VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

[Per Hansson]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

After my experience with the broken arcticcooling fan I have come to realize that it is probably a very very good fan

Cheramic is just such a though material that it will practically never wear out, so I'd say yes to them. But if you are going to use them be sure to handle them very carefully. I.e. do not drop them and do not accidentally push them on the fan blades because then the cheramic bearing could get cracked, just like on mine...

Plus the very thick fanblades on the arcticcooling fans (40mm) makes them extremley quiet yet they push allot of air, without making the usual noise of a 25mm fan...

[willawake]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.



looks nice

i am checking now and there is none with led. i need to know which have decent endurance for the kids computers. there is akasa, xilence, cooler master with leds.

actually i am repairing one now. full marks for zero adware, actually is this computer even used? where is the porn and manga.......minus one for uninstalling the graphics card which is why we have the critical it doesnt play games issue....minus 100 for installing the new nec 4551 without data cable which is why the lengthy support call was not successful.

nice business anyway.....and looks like this one might need a recapping maybe sometime in the future. it has a row of purple ost around the cpu. still didnt figure out what board it is. maybe a chaintech?

anyway back to ceramic bearings. i remember those from my skateboarding days. shit its got me thinking i might go buy a board. can i still do that at 31?

[Galvanized]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

wahey it turned into fan chat again

what is the opinion about the following fans ; xilence, noiseblocker, arcticcooling , akasa

any good or just eXtreme bullshit?

Well, there is only so much that can be said about a Deer burning up

The Arctics are great fans, with no frame they can only be used to drive air, not suck air. Without a frame the spillage of air off the blades would be real, on a tightly finned and/or really dirty heat sink. Folks that use Arctic would not run filthey systems or so one would think. Ceramic bearings in both sleeve and ball bearing are the next big deal.

Inspite of being clear plastic the Akasa fans rate very high. They are OEMed by YS Tech. Generally clear plastic resonates more. I can find a British review or it can be found in a SPCR search. Those guys really pic the fan's nits. They have a fan forum but it's just a bit over the top for me.

NeXus are the smoother running Yate Loons that have a resistor added along with more $$$. The fans are run at the factory and supposedly the better ones become NeXus.

SilenX are to be avoided. They are not that good, I forgot who builds them, meh. The fella that brought out this line of fans was multi-registering himself at silence oriented forums and promoting his products, going as far as answering his own posts. It did little to endear him in that community. SPCR has an older thread dedicated to this topic. He has been banned in just about all silent comp forums


The first two you listed Will, I know little of.

Using quality ball bearing fans speced at <3k rpm @ 12V at 5~9V seems to work very well for me. I just bought some NIDEC 92x25, w/tach feed, 48cfm and will use them in a box running them at 8V. Works when the fans are cheap. Once BB fans are speced for >3.5k bearing fit is loosened up because it is a high speed BB and by it's nature, has to run loose.
Cheap BB fans will spec loose fit bearings to make up for poor manufacturing tolerance.

Ever notice the circle of small holes around a Sanyo Denki's hub? Those holes are used to bond balancing weights inplace. I think that's kinda neat.

One spec that's often over looked is mm of h2o pulled. This is where undervolted 38mm fans really shine as they can suck air through grill work and blow it around HDD cages.

I did PM tiresias about my last fan buy and don't know how it will play out as the case buy is aways off. How does 146cfm@35dBA sound? It will start/run in silence at 7V driving about 100cfm The fitting of a 172mm SD will requior some removal of material.

[Galvanized]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

I'm not into LED fans but the CoolerMaster LEDs seem to have the least complaints about noise and/or service life of all the twinkly fans I've read about.

The Arctic you linked is supposed to be upper tier. The Scythe X-Flex cost near twice what that linked Arctic does. I'd like to know how Scythe figured a 150k hour service life for the X-Flex fans. They cost $16 on this side of The Pond.

[Shroomie]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

Yep. Looks just like a 200w "Austin", rebadged L&C/Deer AT supply I have, except that mine (all Viva caps, circa 1998) still works. Wouldn't shock me if this was just the ATX version.

But man, that's something. Surprised it still (sort of) worked after that!

[Fullmetal Chocobo]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

I have some experience in fans, albeit not as thorough as Galvanized. I've sued CoolerMaster blue LED fans, UV 92mm case fans, Blackfire4 UV LED fans, Panaflo L1A 80mm fans, Sanyo Denki (various sizes and types), Sunon 92mm 2-pin fans, Delta Triple Blade (various sizes) and various others.

With LED fans, the best luck I've had was with the Coolermaster blue LED fans. The 80mm and 120mm fans servered me well, but the 120mm version just didn't move as much air as I needed. I never had a CM fan fail on me though. Then comes the Blackfire4 fans, of which I had some not work in the first place, and two fail during operation. I recently had two 92mm blue UV fans fail on me, and that is when I decided to quit with the UV stuff. I now have two Sanyo Denki 120x38mm fans as exhaust, and 8 92x25mm fans (a mix of SD mini Ace and Nidec fans -- I prefer the SD fans, but they are so much more expensive. They are a tad bit quieter, but that doesn't really matter in this application). I also currently use two DTB high flow fans for the processors in my machine.

At this point, I couldn't recommend a UV fan, and LED recommendations would be for CM fans only. I've moved all UV & other LED fans to the crack rack (me and my wife crunch for Team Anandtech), and I try to use Sanyo Denki or DTB fans on my main rigs.

[yanz]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

I'll let the pictures do the talking here...


On the output side, the smaller caps are Jun Fu and the larger are CapXon. All the caps on the output side are domed, and some of them are burnt (though this could be from nearby component failure).

i think i found a similar one to dood's PSu. It is a 250W version.

without load: +5v = 4.5v, +12v = 9.6v
load 8A on +5v: +5v = 5.0v, +12v = 11.9v

it's been recapped just for fun. but the two big resistor on secondary side still are boilling hot. i wonder if it is normal.

[Rainbow]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

The big resistors are probably dummy load so it will not blow up when powered on without some real load.

[yanz]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

i see.. so, removing them is safe, isn't it? as long as its powered with real load.. those resistors cooks the pcb and the caps near them, even after i replace the original JEE & CapXon caps with chemy LXZ.

talk about resistor, have you ever seen big resistor like this in the psu?



im not sure if its deer (L&C) or not, but Simbadda is known for using L&C design oftenly on their PSU (including brand like "SimCool", "AIBO", etc).

[gonzo0815]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

All Enermax psu i`v seen had such an power resistor , but i don`t know if on the primary or secondary. They are located betwenn the two heatsinks near the main transformer.

[Chris1992]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

Galvanized: SilenX are made by Adda. Were, at least...

[PeteS in CA]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

yanz, the pic is a biy unclear, but that looks like a radial lead, bathtub-style wirewound resistor, 10W or 20W. A nice style, as it saves space, get the body of the resistor up into the airflow, and usually has a stand-off molded into the bathtub-style case, so the PCB doesn't get toasted. That such a large pre-load resistor is necessary doesn't say good things about the P/S design, though, and the efficiency will be affected.

[yanz]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

sorry for the dark picture. that resisor, to my surprise, only 0.3 ohm probed with my multimeter after i desoldered it. i wonder if it is really a resistor.

i would like to change those dummy load resistor in the psu with the 5w or 10w type. or i will try to remove them (i'll be very carefull to remove only those on pi filter, typically 33 - 100 ohm 2W).

btw, another fried PSU:

[Rainbow]

Re: VPower VT-300ATX (DEER)... I don't think a recap will revive this one.

I have two fried PSUs like that - one marked as MEICO, one as FRONTIER. These are the even worse than DEER. The symptom is always the same - exploded cap.