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KENWOOD KA-701 POWERS ON, NO RELAY CLICK
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It could be, but I think Petehall is right, I'm using stainless steel drill bits, trying to drill hardened steel, not getting anywhere in depth because of wrong bit, going to try some carbide bits. The darn set screw is only 3mm in length. When I take bit out and measure depth, I'm not even half way. I'll keep at it, till I get it off, may take awhile. I think I'm a little to far gone to try a left hand drill bit.
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Originally posted by CapLeaker View PostYooo… stainless steel drill bit? May not work very well. Cobalt would be better but hardened steel is hard to drill.
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Originally posted by CapLeaker View PostTroubles? Today at work I felt like I was surrounded by pussytouch idiots.
Hope that makes you feel better now.
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Carbide drill bits arrived, I have a mini camera that I'm going to try and get a peak under that knob, and see what's holding up the removal. Drilling blind sucks, and could cause too much damage. I'm going to see if this will help see what's going on. I'll post those bad components this evening.
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Well got a few more components to check, and I will be ready for a dim bulb test. Hope for no light, and good working amp. I will also list, all the damaged components I found. There wasn't as many as I thought 6 or seven, but I replaced alot, even if they were good. Caps, transistors, a few resistors, that were bad ,or burned up dark looking,but still working.Goinf to post some pics as well of the board.
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Here are the components that were found to be bad. First the two output transistors near Q11. The two were completely dead no readings at all when removed. Q11 was deemed to be ok, but with low readings. It was changed, as was all the rest. Q10, Q9, Q12. Q9 also tested ok ,but with low readings. Next were resistors R23, burnt black, open no reading.R1as well. R3, 21,5,19,6 were all dark and replaced. Transistor Q5 was dead as well as Q1. I replaced all 8 of them anyway. All caps were replaced, one tested bad, C 6. Those are the components that were found to be bad. I replaced all 4 output transistors to keep things even. I want to check a few more things before I use the dim bulb tester. I will post some pics of the board as well.
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Originally posted by CapLeaker View PostYep, still here... just didn't pay attention as I got busy with other things and events at home. Working on a 160pin IC for a entertainment / control system for a BMW X5 right now.
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No... I was about to fiddle around with the programmable input and output pins, dragging them into the opposite direction on the ATMEGA and see if something changes on the blue LED or on the gas valve. I was hoping to find a problem with a pin, then backtracking the circuit. Then I was on the road and never made it back to the welder.
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