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Apparently this light comes on when the TV is completely off (not in picture mode).
Have you checked all the fuses on the board? I didnt see any mention of that.
May have a shorted SMD somewhere. Do you have access to a FLIR? You maybe able to see it heatup upon startup.
i havent seen any reports of a shorted display or things like that.
since you ruled out the backights, the cable and the OCB then the only other thing it could be is that mainboard. TV is too new (IMO) for firmware corruption but thats not out of the question.
if you can find...
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I am hoping that this can tell me if a T-Con is actually working and active. Testing for power at the fuse or on the rails is one thing but i think he placed tbe coils over the Chips/BGAs to show that they were actively processing signal (ie current flowing through them) even though nothing was showing on the display.
Many T-Cons do not have status LEDs on them so there is no way to know if they are functioning or not unless the TV throws a blinking code.
i have a Sony TV which i have been trying to fix for months. I have sound and everything but no display. Its...
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Help finding datasheet for TO-220 Alpha & Omega Semi part# BN7515
Not sure if this is the right forum but i have this one part and i cant find any info on it.
Alpha & Omega Semi part# BN7515.
It has been sitting on my desk for a while but google has not hits.
Can anyine help?
thanks in advance
[ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\t20250422_111805.jpg Views:\t10 Size:\t1.42 MB ID:\t3620635","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"3620635","data-size":"custom","height":"500","tit...
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Just buttoned this up.
Added a 12v 25mm fan, a thick thermal pad to the bottom and a good dab of thermal paste.
I went ahead and tapped into the 5V rail of the USB port bcos the fan running on 12v was way too loud for my liking and USB port only gets power when the unit is turned ON.
I secured the fan with thick double sided adhesive taped (to minimize any vibrations) and found a good spot near the cover where there were vent openings and a clear channel (on the board) to move air.
ChatGPT says that blowing cool air INTO a space is more effective than pulling hot air out...
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Trying to Save - Samsung 60" UN60D6000SFXZA - Displays flashes on then... nothing
Picked this one up the other day.
[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","height":"400","title":"Screenshot 2025-04-15 at 5.19.30\u202fPM.png","width":"454","data-attachmentid":3615985}[/ATTACH]
Previous owner says it would just go off by itself.
When I plugged it up I get a solid standby light.
WHen I power it on i see a HALF the screen (right side) light up then nothing.
Its dim... but not completely off. The TV doesnt respond...
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Verify the markings on the mosfet is correct.
You maybe misreading it.
Post a clear pic so we can help....
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You should have kept going... for science and experience. Dont stop unless it catches on fire!...
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Wanted to circle back around to this topic. I really bothered me that using the smart TV function shortened the lifespan of these TVs so when I came across a Nvidia Shield Pro that needed salvaging/repair I knew exactly what I was going to use it for. It is not connected to the TV and I have ceased using the TVs built-in apps completely. I will likely factory reset the display as well once I get everything tested and buttoned up. Only thing i regret is I cant turn off the Wifi bcos I use some of its functionalities for home automation. Thanks again for the insight guys. The Shield Pro is...
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Yes, BIG thanks to you guys.
That thread of yours saved this TV from the recyclers.
I have saved 3 Frame TVs to date and have kept them all.
Love and utilize the ART function on them....more than i actually ever watch TV.
I am really looking for a smaller one 43/55" (2022+) to go in the dining room.
This is too big (IMO) to go in the intended spot but I might hang it up there until the one i really want comes along and needs repair.
I actually had a 4th defective FRAME TV come my way (bad backlights) but I lost it on the operating table...
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yes i absolutely did. Didnt want to be inconsiderate to your kindness by using an out of spec component wheb there was no need. Maybe one day if i have a burner OCB i will experiment with that alternative.
i think edge-lit is the only way you can get these TVs this slim unless you go OLED but then im not familiar with those or if you can have all the electronics in a remote OCB like you can with these.
anyway im pretty happy to have learned a thing or two with this nice little fix!
I owe you one Sir.
thanks again!...
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[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","height":"500","title":"20250410_143815.jpg","width":"815","data-attachmentid":3612349}[/ATTACH].
It powered on with no issues!
i plugged it up without the One Connect cable/TV attached and it drew 2.0w for a second, then 1.0w for a second, then 0.5w for a second, then it went to 0w and stayed there. I then connected the cabel/TV and it came alive. Drawing 57w in low power picture frame mode and 177w in full TV...
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Look at what [USER="477674"]EazyBone[/USER] sent me today! [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","height":"667","title":"20250410_134924.jpg","width":"500","data-attachmentid":3612279}[/ATTACH]
EazyBone...
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You are right... but...where is the fun in that???
I tossed in the 80R450P to see if i can get signs if life but still nothing.
My ceramic cap seems to be okay too.
I thought of [USER="174490"]eaarnoudse[/USER]'s post about the blown resistor and dodgy IC.
Sure enough the 2R20 cap was gone. Replaced that but still no signs of life so its likely the SSC3S211 which i would not have a spare of ... unless I check some Samsung part boards.
If I dont I'll order it from Ali-E along with the proper 70R380P replacement MOSFET.
...
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