Kenwood KR-6030 vintage stereo ,Old Man Trying to Save a Buck

[DrDos]

Well I have continuity on all the wires leading from the switch to the speaker terminals. I also noted another of those wires but it was hooked up black to black so I left it lone. I don't have any deoxit so I'm going to use vinegar and hydrogen peroxide (sparingly) to try and clean the switches contacts. I will rinse it with 91% alcohol. Then I will resolder the joints of the switch just in case (like you say) bad solder joints happen in things 50 years old. I keep you informed.

[DrDos]

Well now the blue wire from the four hole connector off the power amp broke off the switch and I can not find where it came off or where it goes on the schematic. I'm really screwed here.

[DrDos]

Well, I think I need a new switch. At least it is working. It just doesn't want to work right, however, this is what happened. I got rock music on 3 outputs A left - B-right + left. Then I got nothing and all I did was wiggle the speakers wires going to the speaker. I just pushed them in with my hand I did not mount them. Then I got nothing and the blance knob only worked on the left side. So I'm going to buy the strongest deoxit and try again. I must have screwed something up cleaning the switch or it has just met it's last days. I can't find one anywhere I may contact Kenwood, maybe their techs know where I can get one. Any idea's?

[Agent24]

The switch doesn't look broken from your other photo, but it's hard to tell given the angle.
Can you take some more photos of it?

Switches usually fail when the contacts wear out from age, or something breaks off.
If it's not that, then it could be dirty/tarnished etc and a good cleaning should fix it.

Make sure if you fix it by cleaning, that you lubricate it afterwards, or it will definitely wear out sooner rather than later!

I very much doubt Kenwood will have stock of a switch this old, but who knows.
Hopefully it is just dirty.


Of course, if the sound cuts out when you move the speaker wires, you perhaps have dirty/broken speaker terminals, or cracked solder connections between the internal wiring and the terminals, for example.

I can't imagine wiggling the speaker wires should cause any mechanical interference with the switch.

[DrDos]

Okay, if the pics are not good enough or not the right angle let me know I'll send more. Now this is wierd, again I find another wire attached from a black lead to a red lead on the inside by the speaker outputs. That has to be what is knocking out the speakers. Soldering a wire from black to red just does not make sense., so I am taking it apart again and taking that wire off. The output leads all have wires attached coming from the switch and they all have continuity so I just don't understand why the wire was used. Somebody tried working on this and gave up or just knew even less than I do, I guess. The speaker terminals are broken I was just shoving the wire into the hole and holding it. You can still attach wires to the terminals for speakers but I was just doing a test. We'll see what happens when I remove this wire. Thanks a bunch. Oh, what are your thoughts about this wire?

[DrDos]

So, after removing said screwed up wire I found that is was a black or ground wire that I think was supposed to be attched from negative A to negative B right and left. I say this because there are no wires going to A negative from the switch at all. Ao, I think it is a duplicate ground or negative from channel B. There are wires connected to channel B from the switch.

[DrDos]

I have a problem. When placing a fuse in the switched unswitched section where power comes into the unit I broke a tab of the fuse holder. I've been trying to find another and it is next to impossible. The one selling do not have fuse holders for my model, so I am wondering is this thing wired up correctly? The power amp board shows a 6amp fuse and a 1amp fuse The schematic shows a 3amp fuse and I am assuming the 3amp fuse goes where the switched and unswitched outlets are specifically between the top section connecting the top part of both outlets? I'm including a specific section of the schematic for you to look at. It shows my model (U type) which was the only one of the 3 specific specs presented that show the two outlets. Perhaps you can tell if this is wired correctly? Thanks much for your time. Cheers!

[stj]

the switch is a wafer switch,.
they are modular and each layer can be replaced - hence the name.
the contacts on those tarnish all the time, so a blast of contact-cleaner and some spinning fixes them.

[stj]

the fuse holder is just pcb mounted fuse clips - cheap and easy to get.