I think you should get some reading at the USBN4/P4 and USBN1/P1 pins on the motherboard connector CON5103, and the diode readings should measure similar to each other
I'm afraid you have a partially damaged CPU, best case cracked solder balls if the laptop was damaged by dropping it
Or bad traces near CON5103 if it's confirmed that the laptop was dropped, as the 5V according to schematics doesn't go near those data lines, it's on the opposite end of the connector
For WiFi to be detected you need
PCIE6_WLAN_RXP
PCIE6_WLAN_RXN
PCIE6_WLAN_TXP (before...
m1ch43lzm
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Last Activity: Today, 07:58 AM
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I mean at CON5103 on the motherboard, as the previous measurements make no sense compared to this
Unplug the cable, and check on the motherboard
As those signals go straight to the CPU
Also check C5133 and C5134 if not damaged, those go to the PCIE TX signals to the wifi card...Leave a comment:
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Schematics and boardview here [url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-laptops-tablets-and-mobile-devices/schematic-requests-only/89627-dell-vostro-13-5370-pegatron-armani-13-schematic-and-boardview[/url]
Relevant part of the schematics
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"thumb","data-attachmentid":3655531}[/ATTACH]
On the first 10 pins of the connector
USBP4 USBN4 go to one of the USB ports on the I/O board, USBP1 USBN1 go to the other USB...Leave a comment:
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Sn62Pb36Ag2 should be fine as the melting point is 179 C (354 F), if what you already have is thin gauge (0.015") like the pictures it's OK to use
EDIT: Just noticed you wrote 0.022", it may work too, thinner gauge is easier for small components
Sn63Pb37 is more common, with a melting point of 183 C (361 F)
Those two types solidify quick, Sn60Pb40 stays molten for a while
The lead free stuff starts at 217 C (423 F) upwards, so it's good practice to replace with Sn63Pb37 (or Sn62Pb36Ag2 if you have it) when doing repairs, as manufacturers have to adhere...Last edited by m1ch43lzm; 06-08-2025, 08:08 AM.Leave a comment:
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Hi, I'm uploading here what i found so far
Schematics+ board pdf for GA401IH (first page also says GA401IV GA401IU )
Board view .FZ for GA401II
The .pdf on post #3 "disappeared"...Leave a comment:
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If you don't have already, consider ordering some 27AWG 63/37 solder wire
It's easier to work with 63/37 lead/tin solder compared to lead freeLeave a comment:
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Alternate point for BL_ON is on the back side of the board, get the schematics and board view if you haven't already
R4618, it's either a 0 ohm resistor or a trace, according to schematics it should be "high"
Or at DG13, it could be missing but the pads are there, if it's bypassed by R4618, sometimes the engineers place parts on the schematics that are not used in the final production version......Leave a comment:
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Do you still have the working E15 gen2? To check if the LCD self test procedure works thereLeave a comment:
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Voltages look fine, the panel is getting power
Try doing an LCD self test according to the e15 gen2 hardware maintenance manual...Leave a comment:
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Measure with laptop powered on, lid open, keyboard facing down on the table to make it easier for you
You should also get the enable signal (3.3v) at pin 4 to enable UG1, and the output should be 3.3v
[URL=filedata/fetch?id=3653519&d=1749214672][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tug1.jpg Views:\t0 Size:\t12.9 KB ID:\t3653519","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"3653519","data-size":"medium"}[/ATTACH][/URL]...Last edited by m1ch43lzm; 06-06-2025, 07:07 AM.Leave a comment:
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The modification should be, according to your pictures
1. Remove RI13
2. Install a 10k resistor at RI20, you can take it from the dead board
You can use a soldering iron to remove RI13, otherwise you risk damaging the plastic connector below with hot air
As i said, You got a board for the 14" model (330s-[B]14[/B]IKB) as they look identical on the outsideThe modification should be, according to your pictures
1. Remove RI13
2. Install a 10k resistor at RI20, you can take it from the dead board
You can use a soldering iron to removeLast edited by m1ch43lzm; 06-06-2025, 06:40 AM.Leave a comment:
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Hi, I'm not an expert on TVs, but I think it may be faulty/dirty buttons, as in they have resistance across them when not pressed
Try turning on the TV then unplug that button board with the tv powered on, see what happens...Leave a comment:
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A fuse should read 0 ohms, so both fuses got blown if you're measuring resistance across them
Measure resistance to GND after the fuses, if not shorted (tens of K upwards) then the fuses may have gotten damaged due to heat
The flashing on the USB-C tester may indicate a fault with the TPS65994 or related circuit, sometimes ICs can get damaged when heat is applied for long time
You can start by measuring resistance to GND on the power pins of TPS65994, VIN_3V3_PD1 at CU207, VCC3_LDO_PD1 at CU209, or at the left side of RPU203, VCC1V5_LDO_PD at CU208, and 5VALW...Leave a comment:
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Does the screen show an image if you shine a flashlight to it?
EDIT: Now we have to figure out what prompted your customer to replace the LCD cable in the first place, so I think the original fault is what you have now
Measure +LCDVDD_CON, BL_ON and PANEL_PWMLast edited by m1ch43lzm; 06-05-2025, 08:21 AM.Leave a comment:
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Schematics for the GA401IH, may be close [url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-laptops-tablets-and-mobile-devices/schematic-requests-only/80861-need-schematic-for-asus-rog-ga401iv-br9n6[/url]
From the schematics the charger IC PU8900 has a connection to PROCHOT#, and there's a circuit for HW throttle on the same page that also goes to PROCHOT#, so yes, it may be related to a fault in the charge circuit
SN2867 = BQ24780Shttps://Schematics for the GA401IH, ...iv-br9n6[/url]Leave a comment:
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Ryzen CPU? You can download HWINFO64
[url]https://www.hwinfo.com/download/[/url]
Get the portable version, open it and select "Sensors only"
Then scroll down until you get something like this
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"thumb","data-attachmentid":3652505}[/ATTACH]
If it shows PROCHOT_EXT as "yes", that's the issue
Another thing to look for is the CPU will be stuck at 400MHz
It happened to me on a HP laptop, could be anything like a bad pull-up resistor on that...Leave a comment:
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Hi [USER="590956"]ITz_MisaXD![/USER] , please post a picture of the back of the board near the USB ports
It could be broken filters, or shorted ESD diode
Does the USB port on the left, bluetooth and webcam work fine?
Couldn't find a better picture, check this area in the back
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","data-attachmentid":3652447}[/ATTACH]
Something like this, from 6050A2983601 board (the Ryzen 2000 version of your laptop), but it's on the back in yours
...Leave a comment:
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Update: ended up replacing the board with a 19C1 Hagrid 2.0 HAGRID20-6050A3056501-MB-A01 with Ryzen 3 3200U CPU
Everything working fine, now need to edit BIOS with serial/windows key from dead board, currently says "HP Laptop 14s-dk0xxx", BIOS was tampered with, soldering looks a bit crooked
I can confirm boards marked "Hagrid" are interchangeable with "Ashmore", in the HP 245 G7 / 245 G8, and HP 14-dk, 14-cm, maybe other models with similar chassis
It was listed supposedly as 6050A3176101-MB-A01 "R3-3250 R3-3200", got this...Leave a comment:
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