Actually I plan to use only parts I have in my parts collection. I have a pile of HD44780 16x2 displays too, and thus don't think I actually need to buy anything, as far as I know right now.
Guys, out of the current types of El Cheapo ESR cap meters available on fleabay which one would you recommend? I need it to be able to measure at least up to 5000 uF and having some sort of charge protection would be a big bonus (not sure if any of those 5-10$ units have any protection).
the AY-AT type colour kit is probably the best.
it's got the most features, and being a kit you can fit a better voltage reference and faster crystal without desoldering the old ones.
i'll just add that if you dont own an atmel programmer then spend 2$ on a USBasp as well - so you can keep the fiirmware up to date.
is the schematic the official one from the pdf?
if it is then be carefull - the pin numbers arent clearly marked if they are for the 28pin dip package or the 32pin smd one.
There are a bunch of schematic GIFs floating around, and yeah I am using the 28-pin version. Not sure which one is the "official" one anymore either... though it is on mikrocontroller.net ...
Ah looks like figure 2.1 is what I'm using, close enough with the 16x2 LCD.
Just need to figure out how I want to attach the LCD, and which LCD from the pile I want to use (have both 2x7 and 1x14 pin orientation types of LCDs...)
OK here it is with my li-po mod and ISP header mod. The lipo is 1500mah and has protection circuitry built in. The second picture is how i wired the charger and boost converter in to the tester, I found this diagram online at this site- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1797074 My charger/boost converter was one piece so I cut a trace and separated the 2 the same way as this person did about 1/2 way down in this thread- https://www.jyetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1153
I also changed the resistor on the boost converter part to 100k and it output 6.5 volts.
Now it's time to try out the firmware that stj cooked up for me! Is there a guide anywhere that shows how to use the makefile and compile custom code?
throw the makefile into a text editor - it's full of notes
what's the output voltage of the boost convertor?
just asking because your passing it through a 5v regulator that probably needs atleast 6v to function.
I also really wonder about those HD44780 displays run write-only... I ended up writing some AVR code that does proper read/write loop and the update speed is quite snappy, was using this on my PSU project and it's fast enough to be about illegible while holding down a button for auto-repeat (press down=move by 1 (debounced in software), hold down 0.5 second = auto repeat by 1, fast.) I initially did it write-only to save a GPIO pin, simply couldn't get it to update fast...
As it was a PSU, it also had a voltmeter and ammeter. Both were updating in excess of 20fps, which is probably faster than one really can keep an eye on anyway and still be able to read it...
i had the hitachi dev manual once,
you only use read to check the ready flag after a write.
most people just use a delay equal to worst-case between writes and ignore the ready signal.
I opened the makefile with a text editor. Actually I opened all the files with a text editor. When i was a child i was always taking things apart to see what was inside. I cann see how i can chane all kinds of configurations in the makefile, getting the makefile to generate the TransistorTester.eep and TransistorTester.hex files is where i'm lost. do i use something like winavr?
I read EBOOK of Testing Electronic Component and found that
"In order to test the small blue resin coated ceramic disk capacitor which has 104 50v specification,it is possible to test this small ceramic capacitor by making use of analogue meter.
Set to times 10Kohm that has 12v output from the probe to check disorder of ceramic capacitor.
It is not uncommon that testing result of digital capacitance meter is okay,But It show shorted reading when you check it with analogue meter."
Is it really possible to test small ceramic disc capacitor with analogue...
I have had with regular AA batteries that leak this meter is expensive new I already replaced the battery battery clips once and the same thing happened again and I am tried of so it is getting modified to accommodate lithium ion batteries that are the same size excluding the positive terminal and removing the battery clips I will have enough room for the BMS protection board
I going to put 3 lithium ion battery in parallel with the BMS protection board and a way to charge the battery externally and heat shrink the battery pack and use a JST connector so I easily remove the battery...
I want to change the scale of an analog meter, to monitor the charge of an li-ion single cell, so the needle at the end would point 4.2 volts and the 0 on the meter would point 2.5 volts or so, i tried to add diodes or a zener in series with the meter but the changes of the ambient temperature also changes the voltage value on the meter
I wonder how i can accomplish this so the meter would be precise at any temperature ?
About a month ago we had a transformer jumper wire that burned in two different places between two transformers caused over $200 thousand dollars worth of damage to VFD drives at least 10 of them and a memory card and quite a few power supply as well
Now we have most of the equipment that got damaged back up and running except a feeder that has issues and we are waiting for some parts for
Now we also have another piece of equipment that was blowing fuses on the 110 volt controller switch circuit with the “E” stops and one switching power (24 volt) supply and a transformer...
hi guys so i have this ps4 fat 1215 i believe ( the one with the ps4 pro/slim newer encoder ic ) so i replaced hdmi and 2 blown filters and still no pic so i replaced encoder and still no pic. i made sure port is solid even checked with a breakout hdmi and tested ground and data lines.. Filters are all good , though 2 of the newer ones are larger then the original ones i dont know if that matters ?
Made sure under the scope encoder pins all look solid went over with fine tip and solder again. Idk but this thing is stressing me out..
ps4 seems to boot fine blue light then solid...
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