FX553VE-DM318T(FX553v) not POSTING

[m1ch43lzm]

https://www.onetransistor.eu/2018/11...n-windows.html
Press the read ID button, it's the one with question mark, it should detect the chip
If the chip is not detected properly, check the connection on the clip, make sure it's aligned properly
After it gets properly detected click the read button
You should get something else on the hex view, not just full of FF FF...,

I gotta sleep, it's 2a.m here

[claws77]

here is the bios dumps, you are right, it was a connection issue.

sure good night! thanks

model: FX553VE-DM318T(FX553v) -- 7265NGW
board: GL553VE
serial: H8N0CV04T36032G
status: trying to enter bios sometimes freezes my boot, sometimes work, cannot delete secureboot variables, cannot update bios, used to get MOKlist errors, trying to boot with usb always freezes my computer except if no windows drive is present. If i do not try to enter bios, the pc works fine, boots into windows without any issue,


https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...-gl553vd/page4

[Sephir0th]

Someone thought about to replace the SPI flash IC or to check general board health at chip-level?

I mean a partial short circuit somewhere could cause the behaviour too. I'd especially inspect the 5V rails and the chipset related power rails for something off.

[claws77]

Someone thought about to replace the SPI flash IC or to check general board health at chip-level?

I mean a partial short circuit somewhere could cause the behaviour too. I'd especially inspect the 5V rails and the chipset related power rails for something off.

how would i go about that?, mind you i am just starting to learn laptop repair.
i could not find schematic or boardviews for my board, how to find 5v lines.?
it may be significant to point out that i never had usb port problems. sometimes i did find out that my cables were faulty.

i think( correct me if i am wrong) we should focus on flashing bios.
if this doesnot work then i'll check for partial shorts. cuz i do not even know where to begin.

thank you for replying..
could you please check my biosdump- if the read was ok!

[Sephir0th]

Let's call it like it is: To read or write the BIOS with the alligator clip is BAD PRACTICE when you are not aware of the disadvantages.

Best practice is to read and write the IC soldered on a discrete programming board which you can install on the CH341A.

However, there are options to minimise the risk of data corruption while reading or writing the flash IC when you are not willing to go the safe route or when you have a Plan B in the backhand (for the experienced technicians).

With Software like FlexHex you can compare two dumps.

a) reading a dump and check for data integrity - Here you want to take two or three dumps from the flash IC and compare these. If they are different, you have read corrupted files and you need to check the connection (and health of the power rail connected to Pin 8 of the flash IC). To be in almost full fail-save conditions you need to completely disconnect and re-connect to the flash IC after each read attempt. You have to read dumps from the flash IC until you get at least 2 (better 3) dumps which are identical.

b) writing a dump and check for data integrity - after writing the dump, you read out the dump again and compare it with the source file you have written. If the dumps are NOT identical, you have probably written or read a corrupted dump. You have to repeat this until FlexHex (or similar software) tells you that the source file is identical with the file you have read out again.

with these simple but important steps you can work with the CH341A in combination with the alligator clip. I don't say that this is 100% safe, but the risk should be minized down to less than 1%.


However what I was suggesting instead is to replace the Flash IC, the BIOS chip, hehe.

The work at chip-level can be still started afterwards.

[claws77]

a) reading a dump and check for data integrity - Here you want to take two or three dumps from the flash IC and compare these. If they are different, you have read corrupted files and you need to check the connection (and health of the power rail connected to Pin 8 of the flash IC). To be in almost full fail-save conditions you need to completely disconnect and re-connect to the flash IC after each read attempt. You have to read dumps from the flash IC until you get at least 2 (better 3) dumps which are identical.

done, done, done

i am using "fc /b" cmd utility.
there are 3 bios dump in my bios.zip. they are identical. they are also non empty
i compared my bios dump with the manufacturer's one using fc /b found several differences

one youtube video taught me that manufacturer provides bios in a capsule and we have to extract it using uefi tool.
i did that.
i also tried to read with uefi tool, my bios dump, it seems readable and similar to manufacturer's bios. but only in the bios section, so i cannot know for sure

is my manufacturer bios ready for flashing? or do i need to edit it? --- maybe add serial no and model no etc but i do not know where

img names flasbios.in is manufacturer bios from site after extraction, rest two are my bios dumps

b) writing a dump and check for data integrity - after writing the dump, you read out the dump again and compare it with the source file you have written. If the dumps are NOT identical, you have probably written or read a corrupted dump. You have to repeat this until FlexHex (or similar software) tells you that the source file is identical with the file you have read out again

does not apply yet.

However what I was suggesting instead is to replace the Flash IC, the BIOS chip, hehe.

thank you fpr not suggesting to replace the motherboard or laptop, double hehe

[m1ch43lzm]

Sephir0th I checked BIOS dumps with UEFItool, at least the BIOS code section looks OK compared to the one from ASUS website (excluding ME region and flash descriptor, not present on BIOS from ASUS web), differences are in NVRAM variables, noticed also some extra UEFI certs by Canonical on the dump ( claws77 installed Linux before)

Canonical Ltd. Master Certificate Authority
...
http://www.canonical.com/secure-boot-master-ca.crl

From the previous posts laptop boots Windows from internal drive but nothing else from external devices, BIOS setup cannot be entered/hangs, so I thought it was corrupted BIOS, or corrupt NVRAM area

Unless the BIOS flash IC is stuck on "read only" for some reason.... Only one way to find out besides just replacing it (that is, erasing it and doing a blank check it should be FF FF...)

Now that we have a backup we could test with erasing the chip and writing a new BIOS to it, or writing that backup to a new chip

is my manufacturer bios ready for flashing? or do i need to edit it? --- maybe add serial no and model no etc but i do not know where

Not yet, the BIOS from ASUS website is missing the flash descriptor and ME region, it only contains UEFI capsule
Waiting for someone on the bios requests section to "fix" it or to make a clean BIOS with your serial/windows key
The bios from here, post #10 should boot, it's the same version you have

• GL553VE-F1.308.zip

but with missing serial/windows key


----------------
Boardview (should be 99% similar if not the same)
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...-2-0-boardview
Schematics https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...ematics-please

[claws77]

yay, BIOS is ready.
one question though
should i remove every peripheral like hdd , keyboard, track pad and cmos, battery, lcd, dvd writer (ik RAM is non negotiable) before flashing.

[claws77]

https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3658240

this bios works with lcd and battery, keyboard, keyboard light and hdd and nvme and speaker and daughter board
can access bios too

this bios does not work when trackpad is connected.
serial no, model no both are wrong.
same issues booting from usb still persists.


could not boot into windows even with trackpad disconnected.
boot device not found.

reflashed my old bios - boots into windows but cannot access bios


Sephir0th may be right, will check this now

[Sephir0th]

The note about the Trackpad. What is that? Might be important.

A bad Touchpad can indeed cause the behaviour you're challenging right now

[claws77]

After flashing the bios "https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3658240" i tried to do my first boot. ik, it takes time so i waited 30 mins
it got stuck at asus logo.
so i went back and shorted my cmos battery pins.
removed everything except keyboard, keyboard backlight, lcd, ac adapter.

the bios lit up. in 15 secs
so i went back AGAIN and inserted each cable one by one.
i narrowed it down to my trackpad.

so without only my trackpad connected
i booted into windows only to get boot device failure. -- i suspect this is because of the secureboot variables (idk for sure)
since i do want a clean install, boot device failure means nothing

i tried to boot up my live puppy llinux usb -- again stuck at asus logo, cannot enter bios as well.

so i thought maybe its the 5v rail. cuz trackpad uses 5v and usb too. the trackpad is still unattached.
tried some combinations-- removing one or cables

atlast i flashed my backed up bios
connected my trackpad too -- everything boots up to windows like there was nothing wrong ever
my usb also gets detected in windows, trackpad works fine too
but i still cannot enter into bios with or without trackpad also with and without usb

i am stumped - either i can have perfect bios with no windows and no trackpad
or i can have windows with trackpad but cannot enter bios

both get stuck as soon as i stick a usb

[m1ch43lzm]

Try the BIOS posted by SMDFlea https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...e5#post3658543

Database error on the bios request forum for now

[m1ch43lzm]

I found my old CH341A and a compatible flash chip (same size, different model/brand) from a dead board to test
On AsProgrammer, after you press Read ID, follow the steps in this order:
1. Erase the chip (button with X)
2. Write the new BIOS posted by SMDFlea (link is working now)
3. Press the Verify button (the one with the = symbol)

[claws77]

Thank you!! Sephir0th m1ch43lzm It worked With conditions.

So as mentioned i needed to shift data between drives and install fresh windows on ssd.

After flashing the bios, the bios worked ok, i was able to boot into my live usb by selecting from boot menu.
After booting,
i just format my old windows partition.
Shift data around. Etc. (Now without the live usb i donot have any bootable drive, in my pc)

Since then, i was unable to acess the boot menu again.😥
I was still able to boot into windows installer usb because it was the only boot option.

Now i cannot get into bios or boot menu, again. 😥

i got lucky.

I would like to explore and solve this issue.

[m1ch43lzm]

So the windows installer USB works now? And your Linux boot USB broke the BIOS again? Weird things happen... May be a BIOS bug that never got fixed by ASUS

Can be also related to this other bug, on a different ASUS laptop: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...iable-bios-fix

At least your laptop works 😁, and you have a way to recover it with the BIOS from SMDflea, next time try disabling Secure Boot in BIOS before booting anything from USB

[claws77]

I donot think the linux usb broke my bios.
windows installer USB(or any other usb) worked once(won't work again) only because it was the olny boot option available for my bios to boot into, now it won't as i have installed windows.

Since i cannot access bios, the the bios will keep using the default i.e. my windows on ssd.

Yes secure boot is/was disabled for sure.

Yeah, you guys are a laptop saver.

[claws77]

i messed up, i reflashed the bios given by SMDFlea after reinstalling (fresh) windows, now its stuck at Asus logo, cannot go into windows or bios, 🤣🤣
i looked it up - google response boot order issues, but i cannot do anything

[m1ch43lzm]

Now I'm beginning to think it's a hardware issue, with the 3.3v supply to the BIOS chip, the 5v supply, or a faulty flash chip, and the BIOS corruption/not going into BIOS setup is a side effect of that
As you said on the bios request thread it boots now into Windows but can't enter setup/change boot order anymore

You'll need a multimeter with sharp probes
Measure resistance across both R2802 and R2804, should be 0 ohms (same as touching the probes together), the schematics and board view linked above in post #27 will help to locate those parts

Also measure the voltage on pin 8 on the BIOS chip, should be 3.3v