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Yep, cost me $24 for an 1/8in, 2 carbide dill bits I'll probably never use again....
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1/8 carbide drill bit, had to go another 1/8 in to drill it out. Came right off. All that bullshit for an 1/8in....
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Guess what I got done in a few min, with the correct tool? Yep it's off no damage, now to retap....
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Those are nice to do, love those multi pin Ic's, get to use hot air, and drag solder techniques. Monday I think will be the day I test the amp to see how we did. All the best on your project.Did you get that welder figured out?...
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Here are the components that were found to be bad. First the two output transistors near Q11. The two were completely dead no readings at all when removed. Q11 was deemed to be ok, but with low readings. It was changed, as was all the rest. Q10, Q9, Q12. Q9 also tested ok ,but with low readings. Next were resistors R23, burnt black, open no reading.R1as well. R3, 21,5,19,6 were all dark and replaced. Transistor Q5 was dead as well as Q1. I replaced all 8 of them anyway. All caps were replaced, one tested bad, C 6. Those are the components that were found to be bad. I replaced all 4 output transistors...
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Haven't seen anybody on here responding, Cap, you still with me. Pete you still here?
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Well got a few more components to check, and I will be ready for a dim bulb test. Hope for no light, and good working amp. I will also list, all the damaged components I found. There wasn't as many as I thought 6 or seven, but I replaced alot, even if they were good. Caps, transistors, a few resistors, that were bad ,or burned up dark looking,but still working.Goinf to post some pics as well of the board.
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Carbide drill bits arrived, I have a mini camera that I'm going to try and get a peak under that knob, and see what's holding up the removal. Drilling blind sucks, and could cause too much damage. I'm going to see if this will help see what's going on. I'll post those bad components this evening.
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All better now,unfortunately, we have alot of them, I call them entitled little bioches. Glad I'm retired, I couldn't, and wouldn't put up with that shit for to long....
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I ordered a set of carbide bits, should be here sat. Has anyone had this much trouble with this, or is it just me. In the mean time I'll go back and double check everything, I've done so far, with the components. I'll list all the bad one's that I found. I want to recap the unit, as an ultimate goal for this amp. I've been extra careful not to enlargen the small set screw hole, while doing this, it's at an 1/8in, just a tad larger than original hole by a 1/32, wanted to make sure I got the hole grub screw out, so I can re tap. Have a great weekend guys,and thanks for hanging in there with me,...
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It could be, but I think Petehall is right, I'm using stainless steel drill bits, trying to drill hardened steel, not getting anywhere in depth because of wrong bit, going to try some carbide bits. The darn set screw is only 3mm in length. When I take bit out and measure depth, I'm not even half way. I'll keep at it, till I get it off, may take awhile. I think I'm a little to far gone to try a left hand drill bit.
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I'm going to look for a set that will fit , that tiny hole, but I think it's a little late for all that. I've drilled the hell out of it, but still won't let loose. I'll give it a try. Thanks...
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Yea, I'm going to drill it out, bullcrap, this is hard as iron, been at it for two hrs, got maybe a mm, going no where fast, frustrated as he'll, and my bits are good , and sharp.WTF....
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I'm going to drill it out, and re tap, I tried everything. Pissed now, something as easy as this, turns out to be a night mare. Who would be so dumb as to put something in there, that's not supposed to be, and strip it. It's completely rounded out so I'm drilling it out, and re tapping. A 1/8 standard drill bit fits in the hole perfectly, and is large enough to drill out set screw. Now to find proper tap for 1/8 drill.
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IC'S always seem to be the trouble makers in all electronics. You got any suggestions for removing that 1.5mm set screw in the volume knob, it's stripped, I can't get it to loosen for nothing, all stripped out, will not be able to get to any components on control board with out removing that volume knob.It's definately stripped in there. It sits back about 1/2in, so what ever has to get at it must be thin and long. I was thinking an easy out but don't no if they make them that small. It's 1.5 mm....
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It has the stand-by light, but when I turn it on it shuts back off in 2 seconds, the protection circuit kicks in. No pic or sound , black screen. I believe it's the power supply, but that's another gents problem, it's under warranty!...
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Well what a bad weekend, My LG OLED just shit the bed 3 yrs old, I'm beyond pissed, $2,000 for 3 yrs. Thank God my wife was smart enought to purchase the 5 yr warranty plan. What is with these Tv's, and electronics these days. Everything just made to last past warranty. If anyone owns these OLED Sets, do yourself a solid , and buy the extended warranty, you'll be thankful that you did. End rant! Work continues on with the KA-701, I was just looking around the boards , and noticed a leaky cap on the control board, it's looks like it leaked, but not 100% sure, now to rip into that before I start...
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I know you'll be able to get it going.I did alot of Ps3, Ps5 a ways back. I hated all the bullcrap, doing those chips. They usually were matched to the boards, and if the chip was toast, so was the unit. I enjoyed working on the plasma tv's the most. Enjoy your weekend, I going to get back at it probably sun, or monday....
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Not, much behind there, a resistor or two, 2 pair of flat ceramic plate resistors, the big caps are in the way though. Those chips probably need reballed, I messed with that for a few yrs, way too much trouble, probably best to find a cheap replacement board, or send it out to someone who reballs the chips. Have a great weekend....
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