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repair-it
repair-it
Senior Member
Last Activity: 01-27-2024, 10:44 PM
Joined: 11-06-2020
Location: Long Island NY
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  • Yes, what you say about the voltage difference makes sense. The problem is finding replacement boards. The other issue is reprogramming the set after board replacement unless you can find a matching set. Far more than I'm getting paid to do, so it is going onto someone else to mess with. Not worth my time & effort....
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  • ok, I think I have a faulty PSU. I did as you said and I do not have any standby voltage so I didn't go any further. Also, there is no voltage present on the 2 large caps on the secondary side. Before I disconnected everything I powered up the board and main caps went to 380v but then board shut down. After removal and powering up, main caps only went to 160v. What really sucks is both Main Board & PSU for this TV are hard to come by right now.
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  • Yes I am second guessing my choice. I have a small place and this one is testing my space limits. Trying it just this one time, I think I will stay away from anything larger than 65" and from OLED completely unless am able to become more proficient (more studying) at troubleshooting them. The LED TV's seemed much easier by comparison. BUT, maybe it's just me.🤔 Customer is coming today to p/u his LG. He said he will try to resolve it with LG direct (good luck with that!) I gave it my best shot but it got to a point it was no longer worth my time & there were other device repairs I needed...
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  • SONY Bravia OLED XR-77A80J will not power on

    SONY XR-77A80J shuts off as soon as it is powered on. It goes into standby ok when plugged in but when power button is pressed, relay clicks and tv powers off. Power supply board makes a sound that sounds like momentary coil whine when it clicks off. The main board appears to turn on and has working optical.

    I pulled the power supply board for visual inspection & there wasn't anything obvious. I am not sure how to go about testing this OLED as it is a bit different than the last one (LG) I tried to repair. The only voltage listed on the PSU is 12v for T-CON. The 12v is not present...
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  • I just got another OLED, didn't want to take it but they asked if I could '[I]at least look at it[/I].' Will start a new post for that tv which is a SONY BRAVIA OLED XR-77A80JI just got another OLED, didn't want to take it but they asked if I could '[I]at least look at it[/I].' Will start a new post for that tv which is a SONY BRAVIA OLED XR-77A80JI just got another OLED, didn't want to take it but they asked if I could '[I]at least look at it[/I].' Will start a new post for that tv which is a SONY BRAVIA OLED XR-77A80J
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  • ok, thanks for all the help. I tried to power on & all I got was a relay click. I tried using both the service remote and the button on the TV. The LED blinked momentarily but nothing came up and now no longer get the chime either. Giving set back to customer, my guess is panel went bad.
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  • ok, Heard relay click when I pressed '0' and agin when I pressed '3'. LED remained on. What should I expect after hearing the relay click? Should I reconnect cable & try to power on?
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  • ok, will try that as you suggest, one last time 👍😖
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  • I have already tried that, there was no response from the TV. At this point I am giving the TV back to customer as he does not want to try replacing the T-con board and I have already spent way too much time trying to figure this one out. Thank you to all who offered their suggestions....
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  • The attached picture shows the eMMc chip on my T-CON board, just to clarify your inaccurate statement. [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3203243}[/ATTACH] What I hope to do is find a way to test the eMMc chip and maybe even learn how to clone a good eMMc.The attached picture shows the eMMc chip on my T-CON board, just to clarify your inaccurate statement. [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3203243}[/ATTACH] What I hope...
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  • Yes, I did not exceed 12v while using 1K resistor when trying to get main board to turn on. I removed the T-CON board and applied 6v 1A to it, there was no unusual amp increase displayed on power supply. I then looked at the board with IR cam and did not see any hot spots. I also did a continuity check of all caps and all were ok. My *guess* is it is a faulty eMMc chip or panel went bad....
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    Last edited by repair-it; 01-23-2024, 11:26 AM.

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  • For a customer. Actually the lines are multi color.

    After this first time experience - I am a bit concerned about trying to repair these newer OLED type TVs. The more research I do into this newer technology, I am seeing a pattern of eMMc chip failures after about 2 years. I just got another 2 year old TV (SONY Bravia 75" OLED) in yesterday with the same issue - will not turn on and after some quick research online, it seems a common fault is eMMc failure. There is an eMMc chip on the T-CON board of the LG OLED TV that I've been trying to repair and now I suspect it could be...
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    Last edited by repair-it; 01-23-2024, 11:11 AM.

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  • Had to step away for a few days to do some other repairs. Ordered replacement Main Board, it arrived & was installed. Powered TV up, got the start up tone(didn't get that in the past) and have optical light. Pulled both LVDS and have vertical lines on panel as shown in last pictured I had attached (message #47) All expected voltages were present. POWER ONLY button on Service remote does turn TV on, LED blinks 3 times then LED turns off, set remains on but Power ONLY button no longer operates TV, had to use POWER button to turn off (with lower LVDS cable disconnected). When ON all I can see...
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    Last edited by repair-it; 01-21-2024, 02:25 PM.

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  • [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3180022}[/ATTACH] I plugged everything back in except lower LVDS cable and this is what I get when I powered up. Service remote has no effect on TV. Not sure if this is bad main board or T-CON. Power LED will not illuminate. Optical port not illuminated....
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  • Will try Service remote. Should that be done after reconnecting all first? I tried (message #41) to no avail, nothing happened when I powered TV up.
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  • REALLY??! Oh geez, that was one thought I had.. a bad panel. Well, I do know these did come with a 5 year warrantee on the panel. Hopefully It'' turn on when I give it another shot tomorrow.Thanks for that info....
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  • I appreciate your help & understand English is a secondary language for you so I just want to be sure I completely understand what you are saying.

    I should only have 2 wires connected between MAIN board & POWER board. One of those goes from the 12VM out on the Power Board and connects to the appropriate connection on the Main Board, The other connects from the 3 and goes to one side of a 1K resistor and the other side of resistor goes to the 3.3v connection on the Main board. Disconnect both LVDS cables. Everything else remains connected. Then Power up. Is that correct? I...
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    Last edited by repair-it; 01-15-2024, 04:36 PM.

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  • This is my first time working on an OLED TV so it is a learning experience for me. I connected USB mouse, monitored T-Con voltage when connecting power, then powered up. It remained @ 12v until it went into sleep mode. Mouse had no effect after in sleep mode. LVDS lower cable disconnected entire time, no optical LED the entire time. I ordered a Service Remote, but unfamiliar with how it 'could' help. The TV is only 2 years old....
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  • Did as you suggested, turned set on, monitored voltages at T-CON & OLED connections on PSU for aprox 5 minutes, voltages held, but no optical(red) visible. Does this indicate a bad main board or could it be a T-Con issue?
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  • ok, to clear up any misunderstanding this is where I am at right now, I did not remove power supply board but decided to give this a go one more time. I plugged the main board back into the power supply board and now [U]all voltages[/U] ARE present 🙄[B][I]as listed[/I][/B], including T-CON & OLED on power supply board. I have NOT reconnected the T-CON or the OLED yet.

    If there is an issue with either one (will do one at a time) What should be monitored when doing this? I would presume the corresponding connector for supply voltage of each on the power supply board?🤔 If one...
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    Last edited by repair-it; 01-13-2024, 03:03 PM.

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