Hey everyone,
It's been a while since I've been here but I'm coming to you with another case to solve as I always turn to the Badcaps Forum to help diagnose these types of things. Alright let's get to it.
This Samsung 460CXN (has a built in Windows embedded PC in it) was found with a bad smell coming from it and no display; it was promptly unplugged and turned over to me for possible repair. Upon opening up the set and carefully inspecting the display's power board (this set has two power supplies, one for the display and one for the computer), I immediately noticed both Samwha HZ Series 450wv 150uF snap-in caps were leaking and bad. Electrolytic fluid had leaked onto the surface of the board and one of them was actually loose on it's legs. I've replaced both of these with brand new Nichicon GX Series 500v 150uF snap-in caps. The end result after quickly turning it on and back off was no power-on at all. We have quite a few of these things and when flipping the black power switch does not power on the display and computer side of things, there's usually an audible click from the main power board when it's receiving power. Just in case I tried shorting the display adapter's pin for power-on to see if I could force it and no-go there either.
I realize that for these guys to go it usually means something prior in circuit to them usually has gone bad thus allowing them to receive too much voltage. This display has been ran about 12 hours a day for the last 8 years or so, so age may have something to do with it as well.
Besides replacing the capactiors, I've removed and tested the ferrite diodes around this circuit which can be seen as having a checkmark by them in the pictures on the top of the board. I chose to do this because there was some discoloration around their solder joints and they must have gotten hot. Another thing to note is the noticeable black squigly mark on the top of the board near the transformer; not sure what that is. And then I noticed a bit of residue or an abnormality around one of RL811S on bottom view of board.
Please take a look at the attached pictures and let me know if you all see anything that I should be testing here or that you'd like to take a closer look at.
Thanks as always!
It's been a while since I've been here but I'm coming to you with another case to solve as I always turn to the Badcaps Forum to help diagnose these types of things. Alright let's get to it.
This Samsung 460CXN (has a built in Windows embedded PC in it) was found with a bad smell coming from it and no display; it was promptly unplugged and turned over to me for possible repair. Upon opening up the set and carefully inspecting the display's power board (this set has two power supplies, one for the display and one for the computer), I immediately noticed both Samwha HZ Series 450wv 150uF snap-in caps were leaking and bad. Electrolytic fluid had leaked onto the surface of the board and one of them was actually loose on it's legs. I've replaced both of these with brand new Nichicon GX Series 500v 150uF snap-in caps. The end result after quickly turning it on and back off was no power-on at all. We have quite a few of these things and when flipping the black power switch does not power on the display and computer side of things, there's usually an audible click from the main power board when it's receiving power. Just in case I tried shorting the display adapter's pin for power-on to see if I could force it and no-go there either.
I realize that for these guys to go it usually means something prior in circuit to them usually has gone bad thus allowing them to receive too much voltage. This display has been ran about 12 hours a day for the last 8 years or so, so age may have something to do with it as well.
Besides replacing the capactiors, I've removed and tested the ferrite diodes around this circuit which can be seen as having a checkmark by them in the pictures on the top of the board. I chose to do this because there was some discoloration around their solder joints and they must have gotten hot. Another thing to note is the noticeable black squigly mark on the top of the board near the transformer; not sure what that is. And then I noticed a bit of residue or an abnormality around one of RL811S on bottom view of board.
Please take a look at the attached pictures and let me know if you all see anything that I should be testing here or that you'd like to take a closer look at.
Thanks as always!
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