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I may reorient the cap to be laying the other way, and shorten the leads considerably to there isn't as much wire. The new cap is a little taller than the old one so I can't stand it up like it used to be anyway...
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I might have found the issue... I might have bought the wrong main board off eBay
My original has a model number of TNPH0716[SIZE=22px]3A[/SIZE]. The one they sent me was TNPH0716[SIZE=22px]ABS[/SIZE]. They look identical and seem to have the same chips on them, but perhaps they have different firmware or software?
So my assumption now is that my power board is fine, it was my main board that got damaged, the main board I was sent is fine, but it's the wrong one for my TV, because of that it triggers the SOS condition and gives the single red light blink indicating an issue...Last edited by SluggerB; 06-06-2025, 03:31 PM.
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Update: I found a better service manual for the TV, which pointed out where to test for th STB voltage, and it IS present on the power board.
I put the old main board back in and it did what it always did.[LIST][*]With the original main board in, when you turn the TV on, it turns on, the power light stays steady, there is no picture. It will just sit like this.[*]With the new main board in, when you turn the TV on, after a few seconds, it goes into an "SOS" mode, turns itself off, and gives a single blink. According to this manual, one blink means "Communication Error...
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I checked the back of the power board (and the front, and both sides of the main board) under magnification and nothing is obviously broken. Both boards look pristine. I could randomly check components but I dont't know what the correct values are. The only thing I have found that I know if incorrect is the standby voltage should be 5v and it is not....
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This is the original power supply. I replaced the main board. The replacement power supply is in the mail but not here yet.
I am hypothesizing that a power surge sent to much voltage thorough the power board and fried the original main board (which is why I got no functioning error messages) then the power board failed and now is not giving correct voltages to the replacement main board....
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Well I'm not the best at reading schematics, but Page 30 shows P7 as the STB connection between the power board and the Main board and it should be 5V but I am only reading 3.5. I do not see any 3.5V input to the main board from the power board either. So it seems the power board is outputting the wrong voltage
Edit: I just checked the STB again right now and it is at 2.6 mV. What is going on with this thing?...Last edited by SluggerB; 06-06-2025, 11:30 AM.
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The surge protector is art of a UPS I have other things plugged into. I don;t have the TV plugged into the battery backup outlets but the other outlets are "surge protected"
I swapped the main board and got different errors and still no working TV. I did find that the STB voltage is reading 3.5v from the power board, and I believe it should be 5v, so maybe something else was damaged on the power board? I have a replacement power board on the way but won't be here till next wednesday...
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OK, so I found .... something
Turns out the 5v STB test points are on the main board, not the Power Board. There are two points by where it is marked. I tested each, and they are reading 3.5v, not 5v. See the picture of the main board with two red circles, that's where I tested.
I followed the wiring where I believe the Power Board is supplying voltage to the Main board, and tested the red wire on that connector. It as well is testing 3.5v. See picture of Power board to see where I tested
Any ideas what could cause that 5v rail to drop to 3.5v?
...
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Where can I test that 5V STB to make sure it is there? I see no labeled test points on the power board
[url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-tvs-and-video-sources/23021-panasonic-th-50px80u-no-picture[/url] has identical photos to all my boards so that is a reference.https://Where can I test that 5V STB...-picture[/url]
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So I disconnected all the wires and ribbon cables to rule out bad connections. Now, instead of getting 12 blinks, I am getting 1. This is with the original Power Board, with original cap, and new Main board. I tried reseating everything again, no dice. TV will turn on with remote press, then turn off and give a 1 blink code forever until you unplug...
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I d not understand what you are saying
I swapped the original 1900uf cap back on the power board and reinstalled it. The new main board showed up today and I put that in but th TV till doesn't work. It turns on but I get 12 blinking red lights on the front and no picture on the screen....
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The TV set up is coax from wall -> cable box > HDMI out from cable box > HDMI to TV. There was also an Amazon Fire Stick in another HDMI port
Thing is both the cable box and the Fire stick are perfectly fine. As is every other electrical appliance in the house. I would imagine if enough power went though either of them to damage the TV, they would have been damaged themselves. The lightning was nearby but not a direct hit on anything.
Tried that, nothing. I swapped the cap I thought was bad out of the power board and same behavior, I plug the Tv...
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Panasonic TH-50PX80 killed by lightning strike, help me save her!
Yes it's a 17 year old Panasonic plasma!
I was watching TV when there was a huge lighting strike nearby my house that shook the house. When that happened, the picture on the TV froze and the TV wouldn't turn off except by pulling the power cable. Now if you plug in the TV, it seems to turn on (it makes the turn on "clikcs" it always does, the red power light comes on but there is no picture, although I can see the back light around the edges. And the TV doesn't respond to the power button on the remote to turn off, and doesn't respond to the manual power button on the front...Last edited by SluggerB; 06-04-2025, 07:05 PM.
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Funny you mention that, I found the guts to turn it on, and the TV had the same problem. I then tested the original cap out of circuit an it tests OK. So I'm just going to put it back. I guess even though it looks a little swollen it actually isn't bad.
Backstory on the TV - I was watching TV when there was a huge lighting strike nearby my house that shook the house. When that happened, the picture on the TV froze and the TV wouldn't turn off except by pulling the power cable. Now if you plug in the Tv, it seems to turn on, but there is no picture, although I can see the back light...
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Would this be safe?
I am trying to fix a broken plasma TV by replacing a large cap on the power board. It is a 1900uf 220v cap and I could only find one place that sells them. It was listed as through hole, so I bought it. It showed up today, but instead of through hole, it has spade connectors.
Would it be safe to get some heavy duty wire (like lamp cord wire), connect that to spade connectors, connect them to the spades on the cap, and run the other ends of the wire 2-3 inches to the holes and then through the holes and solder them in place? I actually did it already and put it together but...
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It's 17 years old. It did it's job. All it says on the other side is:
nichicon
CE 105C
C U (M)
I did eventually find something on Digikey that had the same specs. [url]https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKLA221LIN192KA54M/17728518[/url]
That was the only 1900uf 220V snap in capacitor in stock I could find anywhere on the internet. I'm hoping that is good enough to get the TV back up and running. I would like to get another nichicon for longevity but I can't find them for sale anywhere.It's 17 years old. It did it's...Last edited by SluggerB; 06-03-2025, 08:07 AM.
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Where to find capacitor for Plasma TV - 220V 1900uf?
Having a hard time finding one of these in stock anywhere....
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