Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
I suppose you can strip off some wire insulation and dress it on the zener diode leads and solder it on the solder side.
Use meter to check for shorts before power up.
And check operation w/o mobo or anything of value just in case....
Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
I've now got the caps and hopefully the correct zener, the pads are loose due to the heat, the red line shows where the pad connects to, what's the best way to mount this diode? I don't think it would be very stable if mounted as it was originally, so I was thinking of mounting it on the bottom of the pcb, there's just enough clearance to do this. The other pad in yellow is easily soldered to the leg next to it for strength (both common)
Originally Posted by Harvey
that's assuming you can guess the value of R29
There's also one other problem of space, the 4700uF 6.3v EEUFM0J472L I got is slightly larger in diameter and is will be hard up against a heatsink.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
I think the zener is a 1n4740, the markings are very faint but look like 4740Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
look for a 1n number on that diode.likely a zener.replace it and the caps.should be ok after that.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
Would be nice if you can get it fixed, but that depends on whether you have the time or not. If it's just for learning experience, this will do.
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And even if you decide no to repair it, you should still keep it. There are plenty of good parts inside that you can use besides the wiring and fans (coils, x and y caps, rectifiers, bridge diode, etc.). Sometimes cheaper power supplies might need one or two of these components to make them complete.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
Thanks for the comments, what's the most likely cause for the failure, the diode has obviously taken a bit of heat?
I can't quite make out the diode markings, the only numbers I can see are 474 I think, you have to look really closely at an angle to make them out.
The cap shopping list is:
10uF 50v x3 teapo
100uF 50v fuhiyuu
22uF 50v x2 fuhiyuu
1000uF 10v x2 fuhiyuu
4700uF 6.3v fuhiyuu
2200uF 10v x2 fuhiyuu
1000uF 16v fuhiyuu
330uF 25v fuhiyuu
330uF 16v fuhiyuu
470uf 16v teapo brown
3300 6.3v teapo greenLeave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
Originally posted by ratdude747odd- why isnt the cap with the teapo stamp right by the diode bulged- wait- teapos will dry up! more proof that antec= over-priced box from hell.
Though that teapo probalby is dried up from the heat, teapos are fine in new power supplies. They seem "at home" in them.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
Originally posted by Harveythat's assuming you can guess the value of R29.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
Yeah if you caught this sooner (before the diode smoked) you probably would have been able to easily save it with caps.
I caught my Antec early and bought 2 more dirt cheap which I saved with a recap.
I just happened to stumble across this forum opened my PSU (which was still working) and the dreaded Fukyuus were bulging.
Oddly enough though on my servers TP 2.0 350W supply even after 4 years in my cold basement not a single one bulged. That could be because the PSU wasn't stressed or the low temperatures kept them from dying. They got replaced anyways.
If you can replace the glass diode and any other charred or fried components that test bad with a DMM and replace the Fukyuu caps it should power up. Squealing is usually a protection circuit kicking in.
If you're a first timer this will be an ambitious project.Last edited by Krankshaft; 07-28-2009, 04:18 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
like i said, gut it for fans and wire.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
Originally posted by SylvesterKinda thought that, but a replacement is expensive here in the uk.
Unless you happen to have a motherboard you don't mind sacrificing in 3 months time when the part you haven't replaced fails....Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
If you like to learn sure it's a good thing to try to fix, but wont be worth it time wise if you are doing it for someone
Try powering it up with the case off, I bet it's the burnt diode that is what is arching, I saw that in my nice Eizo CRT, never bothered to repair it tho, may it RIPLeave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
It's a Channel-Well OEM unit, which may be worth repairing, depending on the value of your time. All the Fuhjyyus have got to go, even if they look normal from outside. Then fix the dry joints by reflowing them with fresh solder. Then you can try debugging the circuit around the zener ZD3, EC6, etc.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
moot point: it looks like ec6 also overheated.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
strip the fan and wire first, keep the board for recapping/soldering practice. or (wearing breathing mask, gloves, long protective clothing, and goggles) desolder everything, and sand it into a frisbee. i somtimes use dead micro atx boards for that. fun.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
That power supply doesn't look like it's worth repairing in my opinion, chuck it in the trash and go buy a new power supply.
The PCB appears to be in bad shape along with damaged components.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
odd- why isnt the cap with the teapo stamp right by the diode bulged- wait- teapos will dry up! more proof that antec= over-priced box from hell.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
just can it. that board is just too burnt up. otherwise id replace the diode and and recap it, would be very reliable after that.Leave a comment:
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Re: Antec AR300 psu, loud squeal, no power
In addition to your domed caps one or both caps next to the burned diode are burned out from the heat. The squealing may be the small cap arcing. The fatal Bestec cap tick as they arc.
If the burned diode still works then you could have something testable in 4 caps. I've seen Bestec with that much discoloration on the board and diode legs and work with good caps. Since you'd rather not burn out your motherboard supply an LCD power supply tester and a ESR meter would be very helpful here. You should at least have a DMM to measure 5vsb before hooking up to a motherboard.Leave a comment:
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