trying to click on the pic there was no way to zoom into it. Let me know if you want close ups of the schematic.Leave a comment:
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I hope tyhe schematic is good enough to read. I took some better pics by taking out the power board with the relay on it. Hard to see otherwise. Thanks for the help.Leave a comment:
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I was told the power on/off switch had a problem. Apparently it has contacts that carbonize themselves over time. I took it apart and cleaned the contact area and took the carbon off the contacts. Using continuity across the solder joints when I turn the unit on I get continuity and it goes off when I turn it off. So I think I fixed it. Can't get another switch. Personally I think the relay is bad, just a hunch. If you would like specific pics please let me know and thank you for the help.Leave a comment:
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Oh, I am familiar with the stripe and the positive negative aspect of the caps. Most have the stripe.Leave a comment:
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To Andrew and Great sage: The brand for most of them is Rubycon I can figure the sizes in mm, I know the uF and volts for them. Yes some of them have temps or maybe all I just can't see them. I am working off a parts list for the stereo from the manufacturer. I also have a schematic. I have also found Jemeco distributers where I can put the uF and volts and get a capacitor to purchase. My problem is I am looking to replace ALL the electrolitic capacitors in the power supply, the relay for it so the problem is just ordering the uF and volts does not tell me what they look like. I mean there are...Leave a comment:
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hello all. My name is Don, I'm 69 years old and have very little knowledge of electronics. I posted a problem I am having in the capacitor section but I think it is being redirected somewhere I probably should have put it. I am learning some things about electronics specifically vintage stereo's but I also see a need to learn about my guitar gear, my studio mixer and well it would be nice to learn enough to fix those things and not kill myself doing it. I have built a dim bulb tester and am currently working on my Kenwood KR-6030. I also have an analog meter but will get a digital next month....Leave a comment:
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Kenwood KR-6030 vintage stereo ,Old Man Trying to Save a Buck
Hello all. I'll try to keep this short. I have no knowledge of electronics. I can use a multimeter and am familiar with caps to some extent. I bought a Kenwood KR-6030 vintage stereo. It need work and so I thought I would recap the thing since I get power to the on switch but nothing else is working. No lights, no sound and so forth. I went to Mouser to order caps and I find I am way over my head. I not only do not know the type of capacitors I need but Mouser and digikey do not accept Kenwood part numbers. I have the info such as 220uF 63v and such but no place to put it. I could buy a recap...
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