Ouch!
KENWOOD KA-701 POWERS ON, NO RELAY CLICK
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It could be, but I think Petehall is right, I'm using stainless steel drill bits, trying to drill hardened steel, not getting anywhere in depth because of wrong bit, going to try some carbide bits. The darn set screw is only 3mm in length. When I take bit out and measure depth, I'm not even half way. I'll keep at it, till I get it off, may take awhile. I think I'm a little to far gone to try a left hand drill bit.Comment
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I ordered a set of carbide bits, should be here sat. Has anyone had this much trouble with this, or is it just me. In the mean time I'll go back and double check everything, I've done so far, with the components. I'll list all the bad one's that I found. I want to recap the unit, as an ultimate goal for this amp. I've been extra careful not to enlargen the small set screw hole, while doing this, it's at an 1/8in, just a tad larger than original hole by a 1/32, wanted to make sure I got the hole grub screw out, so I can re tap. Have a great weekend guys,and thanks for hanging in there with me, much appreciated. Maybe we can get back to fixing electronics instead of farting with drilling shit out.Comment
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All better now,unfortunately, we have alot of them, I call them entitled little bioches. Glad I'm retired, I couldn't, and wouldn't put up with that shit for to long.Comment
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Carbide drill bits arrived, I have a mini camera that I'm going to try and get a peak under that knob, and see what's holding up the removal. Drilling blind sucks, and could cause too much damage. I'm going to see if this will help see what's going on. I'll post those bad components this evening.Comment
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Well got a few more components to check, and I will be ready for a dim bulb test. Hope for no light, and good working amp. I will also list, all the damaged components I found. There wasn't as many as I thought 6 or seven, but I replaced alot, even if they were good. Caps, transistors, a few resistors, that were bad ,or burned up dark looking,but still working.Goinf to post some pics as well of the board.Comment
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Here are the components that were found to be bad. First the two output transistors near Q11. The two were completely dead no readings at all when removed. Q11 was deemed to be ok, but with low readings. It was changed, as was all the rest. Q10, Q9, Q12. Q9 also tested ok ,but with low readings. Next were resistors R23, burnt black, open no reading.R1as well. R3, 21,5,19,6 were all dark and replaced. Transistor Q5 was dead as well as Q1. I replaced all 8 of them anyway. All caps were replaced, one tested bad, C 6. Those are the components that were found to be bad. I replaced all 4 output transistors to keep things even. I want to check a few more things before I use the dim bulb tester. I will post some pics of the board as well.Comment
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Those are nice to do, love those multi pin Ic's, get to use hot air, and drag solder techniques. Monday I think will be the day I test the amp to see how we did. All the best on your project.Did you get that welder figured out?Comment
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No... I was about to fiddle around with the programmable input and output pins, dragging them into the opposite direction on the ATMEGA and see if something changes on the blue LED or on the gas valve. I was hoping to find a problem with a pin, then backtracking the circuit. Then I was on the road and never made it back to the welder.Comment
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