Hi everyone - my first thread... so hopefully in the correct place 
This is my first mission and having done some reading here I thought I'd ask a few questions before diving in with my soldering iron (circa 1980!)
My son's TV, a 'budget' model is around four or five years old (from memory and all the 08 and 09 numbers I keep seeing on the inside) and has what looks like the "2 seconds to black" symptoms:
Power on and the standby light illuminates, power on from remote and there is a pause and then the backlights flash (as in flashbulb if you're old enough to remember those) then the standby light comes back on and the flash/off cycles. I don't see any picture at any point, even with a torch.
TV details
Make: Bush (I've seen it may also be listed as ALBA?)
Model: LCD2280F1080P
other numbers after the Serial Number: 10063158 0908
It's a UK model
In the best tradition of tinkering I've pulled it apart and there are two boards. The PSU/Inverter board and mainboard.
PSU board is marked as 171PS15-4 V2 080409 - it's clean with no scorch or leakage marks - as is the mainboard. Anyhow, I have looked at the good/bad caps list and through the TV repairs threads and looking at the make of caps on the PSU board (and the age of the TV) I figured this is probably a good place to start as while none are damaged or bulging (and none appear to be open/short circuit) only one (Samxon) appears on the good list. Two if you count the Chang Primary(?) as well.
The others are HEC apart from two EPCOS rated at 85C perhaps due to size? The EPCOS and have a lower resistance (800K not 2-3 M ohms) if that has any bearing.
If recapping is a good starting point, I'm thinking it would be best to recap the board with 105C caps all over (why would you leave 85C caps above the heatsink anyway?!)
So if I'm correct and recapping is a good starting place, I'd appreciate your views on these as a selection
EPCOS B41827 2200uF 10v
Replace with:
Rubycon 10YXJ2200M10X20 2200uF/10v 1400mA Ripple (105C)
HEC ZT105CX0C - 1000uF / 25v and
SAMXON KM(M) Y5A -1000uF /25v
Replace with
Panasonic EEUFM1E102 - 1000uF 25v 2600mA ripple (ESR 18M Ohm?)
or
Nichicon UPW1E102MHD - 1000uF 25v 1660mA ripple - (ESR 38M ohm?)
or
NIC NRSZ102M25V12.5X20F - 1000uF 25v 1600mA ripple (ESR 40M ohm)
HEC 33uF 50V
Replace with
Nichicon UPS1H330MED - 33uF / 50V (250mA Ripple)
or
Panasonic EEUFC1H330 - 33uF / 50V (ESR 600M ohm) 260mA ripple
Chang CD295 68uF 400V 25/105/21
Replace with
Nichicon LGJ2G680MELZ20 - 68uF 400V (620mA ripple)
Note: The existing caps (in the group shot) are all 10mm dia and two are really tight - I'm hoping I can squeeze one in as a 12.5mm without getting too 'creative' as I'm also limited for height - there is about 6-7mm to the case with the present 20mm caps. Any issues from the longer leads if it needs to be 'pursuaded'?
Thanks for reading this far through my ramblings - looking forward to your words of wisdom
This is my first mission and having done some reading here I thought I'd ask a few questions before diving in with my soldering iron (circa 1980!)
My son's TV, a 'budget' model is around four or five years old (from memory and all the 08 and 09 numbers I keep seeing on the inside) and has what looks like the "2 seconds to black" symptoms:
Power on and the standby light illuminates, power on from remote and there is a pause and then the backlights flash (as in flashbulb if you're old enough to remember those) then the standby light comes back on and the flash/off cycles. I don't see any picture at any point, even with a torch.
TV details
Make: Bush (I've seen it may also be listed as ALBA?)
Model: LCD2280F1080P
other numbers after the Serial Number: 10063158 0908
It's a UK model
In the best tradition of tinkering I've pulled it apart and there are two boards. The PSU/Inverter board and mainboard.
PSU board is marked as 171PS15-4 V2 080409 - it's clean with no scorch or leakage marks - as is the mainboard. Anyhow, I have looked at the good/bad caps list and through the TV repairs threads and looking at the make of caps on the PSU board (and the age of the TV) I figured this is probably a good place to start as while none are damaged or bulging (and none appear to be open/short circuit) only one (Samxon) appears on the good list. Two if you count the Chang Primary(?) as well.
The others are HEC apart from two EPCOS rated at 85C perhaps due to size? The EPCOS and have a lower resistance (800K not 2-3 M ohms) if that has any bearing.
If recapping is a good starting point, I'm thinking it would be best to recap the board with 105C caps all over (why would you leave 85C caps above the heatsink anyway?!)
So if I'm correct and recapping is a good starting place, I'd appreciate your views on these as a selection
EPCOS B41827 2200uF 10v
Replace with:
Rubycon 10YXJ2200M10X20 2200uF/10v 1400mA Ripple (105C)
HEC ZT105CX0C - 1000uF / 25v and
SAMXON KM(M) Y5A -1000uF /25v
Replace with
Panasonic EEUFM1E102 - 1000uF 25v 2600mA ripple (ESR 18M Ohm?)
or
Nichicon UPW1E102MHD - 1000uF 25v 1660mA ripple - (ESR 38M ohm?)
or
NIC NRSZ102M25V12.5X20F - 1000uF 25v 1600mA ripple (ESR 40M ohm)
HEC 33uF 50V
Replace with
Nichicon UPS1H330MED - 33uF / 50V (250mA Ripple)
or
Panasonic EEUFC1H330 - 33uF / 50V (ESR 600M ohm) 260mA ripple
Chang CD295 68uF 400V 25/105/21
Replace with
Nichicon LGJ2G680MELZ20 - 68uF 400V (620mA ripple)
Note: The existing caps (in the group shot) are all 10mm dia and two are really tight - I'm hoping I can squeeze one in as a 12.5mm without getting too 'creative' as I'm also limited for height - there is about 6-7mm to the case with the present 20mm caps. Any issues from the longer leads if it needs to be 'pursuaded'?
Thanks for reading this far through my ramblings - looking forward to your words of wisdom
Attached Files
I've not found the original part but can anyone confirm it's a 2.2nF? Don't think there's much doubt about the 3Kv rating 
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