I use desoldering vacuum pump. Otherwise cutting the legs and desoldering them individually is also an option. DIP packages with many pins are always PITA. They are easy to solder, but much harder to remove. This is why on some PCB-s they use sockets for these kind of chips.
Useful conversions. I don't "speak" imperial. Please use metric, if you want to address me.
1km=1000m=100000cm, 1inch=2.54cm, 1mile=1609.344meters, 1ft=30.48cm 1gal(US)=3.785liters, 1lb=453grams, 1oz=28.34grams
Sometimes I'll use solder wick if I don't have much to do, and I don't want to wait for my desolder gun to heat up. Name brand wick is definitely superior. I always dunk it in flux, but before that, I fan it out a bit, not much, just so it's not so tight as chinese wick can be, that really helps. Even then, it takes a bit of luck to get all the solder out of the hole.
For a chip that big, I'd have used my desoldering gun to get most of the solder out of the holes, then used a touch of chip-quick, and maybe my hot air station to keep the area hot. If I was worried about ripping traces, I'd use a IC popper also.
I've been soldering for years, and I have NEVER been able to use wick to clean holes and remove components like some videos show.
It does look way easier on camera. It took me close to an hour to get TWO pins of a capacitor solder free enough to remove using wick last night.
I'm getting pretty good at the manual solder sucker pump, For some reason they only come with 2 silicon tips that invariably get burned up, I had to track down a rando in China to sell me a 100 pack of them.
It does look way easier on camera. It took me close to an hour to get TWO pins of a capacitor solder free enough to remove using wick last night.
At least you got them out!
I've always got solder stuck somewhere and then just gave up with the wick. Then again, it probably helps to have good wick for that kind of work. I have... truly I don't know what it is - it's all pieces from leftover wick rolls that would get tossed at a repair shop I used to work at long time ago. We used the wick there for cleaning BGA pads, which doesn't really care that much about the quality of the wick - just flood the BGA pads with lots of good flux, and any wick will usually work OK.
Anyways, in regards to removing simple 2-pin or 3-pin through-hole components - I rarely bother to pull out my bulb solder sucker RS iron. 99.99% of the time, I just prefer to "walk" the component out of its holes and then clean the holes from solder with a needle.
Actually, this is the desoldering "walk"/"wiggle" method I use: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...7&postcount=23
^ Takes me very little time to get a cap out - maybe 20 seconds or so, if even that much (on single-layer boards, 10 seconds, tops.) Then the cleaning of the holes another 20 per hole... so about 1 minute to remove a cap and clean its holes - and that's with a thick multi-layer PCB with lead-free solder. Single-sided PCBs probably take half of that time.
I'm getting pretty good at the manual solder sucker pump, For some reason they only come with 2 silicon tips that invariably get burned up, I had to track down a rando in China to sell me a 100 pack of them.
Meh. They require too much maintenance to use for everything. I only use my solder sucker pump when my RS bulb solder sucker iron doesn't suck enough (in this case, "suck" being a desired attribute, like with vacuum cleaners ). And in any case, I use these two only when dealing with multi-pin ICs and non-multi-layer PCBs.
Multi-layer PCBs - especially with lead-free solder - tend to make wick and use of desoldering guns / pumps / suckers ineffective and slow. If the pins of the component are spaced fairly close together and there are no nearby SMD components to disturb, I'll just melt a large pool of solder and flood all of the pins with it. Then it's just a matter of pulling the component out (and watching your hands/finger, as the molten solder will often follow with it, making it super easy to burn your fingers - ask how I know that one. ) A few weeks back, I used this method to pull a PS/2 Keyboard and Mouse connector stack from a motherboard that had a bad pin in the KB port. I tried to use my solder sucker pump and RS bulb sucker iron first, but those didn't work. So flooding the pins with solder it was.
I just prefer to "walk" the component out of its holes and then clean the holes from solder with a needle.
Actually, this is the desoldering "walk"/"wiggle" method I use:
Multi-layer PCBs - especially with lead-free solder - tend to make wick and use of desoldering guns / pumps / suckers ineffective and slow.
I use these methods my self but with a slightly different take
When comes to using the Disordering gun on some boards when it does not want to melt the solder I add a little bit lead solder and most of the time this helps and if this does not work I turn the temperature all the way up to maximum add a little more of that solder and try again
Two and three pin parts most of the time I use the walk"/"wiggle" method ( as long as the part is not mount on a heat sink ) which works most of the time if the part has room to move back and forth [ I find that if you can keep the pin on the part moving while you suckling the solder helps a lot then move the to the other pin of the part and remove it *** three pin parts are a little different depending on how the pins mount the part ]
I worry about "walking" a component out - sometimes the PTV walks out with it or solder walks into the hole...
Suddenly sucking is really good? But I think what really would be best is a high thermal mass solder iron, which is hard to realize when you need a small tip. Even my vacuum rework station has low thermal mass and it struggles with desoldering some stuff as well.
Suddenly sucking is really good? But I think what really would be best is a high thermal mass solder iron, which is hard to realize when you need a small tip. Even my vacuum rework station has low thermal mass and it struggles with desoldering some stuff as well.
My Desoldering Gun tips I have taken a dermal cutoff disk and made the flatness more pronounced and does help some what but if you need a small hole for capacitor leads it kind-a defeat the purpose of a small tip opening I am not sure what the the solution is for this type of problem
if i have a board with a big copper area, i just heat it with the hot air station first to a couple of hundred degrees - then hit it with the desoldering station.
if i have a board with a big copper area, i just heat it with the hot air station first to a couple of hundred degrees - then hit it with the desoldering station.
I use these methods my self but with a slightly different take
When comes to using the Disordering gun on some boards when it does not want to melt the solder I add a little bit lead solder and most of the time this helps and if this does not work I turn the temperature all the way up to maximum add a little more of that solder and try again
Yea, I've done that too. But it's still a pain if the board has thick copper layers. Luckily, I rarely have to do any through-hole multi-pin component removal, so I'm not too bothered. But when all options are exhausted, I just bright the "Solder Sloth" (see eccerr0r's avatar ) to work by flooding everything with molten solder, lol.
Two and three pin parts most of the time I use the walk"/"wiggle" method ( as long as the part is not mount on a heat sink ) which works most of the time if the part has room to move back and forth
if i have a board with a big copper area, i just heat it with the hot air station first to a couple of hundred degrees - then hit it with the desoldering station.
I used to do that when I only had my 30-Watt Radio Shack plug-in type iron and wanted to recap motherboards. This actually worked OK... but was still slow and a pain in the end. Even if you heat the board to a very high temperature, it will cool down rather quickly due to large surface area. And then you have to re-heat it again and again and again... just gets old very fast. Not to mention you can't heat the board too much if you have any intentions of holding it to work on (even if you wear heat-resistant gloves.) So in the end, I gave up on that method... or at least don't use it much. But in a pinch, it can work, so good to keep in the back of your mind.
i can heat a board with the left hand and desolder with the right hand at the same time
I go long this but sometimes it is hard to keep the board in one place if it is a large board and your board holder will not hold it in place then it is a real pain in the a** to do
Even if you can sandwich it between your legs ( I am not trying to be funny here ) to hold the board in one place even doing this is a pain in the a** to do as well
Well, that sentence still made me chuckle quite a bit.
well thats fine... just make sure the board doesnt vibrate while its between your legs or else it might cause an unwanted reaction!! oops we're not women here and this is not the vip room... never mind... just disregard what i said!
Comment