Kenwood KR-6030 vintage stereo ,Old Man Trying to Save a Buck

[DrDos]

Hello all. I'll try to keep this short. I have no knowledge of electronics. I can use a multimeter and am familiar with caps to some extent. I bought a Kenwood KR-6030 vintage stereo. It need work and so I thought I would recap the thing since I get power to the on switch but nothing else is working. No lights, no sound and so forth. I went to Mouser to order caps and I find I am way over my head. I not only do not know the type of capacitors I need but Mouser and digikey do not accept Kenwood part numbers. I have the info such as 220uF 63v and such but no place to put it. I could buy a recap kit for $165 but I'm on a fixed income so I thought I could order the caps I need myself and save a boat load of money. I could also take it to a tech and pay $600 to $800 to make brand new again. I paid $25 for it so I would really like to get it working for a lot less. Question 1: Does anyone here know where I can go to order that accepts kenwood part numbers because I can't tell if I need general capcitors, low impedence, or whatever. I also don't know wether the caps are through hole or something else since I am working off a parts list and probably wouldn't know even by looking at them. Any help would be apreciated. Thanks for your time.

[andrewsawesomr]

Let's start with some easy things. Do the capacitors have a brand name on them (some common ones include Elna, Marcon, Nichicon, Panasonic [Capital M in a Box], Rubycon, and Sanyo). Does the capacitor have a temperature rating like 85°C or 105°C? These factors will help us figure out the specs of the capacitor.

[stj]

you NEED to know the uF, voltage, diameter in mm and maybe height - if it's limited in the case.
it's helpfull to also know the make and series sometimes.

most importantly you need to note if any say "BP" on them or dont have a stripe or polarity marking.

[DrDos]

To Andrew and Great sage: The brand for most of them is Rubycon I can figure the sizes in mm, I know the uF and volts for them. Yes some of them have temps or maybe all I just can't see them. I am working off a parts list for the stereo from the manufacturer. I also have a schematic. I have also found Jemeco distributers where I can put the uF and volts and get a capacitor to purchase. My problem is I am looking to replace ALL the electrolitic capacitors in the power supply, the relay for it so the problem is just ordering the uF and volts does not tell me what they look like. I mean there are pictures provided at Jemeco but there may be 2 or 3 different ones with the same uF and volts. I can read the schematic to some extent. Took me 10 hrs to find the relay but I am trying. I was hoping I could just call the company, get somebody on the phone and rip the numbers off the parts list and wala, but it doesn't look like that is going to happen. I did find out, however, that the cost for all the electrolitic capacitors (if I picked the right ones) would only cost about $20. So I'm thinking why pay $185 to a Canadian dude although his cover every cap in the whole stereo. I don't know, it's a learning curve for sure. Recently I turned the power on the stereo using my dim bulb tester and nothing really happens. I check volts at power cord entry and it's good. Fuses are new but I don't know what to check next. Also, I pulled up an interior picture of the 6030 and it looks like I am missing a fuse holder on the power board. Don't know what the guy who had it before me did other than he said he put a new plug and cord on it. Anyway I am plugging along. I'd appreciate any help or advice, or ... Cheers!

[DrDos]

Oh, I am familiar with the stripe and the positive negative aspect of the caps. Most have the stripe.

[Agent24]

I would forget about capacitors for the moment, if the thing won't even turn on you have bigger problems anyway.

What would greatly help are some well lit photos of the insides of your amplifier, so we can see what's going on, and if there are any obvious issues.

[DrDos]

I was told the power on/off switch had a problem. Apparently it has contacts that carbonize themselves over time. I took it apart and cleaned the contact area and took the carbon off the contacts. Using continuity across the solder joints when I turn the unit on I get continuity and it goes off when I turn it off. So I think I fixed it. Can't get another switch. Personally I think the relay is bad, just a hunch. If you would like specific pics please let me know and thank you for the help.

[DrDos]

I hope tyhe schematic is good enough to read. I took some better pics by taking out the power board with the relay on it. Hard to see otherwise. Thanks for the help.

[DrDos]

Hmmm, I noticed in trying to click on the pic there was no way to zoom into it. Let me know if you want close ups of the schematic.

[stj]

service manual

[DrDos]

Yes, thank you sage I got those pictures from the manual I have except yours has 19 pages instead of 18 and I think it looks better. The parts list is what I am using to pick out capacitors. Unfortunatly I do not know how to check a transformer or relay with an analog meter. I have to wait until I get my next retirement check and go buy a digital one. The relay does not click like it is supposed to when I fire it up.

[stj]

you test a relay by connecting a battery to the coil terminals - itf it clicks it may be good.
if it doesnt click you can connect a lamp or meter across the coil to see if it gets power.