Lg 47lm860v 3d tv- no picture
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Wow...I’ve been nothing but polite and accommodating, yet I encountered rudeness that was unnecessary and really perturbed me. This behaviour is not acceptable and gives the forum a bad image. I hope this is not your normal attitude. As someone new to forums, I’m still figuring things out, and it would have been more constructive to raise concerns respectfully. Communication can be tough, but respect should always be part of the conversation. I get comfort from Karma so I'll sleep soundly tonight...will you!!!Comment
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Hi Diah...If we have tried all avenues then so be it..shame after everyones input. Would it be possible for you to give a little insight into the culprit causing the issue. I need not a detailed explanation but a generalised insight would be an advantage if I come across similar problems and then I feel I have gained further invaluable knowledge.
I thank you and all who have given their time attributing to this thread even if unfortunately we have been unable to bring back to life.
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Hi Diah...If we have tried all avenues then so be it..shame after everyones input. Would it be possible for you to give a little insight into the culprit causing the issue. I need not a detailed explanation but a generalised insight would be an advantage if I come across similar problems and then I feel I have gained further invaluable knowledge.
I thank you and all who have given their time attributing to this thread even if unfortunately we have been unable to bring back to life.
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Any input is appreciated.
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Each connector has contacts on the other side (which are soldered to the board) and there is a numbering of each output, insert the cable and use a multimeter (on the continuity tester) to check each line, that is, one probe on the T-CON connector, the second probe on the connector (on the soldering side) of the buffer bar, and you continuity test each line with a multimeter, moving the probes to each contact (1pin.- 1pin., 2pin.- 2pin., 3pin.- 3pin.,..........) and do the same between the motherboard and T-CON.
Anything you can contribute or direction towards any person in particular...
Hope your doing OK.
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Anything you can contribute or direction towards any person in particular...
Hope your doing OK.
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Seems like the mistake you made in the first post probably damaged it even more, then even the blocking of signals couldn't bring it back, I would probably give up on it. But 13 years is a good run for an led tv.Comment
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I certainly know for definite who the real undeniable culprit is.....yours truly for stupidity with failing to ensure powering down prior to attempts in repairing!!
'A SIMPLE LESSON LEARNT OF WHICH THIS I'M SURE WILL NOT BE REPEATED' ALSO TAKE HEED THOSE WHO LIKE ME ARE JUST BEGINNING THEIR JOURNEY.
Although I'm sure other mistakes will be made, part of the discovery and on to the next project using skills and techniques I have gained.
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Ok, i'm a bit sorry for the rude post, but following certain threads takes so long, too much posts without a single test, i make hard effort to express myself in another language, doing this also when i'm at work, risking accident with the boss..
reading back the posts, you have 11,6v on the tcon input, this sounds a bit low to me, like a stressing dc dc at valley, then the 3 caps at 0,3v, them are also dirty, clean well them and test the whole tv, if 0,3v still there, remove the 3 caps, one of them can be shorted, if you have a good multimeter, NO 5 euro testers, check ohms slowly across all them, if 0ohms try remove first the one with less decimals measure, check again.. probably tcon is at fault..Comment
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