KENWOOD KA-701 POWERS ON, NO RELAY CLICK

[rccrasher65]

d9 d10 is it ? remove one and use resistor and 2x 9v batteries and volt meter .

Not exactly sure, just looking at parts list. Never did what you are suggesting. Will need additional instructions. Thanks. I found all parts that were originals, except zener diode.

[rccrasher65]

These XZxxx zeners are a bit weird numbered. For example a XZ051 equals a 5.1V zener. It is NOT a 51V zener.
So what you are looking at is a XZ100 zener. That makes it a 10V. Check it out like petehall347 said above.

I did order about 8- 10v zeners, I thought it was a 10v, but wasn't sure.

[rccrasher65]

d9 d10 is it ? remove one and use resistor and 2x 9v batteries and volt meter .

Yes, D9-10

[rccrasher65]

These XZxxx zeners are a bit weird numbered. For example a XZ051 equals a 5.1V zener. It is NOT a 51V zener.
So what you are looking at is a XZ100 zener. That makes it a 10V. Check it out like petehall347 said above.

Also looking for equivalent to WZ-300, WZ-240, these are zeners, and Diode 1N60. Any suggestions. Trying to find replacements for the plate resistors as well, they are 33ohm, 10% 3W resistors.

[CapLeaker]

Geez... all that is broken? Can't be.
The 1N60 is a germanium diode. It is still available for sale for example futurelec.com. Also 1N34A, BAT41,1N60P etc.
WZ series zener diodes are 0.5 Watt type. Again a WZ240 = 24V. WZ300 = 30V.
As for the plate resistors... I dunno. Are they bad?

[rccrasher65]

Geez... all that is broken? Can't be.
The 1N60 is a germanium diode. It is still available for sale for example futurelec.com. Also 1N34A, BAT41,1N60P etc.
WZ series zener diodes are 0.5 Watt type. Again a WZ240 = 24V. WZ300 = 30V.
As for the plate resistors... I dunno. Are they bad?

No, not all are bad, but I have two of these amps, mine, and my dad's which we are currently working on.I plan on doing a complete overhaul on both eventually so I'm locating parts for both.My philosophy is If I'm pulling it out to check it, it's getting replaced good or bad. I only work on my stuff, and the parts are not that crazy expensive. Except those output Trans I blew. I do believe some parts are coming today. Thanks again for all your help on this project.

[CapLeaker]

I get the germanium diodes… they can break by just using too much heat. The resistors, I'd leave alone unless they are burnt, open, or out of tolerance. Definitely change all the caps then.

[rccrasher65]

I get the germanium diodes… they can break by just using too much heat. The resistors, I'd leave alone unless they are burnt, open, or out of tolerance. Definitely change all the caps then.

Most of them resistors are dark, I will check each piece, as I go along,I do have enough to replace all components on the the board though. I'm going to replace everything on that side by Trans.Q11 the problem in the first place, before I caused the rest of the damage with my slip.

[rccrasher65]

Well parts came in and, most of the resistors have to be returned, so It will be another week at least before I can get started. I do have the big output transistors so I'm going to start there, then the smaller Trans. Caps will follow. At that point I should have the resistors. I will change everything around Q11, because of the short I caused. I,'LL post pics of each step. Thanks guys, and have a great weekend.

[CapLeaker]

Maybe take on high resolution picture from the boards each from top, it's kind of hard to follow a board in sections.

[rccrasher65]

Maybe take on high resolution picture from the boards each from top, it's kind of hard to follow a board in sections.

Ok will get that this weekend, and post.Have a great weekend sir.

[rccrasher65]

Starting on Tuesday replacing, some components. I will start with Q11, and do those 4 transistors, then the caps, followed by the 4 big output transistors. I'll post some pics as I go along.

[rccrasher65]

Starting on Tuesday replacing, some components. I will start with Q11, and do those 4 transistors, then the caps, followed by the 4 big output transistors. I'll post some pics as I go along.

Started today with some component replacement.I decided to start with the hardest first, those output transistors, 5 1/2hrs for 2. What a PITA, those were, who ever designed this needs a good ass kicking, but they got done with a lot of words not permitted here. Once they are done, tomorrow, I will post some pics. Then onto Q11, Q10, Q9 ect. Caps will follow. Thanks for your patience guys, will keep you posted. Thanks again.

[CapLeaker]

Ha! You not the only one that can swear like @#$&! There are MUCH worse things than an amp! But this is just about a daily thing these days.

[rccrasher65]

Ha! You not the only one that can swear like @#$&! There are MUCH worse things than an amp! But this is just about a daily thing these days.

I agree, they are all done and soldered in. I'm going to post some pics, and move on to Q11, Q10, ect. The two output transistors near Q11, were definately blown. The other two tested ok, but all 4 were replaced.

[rccrasher65]

Here are some pics, they are all over the place in phone instead of one folder, still learning this pic attachment crap. I'll get better as we go along.

[CapLeaker]

You are right and change always that transistor pair if you can. Getting along nicely now!

[rccrasher65]

Just a quick check of resistors in area of Q11, Q9 found res.23 smoked, open, res1 smoked, open.most other look good so far,and testing fine, but will double check them all. My new resistors are same value as on parts list, but are considerably smaller in physical size, will this be a problem.

[CapLeaker]

you mean R11 and R23. These should have the same wattage rating (size) than the old ones. I think they should be a standard 1/4w resistor. R11 should be a 3.5kohm and R23 should be 82ohm.
If you put a smaller wattage rated resistor in, it may not be able to handle the current and go "poof" or overheat.