Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?

[Tynan Dill]

I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.

Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.

I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.

The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.

With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.

Assuming it was a problem with the T-Con Board I replaced it, but it didn't fix the problem.

Seen a few YouTube videos with the same exact TV and same exact issue as I'm describing, with the Power Supply Board being at fault and replacing it fixed the issue.

I bought a replacement Power Supply Board but bought the wrong one not knowing the part numbers to match with a replacement, I just bought it by the TV model number not knowing there are two or 3 of the same board and all are not compatible with my TV model.

The original Power Supply Part and Board numbers are "V 09-60CAP000-00 F0020EAAU9WW1343" and "1P-1139800-1012"

The replacement Power Supply Part and Board numbers are "V 09-60CAP000-00 F0020DAARJVC 1338" and "1P-1138801-1011"

(See attached pictures)

When I installed the replacement power board, the TV lost complete power, no stand by lights or anything. I used my DMM to test the voltage at the power cable plug in connector, LED lights connector, and the Main Board connector on the Power Supply Board. There were no voltages showing from any of the pin points at all 3 of the said locations.

I removed the replacement board and put the original Power Supply Board back into the TV and it had power again but still the backlight issue. I tested the voltages at the same points as the replacement board, only this time the Main Board pins all showed the voltages as indicated at the connector on the Power Supply Board, but there is suspicious voltage readings at the LED connector.

I swapped the both of these boards twice to confirm this. The replacement Power Supply Board doesn't supply power to the TV because it isn't compatible with my TV model. The two compatible Part Numbers and Board Numbers for my TV model are :

1. Part Number : Vizio 09-60CAP000-00 Board Number : 1P-1139800-1012 (My Original)

or

2 Part Number : Vizio 09-60CAP000-00 Board Number : 1P-1127800-1010
https://www.tvpartsguy.com/vizio-e60...Kg0pZIVG9vt2Pw

The "V 09-60CAP000-00 F0020DAARJVC 1338" and "1P-1138801-1011" replacement board I bought is compatible with Vizio e601i-A3E, not my Vizio e601i-A3.
https://www.tvpartsguy.com/vizio-e60...9-60cap000-00/

Simply bought the wrong and incompatible board.


As such, I am returning the replacement Power Supply Board I bought and can find the correct replacement to replace the Power Supply Board, but now I'm skeptical about the LED strips being in working condition and if even installing a working Power Supply Board would fix the issue. There are also not too many online resources to troubleshoot this specific issue for this specific model, yet alone a teardown video to follow in case the LED Strips need to be replaced

The issue comes down to the Power Supply Board or the LED Strips.

On this website I found this LED test procedure that gave me some insight to test both the Power Supply Board and the LED Strips :

"You have Four LED strings, the LED connector shows Plus (Anode) pin and Minus (Cathode return) pin for each LED string.

You need to put meter in 200V DC range, then keep black probe of the meter on the chassis, then put red probe, I.E. on the VLED1 - 1+ then turn the TV on while watching the meter to see how high it goes up to and then wait about 5 seconds to see how low it goes down to, record the results, then turn off the TV and repeat the same test on the other 7 pins of the LED connector."

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...acklight-issue

Basically just test the pins with the LED connector on the Power Supply Board disconnected from the LED Strip wires, then test again with things reconnected, turning the TV on and off for each voltage reaading.

Here are my test results :

DMM set @ 200 DCV

LED Connector Connected -
VLED1 1+ : 83.0v @ Startup, voltage drops to 00.0 and LED lights power off.
VLED1 1- : Stays @ 00.0v, no voltage.
VLED1 2+ : Stays @ 00.0v, no voltage.
VLED1 2- : 87.0v @ Startup, voltage drops to 00.0 and LED lights power off.
VLED2 1+ : 178.0v @ Startup, voltage drops to 00.0 and LED lights power off.
VLED2 1- : Stays @ 00.0v, no voltage.
VLED2 2+ : Stays @ 00.0v, no voltage.
VLED2 2- 85.0v @ Startup, voltage drops to 00.0 and LED lights power off.

LED Connector Disconnected -
VLED1 1+ : 164.0v @ Startup, voltage drops to 00.0 and LED lights power off.
VLED1 1- : Stays @ 00.0v, no voltage.
VLED1 2+ : Stays @ 00.0v, no voltage.
VLED1 2- : -157.0v @ Startup, voltage raises to 00.0 and LED lights power off.
VLED2 1+ : 165.0v @ Startup, voltage drops to 00.0 and LED lights power off.
VLED2 1- : Stays @ 00.0v, no voltage.
VLED2 2+ : Stays @ 00.0v, no voltage.
VLED2 2- : -158.0v @ Startup, voltage raises to 00.0v and LED lights power off.


During this procedure, I also checked the voltages at the Main Board connector on the Power Supply Board and the Power Supply Connector on the Main Board. Every pin on both ends showed the correct voltage readings as shown .

I'm skeptical about the Power Supply Board and LED test results. With the connector disconnected, the voltage readings are about half less the voltage readings with the connector connected. However, with the connector connected two of those voltage reading were negative value readings.

How many volts should I see with a correctly working system ? I'm assuming the 160-170v ballpark I'm seeing without the LED connector connected ?

If the voltages are lower with the LED connector connected than disconnected, is that a problem from the LED Strips or the Power Supply Board ?

Could the negative voltage readings I see without the LED Connector connected, cause the low voltage readings I see with the LED connector connected ? Would hat be at the fault of a bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Strips ?

All in all, is the Power Supply Board Bad or are the LED Strips bad ??

[lotas]

It is necessary to measure the voltage between VLED1 1+ and VLED1 1-, VLED1 2+ and VLED1 2- and so on. If the power appears and then starts to drop, this indicates that the backlight is faulty.

[Tynan Dill]

It is necessary to measure the voltage between VLED1 1+ and VLED1 1-, VLED1 2+ and VLED1 2- and so on. If the power appears and then starts to drop, this indicates that the backlight is faulty.

So the backlights are definitely faulty and replacing the LED strips will fix my problem ?


The LED Strips for my model are Sharp LC-60LE640U LED Light Strips, which is only 2 strips. Is there only 2 strips in this model TV ?? The last set I replaced had 8-10 strips.


Where should I buy ? I see some on eBay for $20-30 but I am sure they aren't authentic, and with a big of a job this is going to be replacing the LED Strips, I want to get it done right once for a long time.


Do you of any resources you can refer me to for teardown and put back together for this specific model ?

[EazyBone]

I think you got a bad replacement board. Those are compatible boards. Everything is the same on them to output correct voltages. So they probably sent you a bad board.

I use a LED tester off Amazon to confirm they are bad... Lotas method probably works as well I just don't use it

Always use shop jimmy to compare parts etc as it will show all compatible TVs. This is how I checked your board .. they sent you a faulty one. Make them pay for return shipping etc ( I would)

Yes only 2 strips. Here's a link

https://www.shopjimmy.com/sharp-vizi...e601i-a3e-new/

You can make offer ( I do this all the time) offer like $20 and they will counter with 30. Then you can search for a coupon and apply that also and get a better price.

But I personally would just buy them off eBay. They don't sell "factory lights" really... And eBay $23 free shipping compared to shop jimmy 45+ $15 shipping usually (before offer)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27674308636...mis&media=COPY

Don't have specific test down.. but make sure you have grounding tape or make sure the old tape can be reused. Can post here if you have questions while doing it

[Tynan Dill]

I think you got a bad replacement board. Those are compatible boards. Everything is the same on them to output correct voltages. So they probably sent you a bad board.

I use a LED tester off Amazon to confirm they are bad... Lotas method probably works as well I just don't use it

Always use shop jimmy to compare parts etc as it will show all compatible TVs. This is how I checked your board .. they sent you a faulty one. Make them pay for return shipping etc ( I would)

Yes only 2 strips. Here's a link

https://www.shopjimmy.com/sharp-vizi...e601i-a3e-new/

You can make offer ( I do this all the time) offer like $20 and they will counter with 30. Then you can search for a coupon and apply that also and get a better price.

But I personally would just buy them off eBay. They don't sell "factory lights" really... And eBay $23 free shipping compared to shop jimmy 45+ $15 shipping usually (before offer)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27674308636...mis&media=COPY

Don't have specific test down.. but make sure you have grounding tape or make sure the old tape can be reused. Can post here if you have questions while doing it

Nice to know they have a LED tester tool. I'm going to invest in one of those to confirm the LED Strips are bad before buying new strips.

Well if that's the case, I'll buy the eBay strips.

[Tynan Dill]

Is this the LED tester you're referring to ?

[x_orange90_x]

Is this the LED tester you're referring to ?

Amazon, my friend.. Amazon.

This is the one I bought and it works great:
TKDMR LED Lamp Bead TV Backlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082GVB68Y...p_mob_ap_share

Your issue is more than likely backlights. If you have Amazon Prime you might be able to get that overnight and know for sure by this time tomorrow. I've only had one Vizio not have backlights that turned out to not actually be the backlights. It was a P-series and it ended up being a few blown capacitors. The E and V series are the cheapest and backlight failure is very common.

As for where to get the strips..I recommend eBay. There is no difference between the ones on there and ShopJimmy other than cost. I've purchased many sets from eBay and only ever had 1 strip come doa and was refunded the next morning. I purchased a set from ShopJimmy for my 60" Samsung for about $75 and within a month of putting them in the light spreaders started falling off one by one inside the screen and I had several bright spots. They did replace them, but the replacement set had an issue with arcing at the connectors between strips. I replaced with a $30 set from eBay and the TV is still going strong after about 3 years with at least 12 hours use every day.

[Tynan Dill]

Well, I can buy a new or preowned replacement Power Supply Board for a little under $150 and have to me in 2 to 7 business days...or ship it to a repair shop for $60 and about a months wait.

[Tynan Dill]

Amazon, my friend.. Amazon.

This is the one I bought and it works great:
TKDMR LED Lamp Bead TV Backlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082GVB68Y...p_mob_ap_share

Your issue is more than likely backlights. If you have Amazon Prime you might be able to get that overnight and know for sure by this time tomorrow. I've only had one Vizio not have backlights that turned out to not actually be the backlights. It was a P-series and it ended up being a few blown capacitors. The E and V series are the cheapest and backlight failure is very common.

As for where to get the strips..I recommend eBay. There is no difference between the ones on there and ShopJimmy other than cost. I've purchased many sets from eBay and only ever had 1 strip come doa and was refunded the next morning. I purchased a set from ShopJimmy for my 60" Samsung for about $75 and within a month of putting them in the light spreaders started falling off one by one inside the screen and I had several bright spots. They did replace them, but the replacement set had an issue with arcing at the connectors between strips. I replaced with a $30 set from eBay and the TV is still going strong after about 3 years with at least 12 hours use every day.

Got it, Amazon it is. Yes, I have 1 day shipping but I won't be able to buy until this upcoming Sunday or Monday.

I really appreciate all the info you guys are giving me on this issue, really means alot.

[Tynan Dill]

I think you got a bad replacement board. Those are compatible boards. Everything is the same on them to output correct voltages. So they probably sent you a bad board.

I use a LED tester off Amazon to confirm they are bad... Lotas method probably works as well I just don't use it

Always use shop jimmy to compare parts etc as it will show all compatible TVs. This is how I checked your board .. they sent you a faulty one. Make them pay for return shipping etc ( I would)

Yes only 2 strips. Here's a link

https://www.shopjimmy.com/sharp-vizi...e601i-a3e-new/

You can make offer ( I do this all the time) offer like $20 and they will counter with 30. Then you can search for a coupon and apply that also and get a better price.

But I personally would just buy them off eBay. They don't sell "factory lights" really... And eBay $23 free shipping compared to shop jimmy 45+ $15 shipping usually (before offer)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27674308636...mis&media=COPY

Don't have specific test down.. but make sure you have grounding tape or make sure the old tape can be reused. Can post here if you have questions while doing it

Is there a way to test the Power Supply Board I bought to see if it is faulty ?

[Tynan Dill]

Amazon, my friend.. Amazon.

This is the one I bought and it works great:
TKDMR LED Lamp Bead TV Backlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082GVB68Y...p_mob_ap_share

Your issue is more than likely backlights. If you have Amazon Prime you might be able to get that overnight and know for sure by this time tomorrow. I've only had one Vizio not have backlights that turned out to not actually be the backlights. It was a P-series and it ended up being a few blown capacitors. The E and V series are the cheapest and backlight failure is very common.

As for where to get the strips..I recommend eBay. There is no difference between the ones on there and ShopJimmy other than cost. I've purchased many sets from eBay and only ever had 1 strip come doa and was refunded the next morning. I purchased a set from ShopJimmy for my 60" Samsung for about $75 and within a month of putting them in the light spreaders started falling off one by one inside the screen and I had several bright spots. They did replace them, but the replacement set had an issue with arcing at the connectors between strips. I replaced with a $30 set from eBay and the TV is still going strong after about 3 years with at least 12 hours use every day.

Also, how do you use the LED Strip Tester ?

[EazyBone]

Check out some vid is on YouTube. Also Amazon led testers are cheaper. Believe me eBay will take a long time to get it.. do Amazon like he says.

Use a multimeter to test your power supply. Leave it in the TV, disconnect all the cables so it's stand alone. Plug it in and test the voltages. Do NOT short anything and best to not touch the hot side. Multimeter can be bought for 5-15$ also if you don't have

Don't get ahead of yourself on the PSU. Do one thing at a time. Test first b4 you go spending all this money on an old tv

[Tynan Dill]

Check out some vid is on YouTube. Also Amazon led testers are cheaper. Believe me eBay will take a long time to get it.. do Amazon like he says.

Use a multimeter to test your power supply. Leave it in the TV, disconnect all the cables so it's stand alone. Plug it in and test the voltages. Do NOT short anything and best to not touch the hot side. Multimeter can be bought for 5-15$ also if you don't have

Don't get ahead of yourself on the PSU. Do one thing at a time. Test first b4 you go spending all this money on an old tv

Which parts of the board do I use my DMM on ? What voltages should I be looking for ?

[EazyBone]

These. Do all 1-15 on both boards same way.

[Tynan Dill]

These. Do all 1-15 on both boards same way.

Gotcha. I've been gone a couple of days. I just ordered the LED tester.

Going to follow these steps to test them while the TV is still together:
https://youtu.be/4DS8_utsLPo?si=ALzfNl6-bet-t9fz

[Tynan Dill]

These. Do all 1-15 on both boards same way.

I already packaged the replacement board for a return and refund, but I can test the board I have back in it.

[Tynan Dill]

These. Do all 1-15 on both boards same way.

Ok...

I tested the power board per your instructions. I unplugged the LED connector and main board connector from the board, and left only the power cable connector on the board, as pictured :


Here are the test results :

1. - 03.3v
2. - 04.4v
3. - 00.0v
4. - 12.4v
5. - 00.0v
6. - 00.0v
7. - 00.0v
8. - 12.2v
9. - 12.2v
10. - 00.0v
11. - 00.0v
12. - 00.0v
13. - 00.0v
14. - 00.0v
15. - 00.0v

What are we looking at with these results ?

[EazyBone]

Well rip it out of the package and plug it in. Definitely worth your time. But original board is looking fine. Besides testing the other board wait for the led tester. Always test the LEDs with the PSU disconnected . Use the legend and put + and - in correct spot.

[Tynan Dill]

Well rip it out of the package and plug it in. Definitely worth your time. But original board is looking fine. Besides testing the other board wait for the led tester. Always test the LEDs with the PSU disconnected . Use the legend and put + and - in correct spot.

Ok, I'll go ahead and get it out of the box and test it too real quick.

[Tynan Dill]

Well rip it out of the package and plug it in. Definitely worth your time. But original board is looking fine. Besides testing the other board wait for the led tester. Always test the LEDs with the PSU disconnected . Use the legend and put + and - in correct spot.

Replacement board shows no voltages at any of the points referenced in the 1st test.