PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

[Johndill]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Looks like resistors R99, R98, and diode D63 at the very least.
R99 should read 10 KOhms or less in circuit (or not more than 5% over 10k).
R98 looks like a 51 Ohm resistor. Again, it should read 51 Ohms or less.
D63 may or may not show a diode reading both ways, depending on what's in parallel with it. But it looks like there isn't anything, so if you get a good diode reading one way and nothing (infinite/open) the other way, then it's probably fine.

R99 reads 9.86k ohms
R98 reads 51.0 ohms
D63 shows 0.024V in circuit with the leads on either way

I have a broken ADP-240CR PSU that looks like it has a good 24N60M2 in it for a replacement, it has around 0.9 ohms between the left and centre pin and left and right pins, the centre and right pin have 0.2 ohms, is that ok?

Edit: with the possible replacement 24N60M2 out of circuit, the readings are lower, from what was said in post #16, that is good?

[budm]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

"D63 shows 0.024V in circuit with the leads on either way"
What is the resistance reading of D63? 50 Ohms or so?

[Johndill]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

"D63 shows 0.024V in circuit with the leads on either way"
What is the resistance reading of D63? 50 Ohms or so?

Yes, D63 is 51.0 ohms

[budm]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

That is what I expected, the Gate discharge D63 is connected in parallel with R98 (51 Ohms), it is typical set up for Gate discharge circuit.

[Johndill]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Do I put on the other MOSFET I have and test with the light bulb again?

[Johndill]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Replaced MOSFET and did the light bulb thing and the bulb lights up as before, did I connect the bulb correctly before or do I still have a short?

R99 reads 1.1 ohms with this other MOSFET in circuit.

[budm]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

At this point it can be that the SMPS IC that drives the MOSFET has the output stuck high all the time instead of switching on and off.
Can you read the P/N of the SMPS IC?

[Johndill]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

At this point it can be that the SMPS IC that drives the MOSFET has the output stuck high all the time instead of switching on and off.
Can you read the P/N of the SMPS IC?

Is that component IC31?

[budm]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Is that component IC31?

IC41, as you can see, the Gate pin of the MOSFET is routed to that IC via resistors and diode D63, R98.

[Johndill]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

IC41, as you can see, the Gate pin of the MOSFET is routed to that IC via resistors and diode D63, R98.

How do I test it?

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Do not worry about testing if you suspect that this part might be the problem I would highly recommend replacing it unless it is hard to find but I would looking for one

[Johndill]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Do not worry about testing if you suspect that this part might be the problem I would highly recommend replacing it unless it is hard to find but I would looking for one

How do you suspect IC41 would be a problem?

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

From what I have read on the forum that seems to be the problem when the mosfet is taken out and if this is the case most of the time this is why I made the comment that I did and If I was doing this repair myself I would replace it

I have repaired a few servo drive where switching power board would not power ON most of time it has been those types of IC chip has been the problem most of time

These were hit with a lightning strike near the house————>

You can read about this repair at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=65482

I just repaired a 3 volt @ 5 amp switching power supply I had two of them

( I have a total of 3 of them )

that are the exact same model one of them the main fuse was blown on the board the other one was turning on and off repeatedly

So I took the switching power regulator IC chip and move it to one that had not blown the fuse
Well that did not turn out so well that IC chip blew out sparks out the bottom of the chip where the pins are it did blow the main fuse on the board but it did trip the electronic fuse controller that I have ( I call this the controller the spark and smoke tester ) I have had few of them do that in the past


I replace the switching power supply regulator IC chip now the power supply has been working for the last three weeks non stop so when I have come to the conclusion that the switching power supply regulator IC chip could be the problem I just replace it and be done with it


Here is where you can fine one

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...Dc8bBrvA%3D%3D also has the data sheet

They do not cost much I would order a few of them just in case you put to much heat to one of them when installing it

[budm]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Check the resistance between the Pin 8 (GATE) and Pin 7 VCC just to see what you get, make sure to count the pins correctly.

[Johndill]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Check the resistance between the Pin 8 (GATE) and Pin 7 VCC just to see what you get, make sure to count the pins correctly.

Pin 7 and 8 read 8.70k ohms

[momaka]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Looking more closely at the pics you provided, it appears that MOSFET Q6 (the 24N60M2) is for the PSU's APFC circuit, along with diode D11 next to it.

Try this: remove Q6 completely and apply power to the PSU through the incandescent light bulb. Does the bulb still stay lit all the time, or does it go bright for a second and then go off/very dim? If it stays bright, you probably have a short-circuit somewhere else on the primary side (i.e. not the APFC circuit). If not, then see if you get any voltage from the PSU's 4.8V standby rail. I believe you can find that on the white connector on the output side of the PSU. If not, it appears that C123 and the coil/inductor next to it should be connected to the 4.8V standby rail as well.

Another thing to keep in mind: APFC PSUs don't always like the incandescent bulb trick and may make it stay lit or flicker very quickly for 10-20 seconds. For this reason, I always test APFC PSUs with at least two or three 100 Watt incandescent bulbs all in parallel. This allows more current to pass through them to the PSU and keep the APFC happy while still providing good protection from over-current and over-power. So try that and see if the 2-3 incandescent bulbs stay lit or go off with Q6 back in the circuit. If the bulbs do stay lit for more than 10 seconds, IC41 may indeed be bad, and/or more of the components surrounding it.

[budm]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Pin 7 and 8 read 8.70k ohms

That seems low to me and probably enough to bias on the MOSFET.
You can check the Voltage between GND pin and Gate to see if you see steady DC of >2~3V or not, use the lamp in place still in this test.
Or you can also GND the Gate of the MOSFET with 100 Ohms resistor and see if the lamp will not light up.
But then again, how much is that IC comparing to taking a chance of blowing up new MOSFET due to bad IC?

[Johndill]

Re: PlayStation 4 ADP-200ER PSU repair

Sorry, I've become too busy currently and will have to put this project on hold, hopefully I can continue soon :-)

[mindfx]

ok , if mosfets have short`s , no matter between which pins it`s bad. , so put new ones. always check resistor , whick provides HV power to theese mosfets . this resistor should be around 1 ohm. then if them blown again , then replace power control IC , and of cource mosfets and HV power supply resistor again. Also ensure , that there is no short on output before.