The same system is in use since Windows XP: it requires online activation.
AFAIK the activation for XP no longer works, so in time the same will happen here....
Thank you to the guys at HEGE supporting Badcaps [ HEGE ] [ HEGE DEX Chart ]
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Not at all, this is the stage where the fun begins.
Or put more succinctly by a member of this bard: a working TV? How boring!...
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It depends on the firmware version of the tester too if it is based on the open source transistor tester project.
For example my with latest k-firmware can test ESR of a film cap down to 47nF but a 10nF shows no ESR.
Here from the manual that stj linked:
That said ESR is generally not of interest for a X or Y class film capacitor, only capacitance so it doesn't really matter anyway......
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Have you tried doing a basic test of the unit outside the car?
Connect ground and 12v then some speakers and see how it behaves?
Oh yea, and tried pressing the mute button and playing with the volume?
From the manual: [I]each cable can not be grounded, can not be shared, can not touch the line, otherwise there will be no sound output, output sound distortion, machine fever and so on[/I]
Especially important that the machine can have a fever after a long flight: [I]When you receive the product, please do not take it directly to the car for installation....
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I don't think it is possible to recreate it with enough precision, but it was just made as a cost measure: you could substitute it with a real ceramic fuse, however knowing the intended value would probably require a schematic...
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On the PCB there is the writing F2 so perhaps it is a PCB fuse? If so you probably have a short somewhere else...
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It looks pretty nice, it probably is a LGT8F328 since the markings have been removed, hate that the Chinese muppets do that!
Just now when writing this post I found your other thread on eevblog so I'll stop here and link that instead:
[url]https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/t7-tester-410146/[/url]https://It looks pretty nice, it pro....com/forum/tes...
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[I]"If you look at one of the photos, you can see that between the two oxide varistors, there is a transformer that stepsdown the input AC voltage."[/I]
That is an inductor, it is just for common mode interference reduction, it does not change the AC voltage.
Do you really have 230VAC before that component and then 26VAC after it?[I]"If you look at one of the photos, you can see that between the two oxide varistors, there is a transformer that stepsdown the input AC voltage."[/I]
That is an inductor, it is just for common mode interference reduction, it does
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The origins is = Chinese see nice open source design, Chinese copy design and release without source (because they are assholes)
The original is made by Markus Frejek, then continued by Karl-Heinz Kübbeler to this day: [URL]https://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR_Transistortester[/URL]
There is also a fork done by another Markus (madires) and his version was linked by stj above, both of these two later designs are current with some different design goals, both are completely open source.
Here is a current version with a confirmed genuine Atmel processor.
If...Last edited by Per Hansson; 01-05-2024, 04:10 AM.
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Ok, I agree with stj here, the SMD resistors he mentioned look like they could be damaged.
If you want to use the thing for learning you can measure the AC voltage on the bridge rectifier, up to that point everything should be ok.
Then after the bridge rectifier you should see DC voltage, with 115VAC on the incoming side it should be √2 x 115 = 162VDC...
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FR1 has a hole in it: that is a bigger problem.
RV1 and RV2 are probably varistors, they will clamp when the voltage is too high, board will work fine without them for testing (if there are no more voltage surges).
You can replace FR1 with a small incandescent light bulb, 25 to 60W should be enough: if it is on fully bright it means the fuse (FR1) did it's job and the fault remains.
If neither the incandescent bulb nor LED switch on then you have an open circuit, possibly there is a hole in capacitor C3, hard to tell.
I would be spending my time with the insurance company...
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The file you uploaded to the forum is not the same as on Lenovo's website.
Here is the file on Lenovo's website: [url]https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/17572f8fc2a327edee063823459b249eedd565525fae486507b5819988b871d9[/url]
Here is the file you uploaded, detected by 51 different antivirus engines as being a virus: [url]https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/cf74689c26ad4bd9a408965ea0bd3a04ecf0461831d96bd8eb5c97f19e011d87?nocache=1[/url]https://The file you uploaded to the...88b871d9[/url]...
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You are correct, I'm leaving the post up for now so others that have downloaded it can see.
Here is a virustotal URL for a scan of the file:
[url]https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/cf74689c26ad4bd9a408965ea0bd3a04ecf0461831d96bd8eb5c97f19e011d87?nocache=1[/url]https://You are correct, I'm leaving...ocache=1[/url]...
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Repair of Sign WiFi Smart Plug PCB: SA-P302A v1.2 due to bad caps - with schematic
I have repaired a Sign WiFi Smart Plug with model number: SNSM-WASINGLE sold by Spares Nordic AB in Sweden.
The fault condition was that the device gave no signs of life: pressing the push button did not cycle the internal relay and the blue LED did not come on and it was not seen on the WiFi network.
The fault was very simple, capacitor C3 on the PCB with writing "KSJ" and "LOWESR" had literally blown its top off, after replacing it the device works fine again!
As I find linear high voltage regulator designs interesting I drew up the attached schematic...
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Re: Help with writing to 93C46
Are you sure the bitsize is correct? (8-bit vs 16-bit, also known as wordsize)
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