Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

[Gorrillasnot]

Hello,

When plugged in I get no standby light or any signs of life.

I took it apart and from just doing a quick visual inspection I noticed a MOSFET that looks burned out ( has a hole burnt in it and the right leg is burnt off) and there is a thermistor up next to a couple of relays that has a whole burnt in it as well.

I checked the 3 fuses with my DMM and the 1 at position F1 was blown.

The fuse is labeled T8.0A H 250V
The MOSFET is labeled F1 J44, FDPF, 7N50U (there are 4 alike in positions Q706-Q709).
The thermistor is labeled SCK, 086, 831D and it's position is TH1.

Do you think if I replace the bad MOSFET (and test and/or replace the others), the thermistor, and the fuse that it will work or is there more components likely bad as well?

or should I just get the repair kit from shopjimmy and a thermistor (if I can figure out where to buy one) and go that route?

Chassis is Philips LC8.1U LA
Power supply is 272217100571, 2300KEG033A-F, PLHL-T722A

I haven had a chance to take pictures of the actual board I am working on yet, but in the meantime I uploaded a pic I downloaded with the damage locations circled in red.

thanks

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

I finally was able to get some pictures of my psu board.

any ideas guys?

thanks

[CapLeaker]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

Put a 100w light bulb in series with the AC mains line to prevent further damage on the PSU or after you exchanged parts.
Only because you don't see more blown parts, doesn't mean you are done there. You want to check diodes and even resistors too. All depends on what kind of equipment you have and how far you want to go. Be careful on the hot side of the PSU, there can be 39oV DC stored in those main filter caps!
What makes you think the thermistor is bad?

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

thanks CapLeaker for the info.

My knowledge is fairly limited when it comes to repairing TVs and my equipment is limited to a DMM so I don't want to get too involved.

I don't really know how to test the thermistor to see if its good or bad, but there is a hole burnt in it so I figured I would just replace it.

I thought about just replacing the whole board, but it seems replacement psu boards for this tv are fairly expensive.
However I did notice a guy on ebay selling what he calls an "alternative" psu for this TV. His price is a bit high for me and he doesnt list a part number, but to me it looks exactly like a 2300KPG101A-F psu which I have seen in the $50 range. Would this "alternative" psu be a good idea if I can't repair my original board?

Link to "alternantive" psu http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternatives...item234d20e80b

thanks

[tw2005]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

The repair kit for these seems extensive if this how they commonly fail.

They list 2 scenarios plus give locations. maybe you could ride on the back of those lists and see if any show failed for more clues?

Symptoms: Dead set, no 5V standby, no 12V, 24V or Power Factor Correction

Part 2
Symptoms: No backlights



http://www.shopjimmy.com/philips-272...repair-kit.htm

[CapLeaker]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

If he lists that as a alternative board to yours, you can always try it and if it doesn't work, send it back.

Good idea to check them repair kits out and check the parts on your board. But with limited abilities and tools, I thing it's better to find a used working board or a cheap replacement of some sort.

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

thanks for the info guys.

That's a good idea on using the repair kit locations to test for bad parts.

Do you think this would be a ok alternative to the thermistor on my board?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...228-ND/1191003
The chat support guy @ digikey said it should work, but I figured I'd ask here to make sure.
My original one is labled SCK-086 and the only place that has that exact model is china on ebay (long shipping time)

thanks

[CapLeaker]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

that digikey part should do the trick.

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

I ended up buying the thermistor from digikey and ordered the repair kit from shopjimmy.

I didn't know how to test the 2 ICs so I replaced IC FSQ510 at position U101. The IC at position U201 I left alone because it isn't mentioned as often in other threads regarding this PSU board as U101 is. Plus it looked like it would be harder to replace with my limited soldering equipment (40w basic soldering iron).

I replaced all 7 Transistors Q201, 601, 602, 706, 707, 708, 709 that were included in the kit.

I replaced Diodes D601, 602.

I replaced Resistor R5.

I replaced Capacitors C229, 235, 236, 238.
Something that seemed a little odd to me was the Capacitors included in the shopjimmy kit were all smaller in diameter then the ones on my psu board Also one of the caps in the kit was of a different value then the one on my board.
The one on my board was 2200uF 250v and the one in the kit was 1000uF 250v..will this hurt anything or cause the problems I am still having? (see problems at bottom of post)

And installed Fuse F1..a slow blow 8a 250v.

On the back side of the board were 2 bad surface mount diodes, and 2 bad surface mount zener diodes. These where included in the shopjimmy kit and listed under part 2 of the kit (no backlights).
These where the hardest parts to replace because of their small (tiny) size and my limited equipment/abilities.

The TV now works, but has a few problems.
There is a buzzing coming from the PSU board and there are some dark spots on the top of the screen (see picture).
Do you think these problems are caused by issues from the panel itself or I possibly could have other parts that are bad on my PSU or other boards?

thanks

[CapLeaker]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

Dark spots like that is from the panel itself or something putting pressure on the panel. Buzzing from the PSU could be a bunch of stuff so not much help there. Maybe you should figure out what transformer is buzzing first. Replaceing original 2200uF 250V caps with 1000uF is not that good of an idea. At least for me it wouldn't be a permanent fix. I would do it in a pinch, but that's it.

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

thanks for the info CapLeaker.

those dark spots aren't noticeable when watching a movie so I think I can live with them.

The buzzing sounds like it is coming from T701 at the upper part of the board. T702 and T703 are also in that area so it could be one of them.
How do I check to make sure? If it's by touching them what method would be the safest?
In post#2 pic 4 I noticed there is a blue rectangle shaped thing at location C700 (some kind of cap?) next to T701 that looks like it has some kind of black stuff on it.
If that cap is bad could that cause the transformer to buzz?

With caps I have always heard you could go up some on the voltage, but should always try to match the uF. That's why it seemed odd to me shopjimmy would have the wrong value cap in the kit.
I think I'll contact them to see what they say.

thanks

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

after looking at my original caps (1x 1000uF 50v and 3x 2200uF 25v) I noticed 2 of the caps in the shop jimmy kit were of the wrong values.
The shopjimmy kit came with 1x 2200uF 25v and 3x 1000uF 50v.

I called shopjimmy and they said they needed the locations on the board with the values of the original caps before they could do anything.
This is a problem because I don't know which caps were where...I made a newb mistake and just blindly removed the caps and installed the ones from the kit per the locations marked on the bags the caps came in.

Does anyone know what the original cap values are for C229, C235, C236, and C238?

and would having 2 caps of the wrong value in this location be enough to cause the buzzing I hear on the psu board?

thanks

thanks

[Terryfictv]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

Let me help..

C229 = 1000uf/50v
C235 = 2200uf/25v
C236 = 2200uf/25v

C238 = SJ mistake = C235A = 2200uf/25v

Hopefully, you will fix the buzzing !

BTW, can you tell me the value of R5 ?

Thanks

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

Terryfictv, thank you very much for the cap location info.
R5 is 120 ohms and 5% tolerance.

Something that caught my eye when looking at the board today is the film cap located at C700 looks damaged.
Does anyone know where I could find a replacement?
The original is marked Pilkor, 384MKP, 220n J 630v, wk 08 43.
Digikey chat said they didn't have any box shaped ones but did have a axial lead http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...=0&pageSize=25 that might work, but I would need to check the data sheets.

I am in over my head a little when it comes to data sheets..do u think the digikey part would work?

attached is a pic of my possibly bad C700 cap.

thanks

[budm]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

That is special hi-pulse withstanding cap for driving the inverter transformer, it looks like some one melted it with soldering iron but not electrically damaged. When this cap is bad it will lose its capacitance.
BTW, there 5 fuses on that power supply board, are the F201, 202 (small yellow fuses) OK?

I marked what the Voltage of the 12V and the 24V filter caps voltage rating should be.
Pictures provided by shopjimmy.

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

Thanks budm.
I measured F201, 202 on my freebie harbor freight dmm on the 200ohm setting and got .5 ohm for those 2 fuses.

I am still very much a newb when it comes to troubleshooting..Do I plug the board in and test with the TV in standby or fully powered on?
Also do I just test just the caps or everywhere circled?


thanks

[budm]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

So at this point you installed the new caps and the unit is not blowing fuse, right?
If that is the case, then hook up everything back together and take the DCV readings of each pin with its pin names next to the reading of voltage of the connector on the power supply board that goes to the main board sow e can see what are missing.
Take the readings when TV is off and when power switch is activated.

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

I've installed the caps that came in the shopjimmy kit, and the TV works but there is a problem. 2 of the caps are of the wrong value. C235,236 are suppose to be 2200uF 25v, but the caps that came in the kit are 1000uF 50v. I contacted shopjimmy and they are sending me the correct value caps.

The only real issue I am having right now is that the transformer T701 is buzzing when the TV is powered on (no buzz in standby). Do you think having the wrong value caps could be causing the buzzing?
I've ordered some Panasonic caps to replace the other 5 in that area that wasn't included in the shopjimmy kit.

I've got the board out at the moment waiting on my caps to arrive, but I will measure those voltages asap.

thanks

[Terryfictv]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

To be clear, C235,C235A and C236 are 2200uf/25v and C229 is 1000uf/50v
IMHO, I wouldn't replace the other 5 caps unless there is a need.
Once you return the board to factory design, I think your buzz will go away.

[Gorrillasnot]

Re: Phillips 47PFL3603D/F7 No Power

I have no way of testing them, but visually the original 2200uF 25v caps looked ok so I reinstalled 2 of them.
As of now C235 and C236 have the old original 2200uF caps. C235A has a new 2200uF cap and C229 has a new 1000uF cap from the shopjimmy kit.
(I am still waiting on the shipment of 2 2200uF caps from shopjimmy)

I plugged the TV back in and am still getting the same buzzing coming from T701.
Maybe the old caps are weak or I have some other issue?

CN6
3V3_STB 3.3v
STB 3.3V
GRD
GRD
GRD
+12V 12.2V
+12V 12.2V
+12 12.2V
Last Three pins were something to do with audio.

CN7
+12V 12.2
+12V 12.2
BL_on/off didn't measure
Dim didn't measure
Boost didn't measure
ANL/PWM Didnt measure

those were the only 2 connecters on that side of the board that had cables attached. Should I also test the connectors without cables attached?
Also I didn't test the pins for things that I didn't know what they were for out of fear of shorting something out.

Other then the buzzing transformer the TV seems to be working good.
Do you think it's just a bad cap or 2 on the cold side causing the buzz or something else?

thanks