R_J
Badcaps Legend
Last Activity: Today, 08:04 PM
Joined: 06-28-2012
Location: ☻
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The part is a mosfet AO3407A (top mark is A77E) This is likely the switch for the panel vcc, so the panel may have a short -
many of the Samsung power supplies use a 100pf 1kv across the mosfet, the odd one uses 220pf 1kvLeave a comment:
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So, the fault is likely somewhere else in the printer, there are two triacs that control something, it may be whatever they control is shortedLeave a comment:
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That does seem a bit odd that the main bridge rectifier shorts, usually if the mosfet shorts it would not damage RC1 I have seen the bridge get shorted if there is a short to ground somewhere in the primary
Can you connect just the power supply to the ac main and see if it operates? maybe when one of those two triacs turns on it causes the problem?...Leave a comment:
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If you mean CR1 that is a Triac and if it keeps shorting, I would check what is connected after it (white wire) what is connected to the white wire?Leave a comment:
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What "regulator" is shorting?...Leave a comment:
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It may just be a reverse polarity protection diode any 1 amp diode would likely work You would need to clean the conformal coating off the diode to see the markings (alcohol might work)...Leave a comment:
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DZ4 is in parallel with R4A and R4B (2x 0.27Ω) approx. 0.135Ω so it will check shorted in circuit
VB is likely a 12volt zener.
Looking at a board image, ZD4 is a protection diode across the mosfet source resistors, this point is monitored via R7 by the CS (current sense) pin of the drive ic (MIP005?)
If you do not wish to unsolder DZ4 you can lift one end of both R4A and R4B
If the mosfet shorted it is a good chance that the drive ic is also damaged either in it's gate drive circuit OR its current sense input.Leave a comment:
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THERE IS NO DOUBLE CONNECTOR, THE WIRES/SPADE CONNECTORS JUST UNPLUG FROM THE CAPACITOR AND PLUG ONTO THE NEW CAPACITOR, THAT IS WHY YOU HAVE 4 CONNECTIONS ON THE NEW CAPACITOR AND ONE IS LEFT UNUSED
I can see you have never worked with spade connectors or these types of capacitors, but it can't be simpler
here is a video of someone changing a similar capacitor BUT NOTE his only has 2 wires, on your capacitor with 3 wires, the two red wires connect to the same side of the capacitor DO NOT MIX THEM UP WITH THAT SINGLE (DUST COVERED) WIRE
Removing and Replacing a Tumble...Leave a comment:
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1UAW could be TI TPS7A0527PDBZT See page 34 of this datasheet...
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It is a single capacitor; it has two connections, they just put 2 spade connectors on each connection, here I will draw you a picture.
Each side of the capacitor basically has one of these so you CAN connect two wires, but you don't have to, you can only connect one wire if that is all that is required, just make sure you connect the two red wires that are on the same side on the old cap to the same side on the new cap.
If you used a 2 blade cap, you would need to splice the 2 red wires together, which would be unnecessary, get the 4 blade and ignore the extra connection....Leave a comment:
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Explain why it won't work, are you sure it is bad? It does NOT look like a dual start/run capacitor, it is only a single 7.5µ capacitor
New caps have either 2 or 4 terminals or just a pair of wires....Leave a comment:
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The two terminals (red wires) are the same connection, the other single terminal has one wire, the replacement cap just has 4 spade lugs, two on each side so one would not have a wire connected to it.Leave a comment:
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Good to here, there is always a way to repair this situation.Leave a comment:
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Are you sure about this? The primary connects to the ac line, NOT to the bridge rectifier.
other schematics show the voltage and value of these caps. they are standard values used in this position.
R627 (22Ω) is damaged and C629 is bulged, maybe that's where the smoke came from....Leave a comment:
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ICM801 (MC33067) This is a 16-pin dip ic, this does not match your board, see if the Samsung Bn44-00423a is similar
ICM801 is mounted to HS2 (HeatSink 2) I also marked ZDM810 which is a 21v zener on the vcc line...Leave a comment:
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Where did you get that number for ICM801? are you sure it's not a FSFR1700XS
QS801 is the 15v regulator that supplies the pfc ic and ICM801 (main ic) The +15v vcc for ICM801 is also controlled by QM801
QS801 collector is supplied around 25vdc via DS806/CS805, if QS801 emitter is 15v, I suspect ICM801 (vcc pin 7) or zdm810 is shorted...Leave a comment:
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I would go ahead and spend the extra couple dollars and replace them, I would not bother with the main filter cap in the primary it should be ok you could up the voltage from 10v to 16v for that capLeave a comment:
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Check them with your meter using diode test, I believe the B~C voltage will be slightly lower (I just checked one Base to Col .523 Base to Emi .529)Leave a comment:
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Why do you want to replace them? I would bet they are ok and would outlast us both. they are just .01µf 250v disc caps across the bridge rectifier diodes, if they are not shorted, they will be fine
Your picture shows a bad (C629, red) electrolytic, replace them before looking at ceramic disc's
These are the same sprague P00914Leave a comment:
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