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There is a project on MDL called: "Bypass Windows 7 Extended Security Updates Eligibility" it still works to this day...
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Windows 7 on my main system and work laptop.
It is still possible to install security updates intended for Server 2008 R2 x64 on Win7 x64: it has extended support contract via premium assurance till January 2026
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You could reform them with a high value resistor and diode directly from mains if you don't have a high voltage power supply.
If they take a charge of 325VDC though say a couple 100k resistors I would say they are fine: important thing is that current drops to zero and that they then retain that charge.
Usual caveats apply: mains is quite deadly and unforgiving about making mistakes
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They look fine but there is probably no point in replacing those Fujitsu caps: they are good quality...
And when replacing the UCC KZG caps I would go for a same-same replacement (same capacitance).
Something like this: [url]https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/A750KK827M0JAAE016?qs=M6jHmRuQorWZByPWDmuM8Q%3D%3D[/url]https://They look fine but there is ...user.com/Produ
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The same system is in use since Windows XP: it requires online activation.
AFAIK the activation for XP no longer works, so in time the same will happen here....
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Not at all, this is the stage where the fun begins.
Or put more succinctly by a member of this bard: a working TV? How boring!...
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It depends on the firmware version of the tester too if it is based on the open source transistor tester project.
For example my with latest k-firmware can test ESR of a film cap down to 47nF but a 10nF shows no ESR.
Here from the manual that stj linked:
That said ESR is generally not of interest for a X or Y class film capacitor, only capacitance so it doesn't really matter anyway......
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Have you tried doing a basic test of the unit outside the car?
Connect ground and 12v then some speakers and see how it behaves?
Oh yea, and tried pressing the mute button and playing with the volume?
From the manual: [I]each cable can not be grounded, can not be shared, can not touch the line, otherwise there will be no sound output, output sound distortion, machine fever and so on[/I]
Especially important that the machine can have a fever after a long flight: [I]When you receive the product, please do not take it directly to the car for installation....
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I don't think it is possible to recreate it with enough precision, but it was just made as a cost measure: you could substitute it with a real ceramic fuse, however knowing the intended value would probably require a schematic...
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On the PCB there is the writing F2 so perhaps it is a PCB fuse? If so you probably have a short somewhere else...
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It looks pretty nice, it probably is a LGT8F328 since the markings have been removed, hate that the Chinese muppets do that!
Just now when writing this post I found your other thread on eevblog so I'll stop here and link that instead:
[url]https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/t7-tester-410146/[/url]https://It looks pretty nice, it pro....com/forum/tes...
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[I]"If you look at one of the photos, you can see that between the two oxide varistors, there is a transformer that stepsdown the input AC voltage."[/I]
That is an inductor, it is just for common mode interference reduction, it does not change the AC voltage.
Do you really have 230VAC before that component and then 26VAC after it?[I]"If you look at one of the photos, you can see that between the two oxide varistors, there is a transformer that stepsdown the input AC voltage."[/I]
That is an inductor, it is just for common mode interference reduction, it does
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The origins is = Chinese see nice open source design, Chinese copy design and release without source (because they are assholes)
The original is made by Markus Frejek, then continued by Karl-Heinz Kübbeler to this day: [URL]https://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR_Transistortester[/URL]
There is also a fork done by another Markus (madires) and his version was linked by stj above, both of these two later designs are current with some different design goals, both are completely open source.
Here is a current version with a confirmed genuine Atmel processor.
If...Last edited by Per Hansson; 01-05-2024, 04:10 AM.
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Ok, I agree with stj here, the SMD resistors he mentioned look like they could be damaged.
If you want to use the thing for learning you can measure the AC voltage on the bridge rectifier, up to that point everything should be ok.
Then after the bridge rectifier you should see DC voltage, with 115VAC on the incoming side it should be √2 x 115 = 162VDC...
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FR1 has a hole in it: that is a bigger problem.
RV1 and RV2 are probably varistors, they will clamp when the voltage is too high, board will work fine without them for testing (if there are no more voltage surges).
You can replace FR1 with a small incandescent light bulb, 25 to 60W should be enough: if it is on fully bright it means the fuse (FR1) did it's job and the fault remains.
If neither the incandescent bulb nor LED switch on then you have an open circuit, possibly there is a hole in capacitor C3, hard to tell.
I would be spending my time with the insurance company...
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