DrDos
Senior Member
"Status: working on my Kenwood KR-6030 reciever. Next is a Luxman RX-101. Needs a motor."
Last Activity: Yesterday, 07:51 PM
Joined: 08-08-2025
Location: crystal river florida
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Well, since the colors of the wire do not matter if I follow the schematic and put the jumpers where I think they belong according to the schematic then I should be ok. Apparently there is an incorrect wire I found checking them last night so I will put the wire in the correct place and change the jumpers and then crank it up. I find this 6030 an extremely easy stereo to work on and wouldn't mind working on it all day. I've taken it apart several times and am aware of the pitfalls. I have a call in the Alps to see if they hae old stock wafers for the switch they made for Kenwood but it plays just... -
let me ask you this, as I see it according to the schematic A- left is jumped to B+ left? and A- right is jumped to B+ right? I believe that is to make the A+B work but maybe I am wrong. It looks like there is a jumper to those wires on the schematic.Leave a comment:
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Alright, lets check the B side: On switch pin 1 (black) I get A- Left and B-Left. On switch pin 2 (gray) I get A- Left and B- Left & Right. On switch pin 4 (orange) I get B+ Left. On switch pin 5 (yellow) I get A+ Left. On switch pin 8 (purple) I get A- Left and B- Left and Right. On switch pin 10 (green) A- Right and B+ Right. On switch pin 11 (blue) I get A+ Right. That's where the continuity goes from the switch. I hope it makes sense to you, because I'm kinda lost.
Now lets check the A + B side: On switch pin 1 (black) I get A- Left and B- Left and B-Right. On switch pin 2...Leave a comment:
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WOW! Okay my friend. I think something si wrong. I put the switch in the A position I get per switch pin starting a #1 ground (black wire) =A- right and B+ left and right. On switch pin 2 (gray wire) I get B- Right. Pin 3 is empty. On switch pin 4 (orange) A- right and B+ left. On switch pin 5 (yellow) I get A+ left. Pin 6 and 7 go to lights and power board. On switch switch pin 8 (purple) I get A- and B- Left. pin 9 goes to power board. On switch pin 10 (Green) I get A- right and B+ right and left. On switch pin 11 (blue) I get A+ right. Pin 12 goes to lights and power board. When I say (I get)...Leave a comment:
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Okay, I think I can handle that. It will take me a while but I will let you know. Thank you very much for the idea I didn't think of it myself.Leave a comment:
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Well, according to J_R from badcaps the switch is correct. He marked the wires for me and they are where they are supposed to be. He also told me where to run the wires for the speakers. I do that. I think there is a problem with one of the wafers in the switch which I cannot deal with or maybe I just can't find the correct replacement wafers.Leave a comment:
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This is the board I am talking about. They call it the power board and it might be but I think for the speakers. The one you can see behind it is the tone board. There is a left and right side on it. because the caps are positioned in about the exact same place for both. Other than switch or wiring I just don't know where to look.Leave a comment:
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Let me ask you this: Please look at the schematic on my post before yours. To me according to the schematic it looks like there is a jumper from A- left to B+ left and one from B+ right to A- right. Right now I have a jumper from A- right to B+ right and A- left to B- left. These jumpers are suppose to facilitate the A+B trigger on the switch so I have both A and B speakers working at the same time. Can you tell me if the jumper positioning is currently correct? I just have nothing coming out the A side. Thank you.Leave a comment:
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Okay, what do you call the PCB board that holds the relay and has 2 identical left and right sides on either side of the relay. The schematic calls it a power board. The actual main power board I reallize is not the culprit. I have looked and checked everywhere. All resisteor, tarnsistors with exception to the tuner board. I have only changed one cap on it. I thinkl and I really hate to say it but the switch wiring J_R here gave me might not be right. The jumpers don't look like the schematic. I am waiting on 2 caps to replace in the tone board and then I'm going to change the speaker wiring of...Leave a comment:
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Yes, I do have one working channel (B) both left and right. My channel A left and right is not working. So, I changed all the caps on the power board that holds the relay and both left and right side speakers. I checked all the little black transistors and the main transistors which all seem to be good. I found one section right next to the relay on both side that had a bad carbon resister so I have ordered that and will replace them. I also installed new caps in the tone board. I wanted to get rid of that old dark brown cap glue which will deteriorate the board over time. I check all the resistors...Leave a comment:
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because like caps I thought the unit is 50 years old and parts do wear out, however, I thought maybe buy them now and if something happens then I have them.
I also just found out that my schematic has substitutes listed so I don't have to worry any more. I'm also buying new transistors for the output section just in case. Thanks for asking.Leave a comment:
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kenwood kr-6030 Mosfets?????
Hello everyone, I have decided to try and replace the mosfets in my power amp (the one with relay and left and right sides) on my kenwood kr-6030. I'm trying to get the A side of my speakers working. I have replaced all the caps in the power board and I thought why not change the mosfets. They seem to be working since I have great music coming out of the B side speakers and since I am not an electronic guru (but I am learning) I don't want to make any mistakes. The mosfets I have are listed A913 so I guess 2sa913 and 2sc1913. Can't really find those in mouser or digikey at least with the info... -
It's a wafer switch with 2 wafers 12 positions, 2 poles and box at the back that holds the contacts for on/off. See pics. IMO it would be pretty hard and definetly byond my expertise to bypass this thing.Leave a comment:
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If you look on my other thread page 4 you will see R_J helped me out with that. The wires are where they belong I just don't think the switch is connecting correctly to the wafer. I think the wafer is the problem, however, when I shake the switch it turn the unit off and back on again if I shake it a second time. Wierd. I have speakers on channel B only, left and right just not for A or A+B.Leave a comment:
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There are 12 pins on the switch plus the on/off. How could I bypass it?Leave a comment:
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Well, I found a loose wire or rather a broken wire and fixed it however now I find I only have music coming out of the B channel. I think the problem is in the switch (on/off, A, B, A+B). I think since you can't get a new one and I am not experienced enough to install new wafers even if I could find the right ones I'll just leave it alone and listen to 2 speakers on the B channel. Maybe I'll take it to Tampa someday there is a large HiFi repair place there. For those who have helped me R_J, Agent24, and I think tdj thanks a bunch you guys are great.Leave a comment:
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Unit runs but no speaker output kenwood KR-6030
I have finished my work. The new lights come on except the one for stereo, I reversed the bulbs to no affect, anyway, the unit powers on, relay clicks. I have no DC voltage in speaker outputs, I also do not have any AC in the speaker outputs. There is some faint crackling in the speaker. This unit cranks up loud so I had the volume on very low. Everything seems to be fine but I can't really check the switch until I can get sound out of the outputs. I was going to do caps for the power supplys and the tone board but thought if it was cranking loud at one time maybe just leave it alone until it... -
Yep! I'm a bonehead. I soldered the white wire to the wrong terminal. My bad. I'll fix it...Leave a comment:
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Sorry for all the posts. I can give you a better pic if you need it. Anyway, I get 120v across the top of where the fuse goes. I get 120v from the right top to right bottom. I get 120v top right to bottom left. I do not get 120v across the fuse or from bottom right to bottom left where the white wire connects to the 6amp fuse. I think this is the problem. Trying to figure out how to solve it hmmm....Leave a comment:
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I think I messed up screwing around with the broken fuse holder. What is the purpose of the big resistor attached to the lerft and right incoming power cable? I am thinking of bypassing the switched and unswitched outlets. I have no idea why I'm not getting power. None of the soldered connections are touching the fuse holder although I had to solder the fuse in place. Maybe that is the problem but if I can get rid of all the outlets I can run it straight through the fuse and be done unless the resistir or capcitor whatever it is, is no good.Leave a comment:
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