Its pretty hard to ID them, most T3 google images show the battery cables under the LCD, but there are still a couple of differences to mess it all up.
Anyhow, great! I'll likely test with the 8MHz first. And while waiting for the rotary encoder, can I go ahead and flash the test file first? Will basic functions still work with the std button?
Just in case, I need to revert or reflash back to recover... are there any dump of the original factory default software/firmware that came with these T3/T4?
you can put a header on with jump wires - unfortunatly they didnt route the tracks to any pads for one.
i'v said this to people before, but put a good 16MHz crystal on it.
you will increase the accuracy, and enable the crystal/resonator tester.
(needs a software upgrade.)
you can put a header on with jump wires - unfortunatly they didnt route the tracks to any pads for one.
i'v said this to people before, but put a good 16MHz crystal on it.
you will increase the accuracy, and enable the crystal/resonator tester.
(needs a software upgrade.)
Before I reprogram my T3, I traced the programming pad and found the RESET pad is not connected to the atmega328 reset pin. Instead it goes to pin 30 (rxd/pcint16/pd0) see attached pic.
Shouldn't the programming pad RESET be connected to pin 29 (RESET)?
Before I reprogram my T3, I traced the programming pad and found the RESET pad is not connected to the atmega328 reset pin. Instead it goes to pin 30 (rxd/pcint16/pd0) see attached pic.
Shouldn't the programming pad RESET be connected to pin 29 (RESET)?
can you double-check those pads, they use that to program them after assembly.
about that video - NEVER BEND THE FUCKING WIRES OVER.
it makes stuff much harder to remove again without damaging the pads.
damn i hate these amateur video's teaching people bad stuff.
and make sure you use 99% IPA to remove all the flux afterwards.
it may not seem important usually, but on something like this, it can effect the readings!
I read EBOOK of Testing Electronic Component and found that
"In order to test the small blue resin coated ceramic disk capacitor which has 104 50v specification,it is possible to test this small ceramic capacitor by making use of analogue meter.
Set to times 10Kohm that has 12v output from the probe to check disorder of ceramic capacitor.
It is not uncommon that testing result of digital capacitance meter is okay,But It show shorted reading when you check it with analogue meter."
Is it really possible to test small ceramic disc capacitor with analogue...
I have had with regular AA batteries that leak this meter is expensive new I already replaced the battery battery clips once and the same thing happened again and I am tried of so it is getting modified to accommodate lithium ion batteries that are the same size excluding the positive terminal and removing the battery clips I will have enough room for the BMS protection board
I going to put 3 lithium ion battery in parallel with the BMS protection board and a way to charge the battery externally and heat shrink the battery pack and use a JST connector so I easily remove the battery...
I want to change the scale of an analog meter, to monitor the charge of an li-ion single cell, so the needle at the end would point 4.2 volts and the 0 on the meter would point 2.5 volts or so, i tried to add diodes or a zener in series with the meter but the changes of the ambient temperature also changes the voltage value on the meter
I wonder how i can accomplish this so the meter would be precise at any temperature ?
About a month ago we had a transformer jumper wire that burned in two different places between two transformers caused over $200 thousand dollars worth of damage to VFD drives at least 10 of them and a memory card and quite a few power supply as well
Now we have most of the equipment that got damaged back up and running except a feeder that has issues and we are waiting for some parts for
Now we also have another piece of equipment that was blowing fuses on the 110 volt controller switch circuit with the “E” stops and one switching power (24 volt) supply and a transformer...
hi guys so i have this ps4 fat 1215 i believe ( the one with the ps4 pro/slim newer encoder ic ) so i replaced hdmi and 2 blown filters and still no pic so i replaced encoder and still no pic. i made sure port is solid even checked with a breakout hdmi and tested ground and data lines.. Filters are all good , though 2 of the newer ones are larger then the original ones i dont know if that matters ?
Made sure under the scope encoder pins all look solid went over with fine tip and solder again. Idk but this thing is stressing me out..
ps4 seems to boot fine blue light then solid...
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